Headlamp Relays for Canadian Trucks
#16
Registered User
#17
Registered User
Other then that...it all goes into the misc wiring box.
#18
Registered User
if you want to keep the daytime running light working properly you could use a solid state relay. you could probably get a couple cheap off some dodge grand caravans at a auto recycler unless your willing to pay the $40 or so that they are new. they would work great for this and would allow you dim your lights if you set it up to do so.
#21
My truck had the snow plow plug on it, lucky me. It was attached to the base of the hood release. The wires on the plug were red with a purple stripe and white with a purple stripe.
For the harness wiring I followed the Jim's original instructions and just mounted the relays on the passenger side behind the washer fluid tank and ran a longer power lead along the firewall.
For the harness wiring I followed the Jim's original instructions and just mounted the relays on the passenger side behind the washer fluid tank and ran a longer power lead along the firewall.
#22
Registered User
My truck had the snow plow plug on it, lucky me. It was attached to the base of the hood release. The wires on the plug were red with a purple stripe and white with a purple stripe.
For the harness wiring I followed the Jim's original instructions and just mounted the relays on the passenger side behind the washer fluid tank and ran a longer power lead along the firewall.
For the harness wiring I followed the Jim's original instructions and just mounted the relays on the passenger side behind the washer fluid tank and ran a longer power lead along the firewall.
#24
Registered User
I was under the impression that the plug you posted a pic of, and the one I made reference too, was for the ABS diagnostics?
If I was wrong, and the wiring can be hooked up there...then I'll be a happy camper!
So you wired into that, and the system works properly. Low beams, high beams, and DRL?
Please let me know how your drive up the Coq go. Have a safe trip.
If I was wrong, and the wiring can be hooked up there...then I'll be a happy camper!
So you wired into that, and the system works properly. Low beams, high beams, and DRL?
Please let me know how your drive up the Coq go. Have a safe trip.
#25
It may be, I thought the ABS plg was in the glove box though, as my ABS and brake lights came on next time I started the truck but I had just bled the brakes.
The DLRs came on without the trigger wires hooked up under the dash.
I ran the DRLs for 5 hours, lows for 4 and highs for 1 (continuously) and had now problems.
Original I had the it wired with the diode so both the high and low could be on but that caused the lights to flicker.
I am going to look under the dash again today to find the L-3 and L-4 wires.
I will post a drawing of what I have hooked up tommorrow.
The DLRs came on without the trigger wires hooked up under the dash.
I ran the DRLs for 5 hours, lows for 4 and highs for 1 (continuously) and had now problems.
Original I had the it wired with the diode so both the high and low could be on but that caused the lights to flicker.
I am going to look under the dash again today to find the L-3 and L-4 wires.
I will post a drawing of what I have hooked up tommorrow.
#26
Administrator
Thread Starter
Again guys, this is what you need to do,
If the connector was not installed then all you need to do is to locate an accessible section of L-3 14-RED and L-4 16-VT wire above the steering column and then cut them, then I would terminate the switch (power) side using insulated Female Spade Terminals .
If you look at the diagram above and below the dimmer switch you will see what look like a terminal in a heavy black rectangle numbered 5, 6 and 13, these represent the cavity number on the bulkhead connector, you should be able to pick off the L-3 14-RED and L-4 16-VT wires somewhere between the bulkhead connector and the steering column connector.
These should be somewhere near the base of the steering column and the bulkhead connector.
When installing the terminals I would strip and tin the stranded wires using good solder first and then crimp the terminals to them using a good T&B crimper or equivalent.
Then the 2 wires connected to the Low Beam and the High Beam relays would terminate with insulated Male Spade connectors and simply plug into the mating connectors you just installed leading to the switch.
If you ever had a relay fail you could always reconnect the 2 wires and plug the headlamps back into the factory sockets and be on your way with headlights again.
You could either use spade terminals or crimp/solder and shrink tube in a flat 2-pole molded connector, (get 2 of them) you could order from Amazon but make sure to get one that has at least 14-gauge wire.
This all might sound complicated but really it is not.
Mr. Never2much..
(quote)
My truck had the snow plow plug on it, lucky me. It was attached to the base of the hood release. The wires on the plug were red with a purple stripe and white with a purple stripe.
I think that you have connected to the ROLLS TEST CONNECTOR a factory diagnostic port for the RWAL system.
If you have the Snow Plow Lighting connector it will need to be disconnected and the trigger wires connected to the hot side with the opposite side left hanging.
The connector will be near the base of the steering column and near the bulkhead connector.
It appears this connector only came on the 1989, 90, 91 in 1991.5 the connectors changed somewhat but the wire colors remain the same.
If possible I would like to see some pictures of the later harness and steering column.
Jim
If the connector was not installed then all you need to do is to locate an accessible section of L-3 14-RED and L-4 16-VT wire above the steering column and then cut them, then I would terminate the switch (power) side using insulated Female Spade Terminals .
If you look at the diagram above and below the dimmer switch you will see what look like a terminal in a heavy black rectangle numbered 5, 6 and 13, these represent the cavity number on the bulkhead connector, you should be able to pick off the L-3 14-RED and L-4 16-VT wires somewhere between the bulkhead connector and the steering column connector.
These should be somewhere near the base of the steering column and the bulkhead connector.
When installing the terminals I would strip and tin the stranded wires using good solder first and then crimp the terminals to them using a good T&B crimper or equivalent.
Then the 2 wires connected to the Low Beam and the High Beam relays would terminate with insulated Male Spade connectors and simply plug into the mating connectors you just installed leading to the switch.
If you ever had a relay fail you could always reconnect the 2 wires and plug the headlamps back into the factory sockets and be on your way with headlights again.
You could either use spade terminals or crimp/solder and shrink tube in a flat 2-pole molded connector, (get 2 of them) you could order from Amazon but make sure to get one that has at least 14-gauge wire.
This all might sound complicated but really it is not.
Mr. Never2much..
(quote)
My truck had the snow plow plug on it, lucky me. It was attached to the base of the hood release. The wires on the plug were red with a purple stripe and white with a purple stripe.
I think that you have connected to the ROLLS TEST CONNECTOR a factory diagnostic port for the RWAL system.
If you have the Snow Plow Lighting connector it will need to be disconnected and the trigger wires connected to the hot side with the opposite side left hanging.
The connector will be near the base of the steering column and near the bulkhead connector.
It appears this connector only came on the 1989, 90, 91 in 1991.5 the connectors changed somewhat but the wire colors remain the same.
If possible I would like to see some pictures of the later harness and steering column.
Jim
#27
Administrator
Thread Starter
It may be, I thought the ABS plg was in the glove box though, as my ABS and brake lights came on next time I started the truck but I had just bled the brakes.
The DLRs came on without the trigger wires hooked up under the dash.
If the relays are connected properly this is correct.
I ran the DRLs for 5 hours, lows for 4 and highs for 1 (continuously) and had now problems.
Original I had the it wired with the diode so both the high and low could be on but that caused the lights to flicker.
I am going to look under the dash again today to find the L-3 and L-4 wires.
I will post a drawing of what I have hooked up tommorrow.
The DLRs came on without the trigger wires hooked up under the dash.
If the relays are connected properly this is correct.
I ran the DRLs for 5 hours, lows for 4 and highs for 1 (continuously) and had now problems.
Original I had the it wired with the diode so both the high and low could be on but that caused the lights to flicker.
I am going to look under the dash again today to find the L-3 and L-4 wires.
I will post a drawing of what I have hooked up tommorrow.
For the Canadian trucks you must use and correct diagram with the relays connected backward with the lights to Term #30 or this will not work properly.
I will show you how to connect the diode, it must be done at the relay, not from the headlamp or the relays will chatter and the lights will flicker with the headlamps turned off.
You need to find the correct pair of wires.
Jim
#28
I located the wires (violet with white tracer and red with orange tracer) on the steering column. I am going to splice in the trigger wires once I pick up some more connectors.
I will take pictures of the harness pre and post install.
I think it was just a bad connection at the diode, I am just going to take it out as the lights were plenty bright.
I will take pictures of the harness pre and post install.
I think it was just a bad connection at the diode, I am just going to take it out as the lights were plenty bright.
#29
Registered User
Hello Jim...I'm working on my harness right now, and have a question.
The diagram you posted shows a ground off the main RH side headlight wiring connector. Where you connect the new harness to the OEM plug. Is it necessary to add this extra ground?
Your Non-DRL (USA) wiring system does not have this additional ground. So I was wondering if the DRL required this additional ground for some reason.
The diagram you posted shows a ground off the main RH side headlight wiring connector. Where you connect the new harness to the OEM plug. Is it necessary to add this extra ground?
Your Non-DRL (USA) wiring system does not have this additional ground. So I was wondering if the DRL required this additional ground for some reason.
#30
Administrator
Thread Starter
Hello Jim...I'm working on my harness right now, and have a question.
The diagram you posted shows a ground off the main RH side headlight wiring connector. Where you connect the new harness to the OEM plug. Is it necessary to add this extra ground?
Your Non-DRL (USA) wiring system does not have this additional ground. So I was wondering if the DRL required this additional ground for some reason.
The diagram you posted shows a ground off the main RH side headlight wiring connector. Where you connect the new harness to the OEM plug. Is it necessary to add this extra ground?
Your Non-DRL (USA) wiring system does not have this additional ground. So I was wondering if the DRL required this additional ground for some reason.
I think it should work without it, I think I was just showing all of the headlamp ground connections.
As long as the Low/High DRL signal from the module to the relay are intact and the headlamps are grounded they should work .
Jim