pulltilbroke

That sucks

Last one I did I noticed the Made in China on it

Are you using the 3283339 gasket

__________________
90 W250 reg cab, Modified knuder valve, reversed reciprocting dinglearm adjusted, High volume flux capacitor, A clutch and a hitch

Coming soon
Who Knows??
Stackless again
July 2008 TOM
INTERCOOLER, YEAH WE FINALY GOT A STINKIN INTERCOOLR


The old mans ride.
91d350 n/ic, getrag,D80 stock afc cone set deep,soon to be intercooled

JQmile

Dang, you guys are making me glad I did studs and orings on mine. So the infamous ring test actually works?

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1989 D250 2wd New Era 6x16's, 3200 spring, Goerend converter, J&H Performance 727 trans, BHAF, 4-inch downpipe and exhaust, DennyT fuel pin, ported, o-ringed and ARP studded head, external wastegate, 62/65/14 S300 w/internal gate, three stage nitrous. New dyno numbers soon! Old numbers 448/842.

pulltilbroke

Sure does, I believe it is in the FSM or one of the Cummins books

My gasket isn't technicly "blown" yet its just leakin a little coolant down the side of the block again. No compression in the cooling system and no mixing fluids yet. It didn't leak at all on my way home from work tonight, I also didn't push it much past 20 psi.

Will have a gasket in hand on friday and we'll Tear into it on Saturday.

Might have to time myself and see if I can do it start to finish in 3 hours

BC847

If memory serves me correct, I replaced my first head gasket when mine started leaking antifreeze right there around that forward/left coolant passage.




Bummer.

__________________
David

Original owner of a 1993 W250 CC. DTR October 2007 Truck Of The Month.
Forest Green with a bunch of crap bolted to it.
447/822 #2
13.03 @ 101 Coastal Plains 11/29/09


I can't help thinking that this would be a better world if everyone would listen to me.
-- Lucy Van Pelt

FOLDING FOR OUR FUTURE (Link) Includes music by Jewel

krh

On the bright side i bet your getting really quick at swapping your head out.

__________________
05 2500 long box crew cab
fresh rebuilt engine with stage 2 colt cam, ddp 50 horse nozzles, headstuds and isspro gauges
A whopping 340 horse and 840 pounds. Got a ways to go...
Have tools will travel

draginbottom

I just replaced my gasket last weekend because it was leaking out of the front right corner by the thermostat housing. Started at 8:00 in the morning and was done by 12:30. Gotta love these old trucks.

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92 w250 extended cab, 13" con-o SBC, 3200 spring, old smoky pin ordered. . Espar diesel heater.

pulltilbroke

BC Its kinda funny mine has never leaked a drop there. Mine always starts leakin on the right side towards the back, except the original, it blew one of the sealing rings and was pressurizing the cooling system with compression and blowing hoses off

krh, yeah i am gettin pretty quick at changin a gasket, the first one I did took 12 hours start to finish, the last one took 5 hours IIRC and I'm gonna try to get this one done in under 4. I usually take a few smoke breaks and a break for dinner

BC847

Head studs make a gasket change MUCH longer. VERY much longer if you torque them like I do.

pulltilbroke

You got a super special torque procedure

BC847

In the typical spiral pattern:

- Liberally apply ARP assembly lube to the stud threads, both sides of the washer, and the bottom and inside of the nuts.
- Pull them up to 30ft/lbs.
- Then go back and be sure they are all at 30ft/lbs.
- Pull them up to 60ft/lbs.
- Then go back and be sure they are all at 60ft/lbs.
- Pull them up to 100ft/lbs.
- Then go back and be sure they are all at 100ft/lbs.
- Gently run the engine for thirty minutes once it's at operating temp and let it cool over night.

Now, using a digital torque wrench that has the audible tone that beeps when you're 5ft/lbs from your target, and goes to a steady tone when you're at your target . . . .

- Eat some Wheaties.
- Pull them up to 105ft/lbs. When you slowly pull them to 105 and hold the torque there, you'll find that the nut will slowly creep on around. You may pull at 105 for a full minute or more and see the nut come around almost a quarter turn. Do them all like this.
- Let things rest for 30 minutes.
- Pull them up to 110ft/lbs just like you did before, holding the 110ft/lb pull for as long as it takes for the nut to come around and finally settle on 110ft/lbs torque. Do the rest like that.

With the digital torque wrench that has the tone feature, you can lean into the pull and not have to look and the digital display to see the numbers. Just pull till you hear the beeping (meaning you're with in 5ft/lbs of your target). Keep pulling till the beeping turns into a solid tone indicating you're finally at your target.

- Keep pulling them up in 5ft/lb increments as above, letting them rest 30 minutes between pulls, till you reach your final target (125ft/lbs for my A1 12mm's).


With that, put it all back together, take it out, and once the engine is at its normal operating temp, stomp the pedal and flog the crap out of it.


- No retorques required.


NOTE!: A standard "Click Type" torque wrench will not allow you to pull them up to the precision as explained above.

pulltilbroke

I usually go 50,70,90,110,120,125,130 checking between each tq jump

Would your procedure be beneficial even though I'm still running stock bolts?

I also don't have a super high tech digital tq wrench either.

NO_SPRK

dang thats a fancy way to do it! how much does a torque wrench like that cost

__________________
91.0 W350 SRW LE. 727 3.54s, Dana 80 LSD, 265/75R16E, 366 spring, THIN pin, pump maxed, what starwheel? timing bumped, BHAF, 3.5" straight pipe, rear bagged, Isspro gauges, Hella H4s, Borgeson shaft.... 5speed swap in progress

'87 Toyota 4runner SR5 22re 5-spd

BC847

In my application, I'm dealing with an O-ringed head fastened with studs. That method depicted above allows the O-rings to uniformly "Crush" into the fire-rings of the head-gasket. Further, it allows the studs to stretch to their design working rating so as to arrive at the expected system clamping force.

I couldn't say if it'd be of any benefit with stock head-bolts, with or without O-rings. The voices in my head say it should work the same way.

pulltilbroke

Whats the story on this tq wrench ya got?

BC847

These folks: www.ktoolinternational.com


This wrench: http://www.ktoolinternational.com/KT...x?pt=KTI-72132