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#1
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head retorqe
what r ur guys thoughts about retourqing the head?? when i first put the motor in 200miles later i lost the head gasket. and i really dont want to loose this one (tired of pulling the head) thank you in advance
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1996 Dodge 3500 club cab 4x4 NV4500 1 3/8" input shaft, 3250 south bend dual disc clutch. current motor- 1995 stock other than free 3k gsk, gutted afc, #0 fuel plate Race motor-Cummins bored .020 over marine pistons and marine 370 injectors HX50 street cam 191 delivery valves 5000rpm gsk#0 fuel plate BFAF air filter twin 496hp 867lb. ft torque (6 melted pistons:() 1999 Chevy K2500 6.5L TD NV4500 Member of Michigan Oil Burners club |
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#2
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Torque cold to specs, let sit overnight. Loosen one at a time and retorque with lube. Do all over again a second time. The next day (3rd day since first torque) drive the truck and get it hot and do a hot retorque to specs. Don't ever, ever get on the pedal until the truck is up to operating temp (160 deg +).
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1989 D250 2wd New Era 6x16's, 3200 spring, Goerend converter, J&H Performance 727 trans, BHAF, 4-inch downpipe and exhaust, DennyT fuel pin, ported, o-ringed and ARP studded head, external wastegate, 62/65/14 S300 w/internal gate, three stage nitrous. New dyno numbers soon! Old numbers 448/842. |
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#3
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I torqued mine to Cummins specs. No retorque required.
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97 3500, 5-speed, lightly bombed 700+k miles (GETTING CLOSE TO 3/4 MILLION MILES!!) |
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#4
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retorquing the head
I cleaned up the bolts and lube them and torqued them one at a time to 66/89 ft lbs and then I used a torque wrench with an max torque needle on it and found out after after turning 6 of them to 90° degrees that the torque reading was between 125-130 Ft lbs. so then I torqued them all to 125.
Why I retorqued the head was because the antifreeze was slightly leaking out of the front of the engine. I had just check the valve clearances and found out that where no 1 cyl was right on before- the valves tightend up .002. The bolts seemed loose on that cyl when loosened them so I hope this clears up this seep. So does 125 ftlbs seems to be the right torque?
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1996 Monaco-5.9L- 12mm stock exhaust housing- stock plate modified, Pyrometer, 4"x 20" test muffler, boost adjusted to 32 psi, DDP-1 injectors, ATS 2 piece exhaust manifold, 3GSK |
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#5
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i also did a little test with that additional 90deg and found it to being around 130 lbs so thats where i put em to being that the bolts around #5 and 6 r difficult to do the degree thing....and taking one bolt out and then retorquing it isnt really making sence to me.
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1996 Dodge 3500 club cab 4x4 NV4500 1 3/8" input shaft, 3250 south bend dual disc clutch. current motor- 1995 stock other than free 3k gsk, gutted afc, #0 fuel plate Race motor-Cummins bored .020 over marine pistons and marine 370 injectors HX50 street cam 191 delivery valves 5000rpm gsk#0 fuel plate BFAF air filter twin 496hp 867lb. ft torque (6 melted pistons:() 1999 Chevy K2500 6.5L TD NV4500 Member of Michigan Oil Burners club |
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#6
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i pulled mine out 1 at a time, cleaned them really well, put molly grease on threads and on the head of the bolt where it contacts the head, and torqued to 135 lbs. i hit 50psi every day, and sometimes more when im not paying to much attention, been like this for the last 20k miles, and still on the stock gasket @ 200k miles
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98 12v 5spd,ddp 90's,twins 62/68/13 over 75mm s400,stage2 water/meth,16.5* timing,4gsk,"custom" plate & AFC,fass fuel,2095 plug,60# springs,afe stg.2, 5" turbo back,John Deere DV's(originally v10, converted w/94 doner) pensacola injectors in the trash can. 75 power wagon, 1st. gen, getrag, 3.2gsk,DDP 80's, twin turbos, stg.2 water/meth,custom intercooler and 3in piping,5" turbo back in to twin auzzie cuts,tweaked pump,arp studs,12in lift, rear triangulated 4 link w/big rig air bags |
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