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#1 | ||
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Registered User
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Gosh Darn Fuel Filter!
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89 D250 |
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#2 |
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DTR Online Store/Admin
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They are indeed in a bad place for access. I have to lay over the top of the engine to get my arm down in there to access the filter. Pre filling the filter with fuel and then getting it back on is always a real treat as well.
I used a small strap wrench to break the original filter loose, after that I haven't had a problem because I do not over tighten it.
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C.O.O. Diesel Truck Resource LLC To start a local chapter of DTR in your area email chapters@dieseltruckresource.com lellis@dieseltruckresource.com DTR Performance Shop Toll Free USA 1-877-375-1956 "We hang the petty thieves and appoint the great ones to public office." - Aesop |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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Every time I have to work in that area I start with a dread of getting at that filter. The first time was by far the worst. Eventually you get the knack of it. I used a belt-strap wrench to break it loose since the PO didnt put anything on the seal to lubricate it I bet. See if you can eyeball your hoses while youre in that area. Look for any cracks, especially on the hose that runs against the block and up near the injector pump. I think its the return line, not sure. I had to replace that last night, was not fun.
Maybe you can get the WIF sensor off the bottom and use a long extension on a socket wrench from underneath in a real pinch? I think mine had a hex on the bottom
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95 Ram 2500 220k mi, DTT auto w/ 4 disc converter, PS62/12, 4" exhaust, AFE filter, rebuilt 215 pump, TST AFC kit, #10 plate, 181 DV's, 7x.010 275BAR 148* Injectors, GS3K, 18*timing, Hamilton 210/181 cam, springs, pushrods. Hamilton 12v head, 625 studs, orings, snow water/meth Dont blame me, I supported Ron Paul Toute nation a le gouvernement qu’elle mérite |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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Prime-Loc makes a nice relocation kit for it. A nice shiney bracket and a spin-on filter.
Randy
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'99 2500 4x2 5 speed 3.54 OPEN 235/85R16 Michelin LTX M/S, 174,000 miles, Topper, Autometer Ultra-lite Boost, Pyro, BHAF w/insulated box, muffler gone. Van Aaken, Holley Black, custom -8 lines and filter (factory mess gone),13" Con FE, BB pilot bearing, Red Tops, Trans Filter '97 2500 4X4 5 speed original clutch (it will slip, Con O in work), 3.54LSD,135,000 miles, QC LWB, Banks Power Pack, Maxxis Mudders 315/75R16, Thuren track bar, KDP MIA, Timing @ 16.5, 5th gear gone for now. |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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Whats the price for one of them Prime-Loc systems? I just said to heck with it a minute ago and just left the old filter on it for now. I'll fight with it once I can find a relocation kit for it!
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Austin, TX, Toronto, ON
Posts: 1,488
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yep some people have never ever changed their fuel filter on these trucks...just take ur time getting the loosener thinggy under it ...you'll have maybe a max of 3 inches to pull on it and get r done!..wuss!
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SOLD: 1995 CTD 2500, 4x4, long box, ext. cab, BLUE, 3.5 rear, 47RH, 363 000 km, WAAG bush guard, 285/75/16 tires 3K GSK homemade #10 plate BHAF silencer ring MIA wastegate blocked 5" stacks 15.5* timing TC lock-up switch |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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Try this...
Check out this link: http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/fil...uel_filter.htm
It helped me out this weekend. It's actually not too difficult. I also disconnected my dipstick and was able to shove it over enough to make some room. Ensure you disconnect the sensor first, and don't trap the wires under the filter wrench! Drain as much fuel as you can out of the filter using the plunger on the bottom. It will take some tubing running from the plunger opening into a small metal can (I used a small jelly jar, all I had...) This kept my filter swap clean! My filter was a bear to remove, too, but I used a standard oil filter wrench without the 90 bend (again, all I had). I could only turn the filter about 1/4 inch each twist, but it loosened it enough for me to then use my hands. I lubed the new filter with clean diesel, pre-filled the filter to about half full so as not to spill when putting it on, shimmied it in there and put it on! OH, I also used a step stool and leaned over the fender from the driver's side. No problem. It just takes patience, but it's a bit of a struggle to get to the first time. Last edited by ride_a_hd; 02-22-2006 at 02:30 PM.. Reason: addition |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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You guys just don't know the trick, makes it easier than a Prime-Loc.
On pre '97 trucks with vacuum assist brakes remove the two 14mm nuts that hold the master cylinder to the brake booster. Although it doesn't look like it the whole unit will then easily pull toward the driver's side giving you a ton of room. With this method I find the hardest part disconnecting the WIF connector. After I showed this trick to a few folks with Prime-Locs they've removed them. Prime-Locs are constantly getting in the way when you want to do some tweaking on the injection pump.
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Bill '95 2500 4x4 auto '95 3500 5 speed flatbed hauler stock for one day |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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I remembered that tip when I went in to change my leaking fuel line.. but when I put a wrench on the brake master bolts and looked at all the rust on the lines going down from it, I didnt want to take a chance on flexing them and cracking a line =(
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#10 |
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Registered User
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Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey...
but just remember it's from the heads up view. If you want to have some real fun, tighten the filter a half a turn with a oil filter wrench before you try turning it to the left...
Then if you want to ice that cake you cross thread the WIF sensor so it will not seat at all. But I'm not taking full credit for that one. I think I'll share it with that engineer that thought about 1/4 inch of large plastic thread was enough for the sharp threads of a new filter, probably worked on the location of the unit too. Well I did invented (I'm sure someone else had done it before but I didn't read it first so it's an invention in my little world) a way to prevent/fix crossthreading this puppy. Put it on without the huge rubber O-ring (no pressure on the threads.) Making sure it's threaded properly and then back it out enough to snap the O-ring over the back of the sensor and tighten it down.
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2005 Dodge 2500 Heavy Duty Quad Cab Long bed Auto 4X4, new to me at 79K.3.73, Smarty Jr. set on program 3 @ 75%, Mopar 53034249AA air filter, 285/75 Toyo Open Country MT's with Centramatics Balancers, Donaldson M120100 no cat. Dee Zee Black FX Series Running Boards, Wade Ribbed Bed Rail Caps, Ultra-Plush Pile Replacement Carpet from Stock Interiors, Katzkin Leather Seat Covers. |
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