winkdemon

it's not really the dealerships felt , bad design is what it is , lots of guys have problems with them . but still sucks

__________________
1975 VE 4X4 NV4500, awaiting twin's amd p-pump
1995 AUTO 4X4 waiting for trany
all work no play for a few months
ROB WINKWORTH IS THE REAL NAME

Mike Holmen

krh, I do have an 03 HO short block available. The engine need to ovehauled, but if you need a block. The trick is to find the pistons that will take the abuse. Funny thing is the older stuff seems to take the abuse more easily. I've done enough bad stuff to mine and its keeps on taking it. Its been hard to justify upgrading to a new ride just because of that.

Just had a brain fart, is the electronic stuff working. the stuff that fires the electronic injectors? There are two banks of circuits (man I'm full of techo today). You said that the injectors are fine? To me you have a few cylinders not working at all. Even broken mechanical stuff should have some combustion (compression), electrical stuff just stops working. At 205 deg's F, that's nothing. Have you done a compression test? I had a cracked head once, my truck still made power, not much power, but still ran ok. A bad cylinder (piston) should be making tons of noise and if its that bad, it wouldn't run.

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02 sport QC, SB, 3/4 4X4 DDP stg 3 sticks, back to single little tiny turbo GT3782R
-Kore Recon and a few DSS parts stuff on the front.
-Half worn out DTT Race tranny and the cruise control still works.
-2500 watts stereo, four amps and twelve speakers cranked to the limit

krh

I didnt do a compression test but Im sure something is wrong inside. Whole bottom of the truck is dripping with engine oil from blowby tube and I can turn the motor over easily by twisting the damper by hand. It was smoking before I killed it to. I was considering that was just the front injector harness just because of the sudden change but after I felt how easily it rolls over and saw what it was blowing out the filler theres no doubt in my mind.

As for southridge I know crap happens, I dont expect them to take every motor apart and do a compression test. My complaint is that within the week that i bought the truck i found it to burn oil so phoned them, told em it has no leaks and doesnt leave a mark on the ground after an hour of high idle. They told me to bring it in and they'd look at it. Took it in and came back the next day and they handed me a 340 dollar bill for changing the breather on top of the motor. I got them to lower it to about 170 but thats the lowest they would go. Didnt help at all of course so I phoned them back and told them and they said its just the first thing they do with that problem and they could try something else. So thats the last time Ive dealt with them. Throwing parts blindly at a diesel thats burning oil isnt going to solve anything. Once I get the block opened up Im going to phone them and let them know, see if i can get any sort of deal or credit for parts from them, but i doubt it. /rant

Ya those old ones seem nicer tho mike, i kinda wish i bought something like that. So much easier to keep running, less electrical crap. Course the grass always seems greener on the other side.

Ill let you guys know what happened inside on saturday evening. I got the motor out on the ground today and looked in the bottom but couldnt really see any issues from my quick glance, nothing in the pan either. talk to ya later.

__________________
05 2500 long box crew cab
fresh rebuilt engine with stage 2 colt cam, ddp 50 horse nozzles, headstuds and isspro gauges
A whopping 340 horse and 840 pounds. Got a ways to go...
Have tools will travel

StealthDiesel

If your engine is stock & depending on the mileage, wouldn't warranty be a factor?
I think the Cummins engine warranty is 5years/100 000km. And I think the Dodge powertrain warranty is 7years/160 000km,


My w/end just kinda freed up & I live in the SE & I'm a common rail kinda guy!

Where in where in the SE are you at? I wouldn't mind stopping by, meeting you & checking it out.

...Joe

__________________
2004.5 Dodge SB QC 2500 2wd Cummins 600/6spd manual/3.73 LSD
Silver "Stealth Diesel"

Autometer Phantoms: Pyro, boost, fuel & oil pressure, water temp.
Edge Juice/Attitude. Smarty. Glacier Diesel intake, fuel & filter system.
MBRP S.S. muffler. BD short shifter. Brakesmart tow controller.
BD exhaust brake. Pullrite 24k Superglide.

krh

Ill be in the patton industrial park. Its by glenmore and 84th, By klysen and singer hauling. Should be there around 10 on saturday. Just give me a shout and I can give you directions. Id also like to see your trucks set up. When I have money again I was thinking about a smarty.

As for warranty Im at about 205000 and couldnt afford the extended the dealership offered. Sure seems like a good deal now.

StealthDiesel

Thanks Kevin.. You working on it tomorrow nite too?

(Another Kevin on here is going to get confusing... just like all the "Jason's"!)

...Joe

krh

Im not sure. Writing my off road red seal tommorrow morning and its kinda looking like the class is gunna hit the bar after for a couple drinks so I don't think Ill be making it in.

As for to many kevins ill just take it on the chin and be known as cpt. awesome from now on.

Mike Holmen

When you crank over the engine, there is blow-by coming out the blow-by vent? I wonder if your injector is seating properly? Is the retainer bracket tight? You getting extra fluid in the crankcase? If the engine turns over that easy, man those rings must be compressed fully and seized fully into the piston. I can't see how that can happen. I've seen engines that been rusted/seized up, the pistons rings will stick and allow blow-by past the rings. If you busted up the ring lands on the piston, you will hear noise from the rings. Another brain fart, I wonder if you have a bent rod and the piston isn't coming up fully. Keep us in the loop on what you find, post some pics, if you can.

How long did this occur after buying the truck? It’s odd that a dealer would have such a high miler sitting on the lot. Most are dumped at actions, just because of the liability issues.

krh

The entire belly of the truck is dripping oil from the blowby vent, and that was before I did anything with the injectors. I also ran it with the valve cover off and there were no compression leaks around the injectors. Im baffled as to why this happened but theres no denying the kind of blowby I saw and how easily the motor rolls over. I dont have a camera but i may be able to borrow one. Ill let you guys know tommorrow what it looks like.

krh

well its ugly in there. Ive got light scoring in 12356, broken rings in 1256, bearing was getting ready to turn on #5 and did a little number on the crank. Number 1 bearing has a small score in it all the way around but the crank seems ok. Didnt get the crank out of the motor tho because i couldnt get the cam out by myself so I didnt get the front cover off so I dont know what my main bearings are like.

Can these cranks be ground down and oversized bearings purchased? How much over bore can this block take to get rid of my scoring? Looks like i only need something like 20 thou to get it all out.

Mike Holmen

Go to Moores industry machine on 33st and 32ave NE, they can have it machined up in three to four days. The trick is find somewhere that has cheap pistons for sale. Cummins is pricey stuff, you could try Harry at Peak.

Moores, don't sell any parts, but do industrial machining. I know that Peak sells pistons. I would buy the pistons prior to machining the block so each cylinder can be custom fit for each piston. Not like its gonna vary much, but I like things purfect. Parts is the pricey part. You should snap off a few pieces for us gearheads at home.

krh

I priced out a full piston set before i got into this and it was about 1400 bucks. Thts standard size tho, im guessing they want more for oversize. Im going to have to talk to moores about suggestions when i get it the rest of the way apart. I deal with them through the company for getting rods re chromed all the time but i never see the bill, I've heard they over charge just because they usually deal with industrial. Im going to try calling around abit see what i can find. Whos this peak guy? whats the full name of the company im not familiar with them. Unfortunately I don't have a camera but its not very exciting carnage, pretty standard stuff. I kinda caught it just before it started to get ugly.

as a side note i have never seen rods that look like these, were they cast it as one part and just snap the cap off.

StealthDiesel

Hi Kevin,

Are you working on your truck today? I plan to give you a call after lunch or so.... I live in Riverbend SE, very close to your shop.


My wife has our camera for the w/end but I can bring my cell phone to take some lesser quality pics if you don't mind.

The current Cummins rods are like all production rods these days. Powdered metal with cracked caps. I'm sure it's just a cheaper & simpler method of production.
All aftermarket rods are still forged and machined. One advantage to cracked caps is that there is no way to mix them up cuz they don't interchange..


Here is the Peak Diesel Performance website:

http://www.peakdieselperformance.com/home.html

Really good 1 one man operation in Langley/Vancouver B.C.
His prices for Cummins aftermarket stuff is as good as anyone with no hassle with U.S. shipping. Also note the prices are all in U.S. dollars.
Not sure if he carries Cummins pistons but worth a phone call.


...Joe

ccmckee

The Alberta Engine shop i posted has pistons and everything else for them as well. That's where Paul got all his inframe stuff for the FL when we did it.

__________________
'96 CC LB slt,auto,3:54's,100hp Maxsticks,3k gsk, afc modded,16*,62/70/13 Turbo,4"exhaust,bhaf, DSS, triple lock TC, rebuilt auto & diff,MBRP 4",3 pod pillar egt, boost, oil pres,ride rites frt & back w/ onboard air, lubetech through out, 437K km's 333hp 760 ft/lbs

StealthDiesel

So I spent some time with Kevin and his truck today...

His work shop is awesome. HD equipment & truck shop.
Nice truck. 2005 long bed QC blue Laramie full load, 4x4 auto, 200 000km's/120 000miles, in nice shape.

His engine is not so good. All pistons scored, all cylinders scored. Broken rings in the severely scored cylinders. The pistons are not cracked nor melted though.
Piston tops look fine other than some are very carboned up.
Several rod journals and rod bearings scored. Mains are perfect.
All cam lobes and lifters are fine. But the front cam bearing in the block shows copper all the way around. Normal?? Other cam journals in the block look fine.
Rockers are scored though.
He had his injectors tested previously & they were fine. His truck was burning a litre of oil every tank and tons of blowby.
Oil level was going down, not up.

No sludge or metals in the oil pan. Head looks fine. The valves haven't been removed yet but none are burnt nor sitting higher than the others.
The oil jets are fine, oil pump looks fine.
The head gasket was fine prior to yanking the engine.

His turbo is fine. Not loose, not burnt looking.

The truck looks stock, no velcro on the fuse box, stock untouched exhaust.
Goose neck hitch in the box. Still has the plastic intercooler in 1 piece.

Any thoughts. It doesn't look like it's been overfueled since the turbo looks fine. Perhaps it was overheated? Oil starvation????



Kevin will likely add more. I wasn't of much help because I'm still only one handed..

...Joe