manureman

I've had it! I give up! About ready to blow this dumb truck up!

Whew...Now that I've cooled off some. Here's my problem:


1996 12V 5 speed 4x4. It all started 6 months ago. Lost 5th gear nut. Took the thing apart to fix it. Tack welded the 5th gear nut on the shaft. Had batteries unhooked when I tacked it. Had a small crack in the transfer case that I had fixed by welding up. Put everything back together. Can't get it to start. Seems like it is cranking slow. No air heaters kicking on. Wait to start light glows very faintly all the time. Hooked up battery charger. Finally got it to start. No headlights (bulbs blew) no tach, no speedo, no a/c, no cruise, and no air heater. Checked all the fuses. replaced the 120A main fuse. Still the same. installed new Engine Speed sensor. Still the same. Took alternator off, bench tested at parts store. It was ok. Still the same. Looked for melted wires. None. Checked fuseable link to air heater - ok. Bought a used PCM. Still the same. (Engine never had check engine light or any codes at all). Took truck to mechanic. He had the truck for a few weeks. Ended up putting new alternator on , and external voltage regulator. Gage showed 14V charge. Speedo now working, but still no air heaters, a/c, tach, or cruise. Next day after I brought truck back from mechanic, batteries were real low and wouldn't start. Put the battery charger on again, still not enough power to turn over. Took batteries to parts store. One had a cracked terminal, replaced with new. Decided that maybe welding on the transfer case made vehicle speed sensor blow, so put a new one in. Put batteries back in, still no juice to start, just starter clicking. Put battery charger on again, still won't turn it over. Wait to start light still glowing faintly all the time, but heaters are not clicking on or cycling.

Now, any ideas? bad ground somewhere? Bad battery cables? I'm STUMPED!!! I'm ready to give up!!! Even the mechanic, who I know is pretty good gave up! I am getting 12 V to the PCM, but where should I check next? My wife thinks I'm nuts and I am starting to feel that way too! Please help me return to sanity!!!!!

WestTN

A lot of people think disconnecting the batteries helps avoid electronics problems. Actually, they are the only things in the truck capable of absorbing the electrical impulses from welding equipment that damage electronic components.

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2001 2500 White long bed Quad Cab Sport ETH/DEE All options except 4WD, CD changer and Auto trans. Didn't want those!
144,500miles. Replaced lift pump twice. Geno's big line kit. Also replaced left license bulb. . First set of Michelins lasted 97,681 miles.

Shovelhead

It sounds like you might have a ground cable issues.

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Ed Anderson
'99 3500 SPORT BlackClick for Picture GalleryIsspro EV gauges, Fuel Pressure{mechanical}
DTR Site Moderator

nickg

try hooking booster cables from the neg terminals to the engine block and one to the truck body, as a temp measure to see if it will start

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Nick

2001, 2500 Edge J/A Hot unlocked,Magna flow exhaust. HX35 Jammer II's. BHAF, Airdog 150,DSS,3rd gen Track Bar. Carli Suspension, 3rd gen Brake upgrade, transgo Shift Kit. Firestone AirBags May 07 297,000kms Dec/09 473,000kms RETIRED Military Mechanic (20yrs)

slowflyer2112

Shovelhead and nickg are correct! Check your ground cable connections.

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When all else fails step on it!!

2000QC, 4X4, D-25 springs, 3 on the Pillar, Installing Allison 2400 5speed, 99 heavy duty inverted T steering, BulletProof Track Bar, 4" exhaust Don M's 1.5's, Smarty, PS62-12 w/AFE intake installed, DT Radius arms (wow),Buckstop ft bumper and Rickson 19.5 wheels and tires, big brakes, Amsoil remote bypass filter system. (exhaust brake, custom rear bumper, traction bars, and a Quadzilla Adrenalin box soon)

Lil Dog

I would agree with the grounding issue. Welding to the tranny or engine is isolated from the frame and depending on the grounding, the ground cables took up alot of juice.

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97 2500 4X4 LWB CC SLT Laramie 5spd LSD 3.55.
Isspro EV's pyro/boost, #10 Plate, PEAK 3K GSK, AFC Spring, DDP III injectors, S300 Turbo, PEAK IC Boots, TAG III, South Bend 13-1.25" Con FE clutch, SCOTTY II-UNI, MBRP XP 4", KDP Tab, 16° Timing, SS DSS / 03TBK, Roda Deaco PAS. Espar D5WSC heater. B-Quiet sound deadening inside.
Dyno 09-2009 401 RWHP / 1050 Ft-lbs

'08 2500 4x4 MegaCab Laramie, 6.7, 68RFE, 3.73 LSD, S-67ME POD.

Alberta Chapter #5 Prez... PM me for details...

SIXSLUG

With all the mentioned problems it sounds like the circuit is incomplete, I third on the grounding suggestion. Keep posted.

Kurt

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Kurt

2001.5 2500 QC LB 4WD H.O. 6-SPD SLT Laramie Plus
Arctic White,3.54's, Camper/Tow, Stull SS Running Boards, A.R.E. Cab-Hi Canopy w/ SS Vanguard rack, Southbend clutch and hyd.,Power Service, BHAF/Heatshield, MBRP 4" TBE, FP Gauge, Femco E-Z Drainplug,DSS, Thuren Trac Bar, 2" leveling kit, P/H Tow Mirrors, new intank LP @80K, 95K miles.

Good judgment comes from experience, which often comes from bad judgment: W. Rogers

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rebal

First I would check all the grounds too. bat. eng.,bat. to frame.,bat.to body. and check for corroded connections. then I would have the PCM tested I have seen several ECM/PCMs toasted by welding on the truck when ever I have to weld I make the ground as close and clean as possible and I unplug the ECM/PCM once you have to buy them your sure to unplug them the next time

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1990 W250 bought new in Nov. 89 performance built 727 and torque converter , high miler 700 k heavly bombed kelderman air ride

2001 2500 HO 6spd 4x4, Engine brake , mad.ecm mach1.6s fass,SBC 4" turbo back exhaust BHAF fluid damper,ARP head studs, DSS, Fast cools.snow w/m, wife says trucks fast enough:( 335 hp/800 tq)

How many of your rights are you willing to give up before you feel totally safe ?Wake Up People vote EVERYONE OF THE BUMS OUT OF OFFICE!