bek

I'm trying to time the valve train on a plane old 1988 Chevy smallblock
I line up the cam and crank sprockets dot to dot. That should be Tdc#1. I just read an old post somewhere else that said the engine is actually on TDC#6 and you have to spin it 180 degrees to be on TDC#1. Then set your #1 valves and so forth. Its not like it's my first time. Am I getting senile? Steve

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rockcrawler304

Is the rotor pointing to number one cylinder? If so, you are on TDC

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cbrahs

if your cam dots are lined up you are on tdc#1. install the distributor so that the rotor is pointing to #1 like chad said above. You can use a timing light to get 0* by turning the key on in the run position and move the dist backand forth (small amounts) with the timing light trigger pulled, the light will flash. Tighted the dist a bit but still able to rotate but with increased force. start her up and do final timing. drive it like you stole it

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Mexstan

How about old AND senile?

If the distributor rotor is pointing to #1 cylinder and all the dots on the valve train line up, then you have to be on #1.
Check and see if both the inlet and exhaust valves on #1 cylinder have clearance (lash) in this position as neither valve should be opening on TDC

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cbrahs

not really. with a small block (or big block) and the oil pump being able to move with a screw driver to index the pump so the distributor engages cam gear, you can be anywhere in the 360 degree circle. It is suggested during assembly that the rotor point towards #1 to make life easier in the future when doing distributor servicing if needed.

Mexstan

I stand corrected. You are right. My excuse is that I presumed that the distributor had not been removed.

cbrahs

its all good Stan... I had to think there for a second too but re-read the OP and he had cam/crank gear dots lined up so I figured he had installed new cam or rebuilt motor.

Raspy

If the timing marks on the cam and crank are lined up, the #1 piston is at TDC between compression and power. The distributor is most likely at 0 or 180 out, but could be anywhere if the engine has been apart. If the distributor is in place and you are just doing the cam or timing set, make sure the rotor points to #1 wire. If the old cam was removed with the timing marks not lined up, it is probably best to just pull the distributor and re-install it in the new right place with the timing marks lined up on the cam and the rotor toward #1. Or trial and error the new cam in and out, and turned, until you get the marks all lined up and the rotor lined up.

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bek

This engine has been completely rebuilt with no distributor. Crankshaft mark set at 12 oclock and cam mark at 6 oclock lined up, #six cylinder will be at TDC. Rotate crank 360 degrees with crank marks at 12 oclock and cam at 12 oclock you will have #1 @TDC. I always thought the two marks together were TDC#1

cbrahs

no need to remove the cam to line up the rotor. long flat head screw driver in the distributor hole to turn the oil pump shaft. less stress on the cam and risk of gouging the cam journals and lobes.

Fronty Owner

ok, maybe im reading too much in this.
OP doesn't mention a few things.
has teh cam already been used with this motor? do you absolutely without a doubt that the cam gear is on the cam properly?
What parts were changed out to make you thing the valve train needs the timing adjusted?

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bek

everything was changed out. starting from scratch you take a 1988 four bolt main block put a crankshaft in it and a camshaft with some heads and pushrods and line up the dots what setting are you at? #6@TDC. Spin the crank 360 degrees and then you're at #1 TDC with the cam dot at 12 oclock. I dont give a d#@! about the distrbutor thats the easy part and its not even in yet!

bek

i'm just tryin' set the lash first.

pind

If it is a stock small block, such as a 350 / 5.7 with hydraulic lifters.

as long as you are using all stock parts, rockers/studs/etc.

Turn your adjuster nuts down until 3 threads are showing on the studs.


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