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#1 | ||
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Registered User
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Front / Rear end service.
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2005 Quad Cab 2500 4x4, Long box, Bright Silver, 275s, SRT Hood scoop, Nerfs, Quad Race Box. 4" Cold Air Intake - Home Made Last edited by Dynocon; 06-27-2012 at 07:25 PM.. Reason: wrong place, not sure how to move . |
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#2 |
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I change mine every 40000 miles. I think manual says 36.000 miles I believe.
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2010 SLT 4X4 CC LB. Deep Water Blue, H&S XRT Pro, Full Delete- downpipe,dpf,egr and egr cooler, tonneau cover, cabin filter mod, heavy duty rear bumper, 22.5 Alcoas with semi rubber and spray in bedliner.--Traded in 2007- 4X2 ST Regular Cab Dually, Grey, Diablosport, K&N Intake, Silencer ring removed, TS shift enhancer, straight pipe, rancho shocks, blacked out |
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#3 |
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There is no G. There is no G. Repeat after me, THERE IS NO G!
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Schedule B has it at 15k. I'm on this one but 15k is too short for my truck. Going to extend a bit.
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'06 QCSB 4x4 3.73 285/70 H2s 4040xl leveled HD CAI "AF" steering LineX 5100s Frontier Gear front replacement bumper GDP 2MK Custom Diesel brace |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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Manual says 15k or 30k depending on the use. I change the front at 30k and the rear at 15k. Hardly ever use the front but the rear gets a workout while towing.
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Papaduck 03 Dodge 3500 SLT, HO Cummins, 6 spd, 4x4, SRW, quad cab, short box, gauge on lift pump, oil pressure, boost, rail pressure and EGT, FASS 95 lift pump, Baldwin BF1212 fuel/water sep., Cat 1R0750 fuel filter, steering box stabilizer, 6.7L harmonic balancer 32 ft. 5er Carri-Lite Previous - 97 Dodge 2500 SLT, Cummins, Auto, 4x4, standard cab |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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CHanged out to Amsoil at 20k mi. Just did it again at 100k. Fluid looked pretty good. 15-30k is ridiculous IMO unless you're working the p!ss out of the truck.
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'07 Mega, SLT, 5.9, G56, 3.73, 4x4, Bullydog Triple dog, Southbend OFE clutch |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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how many qts does it take?
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2007 2500 SLT 5.9L 4X4 Bright Red Quad Cab Smarty "POD" Revo TNT-R tune on#9, Silence ring MIA, Big K&N drop in filter with LOTS of extra holes drilled in the stock air box, Full Exhaust turbo back, Sylvania Siliver Star Ultra's in "Head Lights & 9005's in Fog lights" and Sylvania Silver Star's in reverse lights & tag lights |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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AAM calls for 75w/90 GL-5 differential fluid. The rear 11.5 axle will take 122 oz. or 3.8 quarts and the front 9.25 will take 76 oz. or 2.375 quarts. Therefore,you will need 7 quarts.
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2003 - 2500 SLT 5.9 HO 4X4,48RE, Quad Cab Shortbed, Garnet Red Pearl, UnderCover bed cover and tool boxes, Quadzilla Commander, Michelin AT/2, Carli Suspension, Carli Torsion Sway Bar, Raptor fuel pump. 2001.5 - 2500 5.9 ST Quad Cab, 8ft bed, 47RE, White, ARE Cap, Fass, DiPricol fuel and boost gauges, Michelin AT/2. |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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Thx Dr.Dizzle.... My truck has 78k on it and I'm pretty sure it's never been changed & I've got five qts of royal purple 75w/90 so I'll do the rear tomorrow and then I'll pick up two more and do the front next weekend
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#9 |
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"How in the heck do I change the phrase in between my user name and avatar?"
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I used to haul 26k on a daily basis and I changed both diffs at 100k (for the first time) and it was still just as clear as the day it was put in at the factory. For the price of that synthetic oil, the recommended intervals would break the bank for a guy (like me) that hauls/hauled everyday and really cranked out the miles. I put 225k miles on my truck in less than 2 yrs....do the math!!!!
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Justin '03 QC 4x4 Dually Willy's Whistler Intake, Programmer, Flux 2's, Valair Ceramic Clutch, NV5600, AirDog 150, Di-Pricol Fuel Pres, Boost, Pyro... Isspro RP, oil pressure, Ride-Rite Bags, Top Gun 2" Spacers, Control Arms, and Track Bar, Majestic Turbo 62/65, Heater Treaters. "Life is tough.....it's even tougher when you're stupid" (John Wayne) No Guts...No Glory!!! Also, No Guts...No Digestion Of Food!!! |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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Diff lubricants are available at various price points. One standout is Mobil 75w/90 GL-5 , which can be found for 8.99 or so. I could see a product such as Royal Purple at 19.99 a burden on the finances. Keep in mind,however;a large percentage of the wear metals generated by an axle shed off during the first few thousand miles of operation during the axle break in period. Since filtration is not present, getting the wear particles out is beneficial in the long run.
Also, increased metallic particles present in the lubricant increase the oxidation rate of the lubricant and depletes the additive package at a faster rate as it tries to cope. Scheduled changes increase the potential life of the axle as well as increase the working life of the lubricant. If one plans on owning a vehicle for long time, or work it hard, it's certainly worth the investment. |
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#11 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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#12 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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#13 |
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Registered User
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How do I know which front/rear end I have? 9.25? 11.5? What do these mean & where do I find? Thanks for the help & sorry for the noobie question.
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2006 Quad Cab 2500 4x4 Auto Big Horn 100k mi Nitto 285/75/17s, 2009 Four Wheel Camper Parts replaced: Upgraded to 2008 steering (two tie rod ends warrantied),steering brace,Ball Joints,factory stereo died,leaky oil pan gasket,Seat Foam fail/replace,Batteries,Batt temp sensor failed,Recirc Door broke/upgrade,Idler pulley- failed,turn signal switch/arm failed, trans gov sensor/solenoid replace, Ujoints worn out,shocks to Bilstein, WWfluid sensor died, leaky heater hose-upgraded. |
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#14 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Might be on the options sticker in the glovebox or whereever it is, I forget. Or on the window sticker from the dealer. |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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Thanks Grit Dog. I checked the window sticker and it doesn't say the front diff. It does say 11.5 rear, and also says "Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle." What does this mean? It only cost the original owner $285 extra, so I can't imagine it being too fancy...
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