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#1 | ||
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Registered User
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Exhaust
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Matt [B]1999 Ram 2500 Fass Fuel System, 16x8 Cragar Wheels, 305 70 R16 Nitto Terra Grappler Tires, Skyjacker 9000 Nitro Shocks, ReadyLift 2" Leveling Kit, Edge Juice w/Attitude, Custom Cold Air Intake, Adjustible track bar. |
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#2 |
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if you weld galvinized steel it will omit toxic gasses. need well ventolated area and fans, or a re-breather for your hood
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#3 |
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Going to rust a little faster than Aluminized I think in an exhaust application (fence posts like chain link are galvanized for comparison), but 4.5" is great diameter- if you have the ability to bend it, why not.
Personally I'd make up a couple at the same time to have spare parts when it rusts out.
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'96 2500 Auto, Reg cab long bed, 4.10 posi, Fisher MM1 8' plow. 47re custom re-rebuilt, K&N Drop In, stock exhaust with Volant 4x4 SS Muffler, Posi-lok, Timbrens front, SS brake hard lines, SS trans lines. |
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#4 |
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cant bend that stuff, doesent work out it will crease, 4.5 exhaust would be cool tho just be carfull welding it the stuff if verry bad for you and can kill you man.
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#5 |
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Cyanide gas! That's what you get when you weld galvanized! Even if you clamp it together it will probably still burn off over time on the hot exhaust. Don't do it, buy the right stuff!
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1998 Ram 2500, 4X4, 12v, 5 spd, Quad Cab, Short Bed, 3.54 gears HE351VE, South Bend Con OFE, 6" stacks, cone filter, star wheel loosened, 100 plate, 4K GSK, KDP killed, leveling kit and 35s |
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#6 |
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Its a shame to let it go to waste, cause I got some pieces that are bent into 90 degree turns and everything! I can get a lot more of it too. But if I cant use it then there is no use getting more of it. Right now I got enough to do the entire truck I think.
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#7 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: THE ROCK - WEST COAST B.C.
Posts: 132
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4 inch aluminized is only 345 bucks off this site. installed in an hour and 4" is plenty sufficient for these engines. depends how much time and skill you have I guess, welding galv gasses not good. kit easy.....go with easy button
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98 2500 SLT laramie quad 12valve 4X4 150,000 miles, mostly towing & daily drivin, carter elec l/p, 4" factory, firestone ride rite bags, 35" yokohamas, 30mm chev brakes, MBRP 4" exhaust (thanks Lary), kool vues, timing 16* by PDR, DSS, Curt front receiver, autometer pillar (pyro trans & boost gauges), #10 plate, boost elbow 35lb's, 3k GSK, XRF balljoints & trackbar, kdp dead,steering solutions steering box. Canadian Merchant Service Guild |
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#8 |
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x2 I did my own to save money but its not worth it 345 is cheap when you figure you have to get manderal bent 4.5 pieces which are around 50-80 bucks a pop not cheap cant bend that pipe verry well
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#9 |
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I guess I'll find some other use for the pipe, thought about using the straight pieces for stacks but they would problably rust unless I had them powdercoated or something. Thanks Guys.
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#10 |
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i used the exact pipe you are talking about on my last truck. its honestly not that bad, just take breaks every so often if you decide to weld it up together. best way to do is be outside, thats what i did. just wear a face mask or something under the hood and you'll be fine if you take breaks. just be careful. either way you go is up to you. just throwin in my .02 because i had this kind of pipe before for exhaust. same story as you, they were just throwin it away
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2006 2500, 4x4, 48re, 5in. turbo back, homemade intake, silencer ring dead SOLD - 2001 2500, 4x4, NV5600, 3:55's, straight piped stock exhaust for now, silencer ring = glove box, 117K SOLD - 1996 2500, 4x4, NV4500, HX-40 downpipe to 4in exhaust, #100 plate, 370's, KDP Tabbed, silencer ring in glove box. |
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#11 | |
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Quote:
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#12 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
Here, LMGTFY ... http://www.sperkoengineering.com/htm...Galvanized.pdf |
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#13 |
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it worked well, didnt have any problems. i had the hx40 downpipe and just used an adapter to the 4.5 pipe. couldnt really tell a difference, just a little deeper sound than 4 in. i did not have any rust problems, it may also have to do with where i live but idk. maybe if you paint it, it would last longer since its protected
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#14 | |
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Quote:
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#15 |
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i had it setup for stacks, but im sure if you ran it back to behind the tire, it could work with a few bends. i do know that exhaust pipe ran straight back actually sits a few inches above the axle with out any bends, like 4 inches above it at the least. so i think it would be easy to fab up a system that goes over the axle with or without any bends over the axle. just gotta make sure that you make good hangars so it doesnt sit too close to the axle. hope that helps
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