93Fury

Thought maybe I glanced at one in the sticky a while back but I was wrong. I just wanted to compare what I have done with some others. Figured this would help give me an idea of what to do or what not to do when I do the A1000. So if anybody has pics or any other info on what they have done let me know. I like having things to compare to.

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'93 D350, reg cab, dually, PPE fuel pump, Aeromotive pre-pump and pre-IP filters, 1/2" to 3/8" fuel line, Hellman sump, HE351VGT w/g controlled, 5" exhaust, 5" intake, kdp tabbed, 1 tooth of timing, custom intake plate, electric fan, waiting to be put back together. maybe p-pump or go the distance and do a common rail. Thoughts?

'93 Dakota Sport, 2wd, 5spd, Magnum 318 swapped from 3.9L.

BearKiller

I run both a mechanical piston lift-pump AND a Carter electric.

The mechanical pump feeds the engine, while the electric pump is on stand-by in a SEPARATE by-pass line, protected by check-valves, which I can bring into play at the flip of a switch.

If I were to depend solely on an electric pump, I would install TWO in the same manner that I currently have the mechanical and electric.

I would never trust only one electric pump to always get me home.

I pre-wire standard 10-AWG two-prong pig-tails onto electric pumps, such that I can quickly connect or dis-connect them from power without having to cut and re-wire.

Power to each pump is via a relay that is 3-way controllable; the pump kicks ON with IGN-ON; a switch can make or break the IGN-ON power to the pump; a second switch over-rides IGN-OFF, such that the electric pump can be powered when the engine and IGN is OFF, such as when pre-priming the fuel-system, filling a new filter, or transferring fuel from the truck to another vehicle or receptacle.


All fittings are JIC/AN with swivels so that any repair or maintenance is quick and easy.


ALWAYS install a simple inline filter immediately AHEAD of every pump, mechanical or electric, such that any trash collects in the easily replaceable filter, rather than on the screen that is un-see-able and inside the pump, necessitating removal of the pump to clear the screen = not something you need to be doing in a panic at night in the pouring rain beside a busy interstate; ignore this bit of wisdom at your own peril as some dark night you will remember it.



Does any of this help ??

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LESSONS I HAVE LEARNED

Even in a bone-stock truck, a FUEL-PRESSURE-GAUGE is the first gauge you should install.
Splice an in-line fuel-filter AHEAD of the lift-pump and carry a few spares.
Blue MOPAR Voltage-Regulator = P3690731

#1 MY TRUCK = 1985 F-350, W/1989 Cummins, 5-sp. Getrag, Dana 70 3:55
#2 HER TRUCK = 1991.5 D-250, LE, I/C Cummins, auto
#3 SON'S TRUCK = 1990 W-250, Cummins, 5-sp. Getrag, 3:54
#4 TRUCK = 1991 D-350, LE, Cummins, 5-sp. Getrag, 4:10

soggy

I did a thread with some pictures, let me dig it up. Bgilbert answered some questions and gave some advice on how to set it up properly, I'd recommend asking him or jayers if you have questions.

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92 W250 VE Powered

13.31 @ 98.92

1993 D350 Tow Rig

soggy

Here you go, one is the install and the other is some other misc info, then there is one that Ramrod started with some good info in it.

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/d...m-t243007.html
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/d...ghlight=a-1000
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/d...ghlight=a-1000

93Fury

Yep, helps alot, thanks guys. I know some people get offended when others ask for info on their upgrades. I just like to be able to compare to see if I went wrong somewhere or if there is something better that could be done. Thanks again.