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  #1  
Old 11-04-2009, 11:23 AM
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Disappointed with dealer, no 3cyl. high idle

So took the truck in for a second time to get the 3 cylinder high idle enabled. I gave them the TSB printed out with it to help them this time. I got it back, let it sit all night in 10*f, not plugged in. Went out this morning, started it, sat for 5 minutes, no high idle. It had parking brake on, in neutral, etc, all the conditions listed met. Any ideas? I will give it some more trys though. Choke cable here I come.
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  #2  
Old 11-04-2009, 12:25 PM
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A few guys on here have installed 12v electric solenoids like from older cars with AC. Put it on a sw and you can bump the idle anytime.
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  #3  
Old 11-04-2009, 05:03 PM
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I beleive there is more to it than the programming on a manual trans. I know it took more on my 05.
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Old 11-04-2009, 05:22 PM
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Here's the criteria for the factory high-idle

Quote:
-----------------------------------------------
Once enabled, idle speed will slowly ramp up from 800 rpm to 1200 rpm when all of the following conditions are met:

1. Intake Manifold Temperature less than 0°C (32°F) and,
2. Coolant Temp is less than 60°C (140°F) and,
3. The Transmission is in Neutral or Park and,
4. The Service Brake pedal is not depressed and,
5. Throttle = 0% and,
6. Vehicle Speed = 0 mph

Additionally, if Intake Manifold Temperature (IMT) is less than -9°C (15°F), and all of the parameters above are met, three of the cylinders will be shut off upon reaching 1200 rpm, creating a slight change in engine sound which is normal. This allows the engine to create increased heat in the cooling system, allowing more rapid engine warm up and cab heating.

Both features will automatically disable when one of the following occurs:

1. The Automatic Transmission is placed in gear (forward or reverse) or,
2. The Service Brake pedal is depressed or,
3. Throttle position is greater than 0% or,
4. Vehicle Speed is greater than 0 mph or,
5. Coolant Temperature is greater than 79°C (175°F).

Engine speed will return to normal operation at 800 rpm. If the engine continues to idle and coolant temperature is at or below 60°C (140°'F), the feature will reenable. In order to operate properly, the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) must stay at idle.

NOTE: ANY TYPE OF AFTERMARKET IDLE SPEED KICKER THAT ACTIVATES THE APPS WILL DISABLE THIS FEATURE.

Use of the 110V block heater will not allow the feature to function after an overnight soak. If the vehicle is left idling, without use of the block heater, 1200 rpm operation will begin when the intake temperature drops below O°C (32°F) and coolant is less than 60°C (140°F).
I'm guessing with a 10* ambient, your coolant temp and intake air temps were both within the ranges. Possibly you have a bad IAT or coolant temp sensor that is showing an inaccurate reading making the ECM think it's warmer than it is. Or an inaccurate reading from the APPS indicating greater than 0% throttle.
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STATELINE View Post
I beleive there is more to it than the programming on a manual trans. I know it took more on my 05.
Nope... just get the correct programming and if your sensors are working correctly, it'll work as described.
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Old 11-04-2009, 08:42 PM
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I had the same issue, dealer screwed it up, even after I gave them the TSB, I wasted 100$.
posted in the local forum chapter, and I met with a guy locally who had a Smarty. I bought him a coffee and a donut (I offered much more but that was all he wanted!!)
he loaded and unloaded a program, and I ended up with hi-idle!!
I already have a manual cable as well (easily hooked up under the dash, no need to hook it up in the engine bay)
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Old 11-04-2009, 09:35 PM
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Same for me. Thanks Tate.
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Old 11-04-2009, 11:08 PM
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I would love to borrow a Smarty, but there aren't too many members up here, let alone ones with 2nd gens. I will be cleaning my IAT, hope that helps. Adjusted APPS not to long ago, it should be good. And, due to a hard starting issue I replaced the coolant temp sensor. We'll see if it works sometime.
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Old 11-05-2009, 12:07 AM
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So are you wanting the high idle or the 3 cylinder idle? They are 2 different things.

I cant remember what temp the 3 cylinder idle kicks in but its fairly cold. Does anyone know the parameters for that?
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Old 11-05-2009, 12:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Evil View Post
So are you wanting the high idle or the 3 cylinder idle? They are 2 different things.
they work together ... high idle first, then if it's cold enough 3 cyl kicks in
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  #11  
Old 11-05-2009, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13ALPHA View Post
It had parking brake on, in neutral, etc, all the conditions listed met. Any ideas?


Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieJustin View Post
4. The Service Brake pedal is not depressed
Could that be the problem why it didn't ramp up?
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Old 11-05-2009, 08:32 AM
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Nope!
Believe 'service brake' is the brake pedal, not the emergency or parking brake.

13 Alpha - Sounds like it should have worked for you. I seem to remember it takes a while for it to ramp up to 1200 rpm.... but 5 min should do it?
I would go back to dealer and have them check to be sure it's activated. I remember reading some dealer confusion on how to enable the high idler. Something about dificulty on how to save it once entered? Working from memory so.....
Anyone else?

It is definately a cool addition. Only seen it kick in once down here (that was on 'Aggie Justins' CTD).
Never would high idle on mine? But should be a daily item for you! .

RJ
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Old 11-05-2009, 09:32 AM
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check IAT... mine took 2-3 minutes to kick in (with Smarty)... if you don't get the high idle, i would say the dealer isn't doing something correctly
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Old 11-05-2009, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Evil View Post
So are you wanting the high idle or the 3 cylinder idle? They are 2 different things.

I cant remember what temp the 3 cylinder idle kicks in but its fairly cold. Does anyone know the parameters for that?
The high idle kicks in with the IAT at or below 32*. The 3 cyl idle kicks in when the IAT is below 15*.

The main thing to keep in mind is that with the grid heaters warming the initial intake air charge up, your IAT is always going to be somewhat warmer than the ambient temperature. Also, if you have any residual heat left in the engine from the last time it was run, that is also going to affect your readings.
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Old 11-05-2009, 11:13 AM
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Lots of good points. I am pretty sure all the conditions are being met, it may just be a temp sensing issue. I will give it some more time to work out. It's just when a dealership is rude each time, it sets me down that path of not trusting them. Know what I mean?
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Patriot Blue 2000 3/4 ton
NV4500, 285/75R16 BFG AT's, MBRP 5" exhaust, 2" leveling kit, ATS ARC-FLOW, ISSPRO's (boost, EGT, FP), BD Intercooler boots, GDP GFS392, AFE Stage 2, EDGE Comp, DDP Stage 4's, HTT 62/71/14, SB DD Clutch

New VP at 120k

For Alaska: Oil pan Heater,Trickle Charger, Block Heater, Moose Bumper

18FEB08: 521HP & 1110 ft-lb
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