What did you do to your Gen 1 today?
#616
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Land of the Toxic Avenger
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Yesterday, I drove to one of the few Pick A Part Boneyards left in NJ and looked around for a few things. Did I find a first gen ? NO. Found some parts for my wife's honda, but I did get to see a few interesting rides.
Someone took the roof off of this gasser. Geesh, I wonder why ?
Then there was this bus.... Supposedly worth a lot of money, but it was really rotted...
Someone took the roof off of this gasser. Geesh, I wonder why ?
Then there was this bus.... Supposedly worth a lot of money, but it was really rotted...
#617
Registered User
There's a really rough bus back behind an abandon shop down the road and I seen there is a 1st gen gasser new addition at a house near by. I'm seeing a lot of 1st gens around recently. There is a really nice gasser I was asking about and was told no way in hell would it be for sale. I asked again a week later and was told again it would never be for sale. lol
#619
Registered User
Today I put a TorkTek banjo bolt/fuel pressure snubber and a NoShok 0-30 PSI pressure gauge on the truck. Reading 4-5 PSI at idle. At least I know the diaphragm pump is still working. Eventually I'll put a proper fuel pressure gauge in the cab. Probably after I replace the diaphragm pump with a low pressure piston pump.
#620
Registered User
Today I put a TorkTek banjo bolt/fuel pressure snubber and a NoShok 0-30 PSI pressure gauge on the truck. Reading 4-5 PSI at idle. At least I know the diaphragm pump is still working. Eventually I'll put a proper fuel pressure gauge in the cab. Probably after I replace the diaphragm pump with a low pressure piston pump.
#621
Registered User
No pics yet. I'll take one tomorrow if weather permits (supposed to get 3-6" of snow). The gauge is a back mount 1/8" npt nipple and sticks straight out from the snubber. It works out because you can see it from the side of the truck. You don't have to climb up on the tire to look down at it. The needle on the gauge vibrates a bit but I can live with it. The gauge is made in Germany and was $8 shipped on Fleabay. I mostly wanted to confirm that the lift pump was actually working so I don't fry the injection pump.
#622
Registered User
Replaced all three of the U joints, changed the drive shaft support bearing a couple weeks ago. So the driveshaft is now all fresh. Also used all new cap strap bolts.
#623
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Tennessee Colony, Texas
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Rescue Mission
Went and rescued my buddy Tim's first gen, the fan hub blew apart and trashed the hub, fan, and rad. Here is a pic of when we got home, Dylan's 92 flatbed auto, my 93 5 speed with trailer, Tim's 92 5 speed on the trailer (460k miles on this rig!), and my "Ol' Janky" 92 5 speed bringing up the rear.
#624
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Susanville, California
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Went and rescued my buddy Tim's first gen, the fan hub blew apart and trashed the hub, fan, and rad. Here is a pic of when we got home, Dylan's 92 flatbed auto, my 93 5 speed with trailer, Tim's 92 5 speed on the trailer (460k miles on this rig!), and my "Ol' Janky" 92 5 speed bringing up the rear.
Mike
#627
Registered User
Last night while driving home after a movie with my family, the Pyro decided to stop working. I tried hooking and hooking the leads from the Thermocoupler last night, dug under the dash to see if the power and ground were still hooked up...everything looked fine.
So after i came in from the monsoon rains...of course...I dug around on-line and found a PDF file on how to test the early Isspro EV gauge system.
Here is a link for others....
http://www.isspro.com/TROUBLESHOOTIN...leshooting.pdf
Tested everything this morning, and it seemed that the thermocoupler was the culprit. So went down to BD diesel...yup they are 3 minutes from my house... Bought a new T-coupler, and when I got home I tested the new T-coupler and it gave me the exact same readings as my old one.
So the problem clearly was elsewhere. After a little digging and closer inspection I found one of the crimped spade terminals on the wiring off the amplifier had corrosion. Pulled the old spade terminal, cleaned up the wiring and installed and new connector...works like a charm now!!
And just in case someone is testing their T-coupler using the info in that PDF file. The resistance they say you should be getting off the cold T-coupler should be less then 1ohm. My used T-coupler, and the new one both read 3.0 to 3.5 Ohms.
Also the voltage from the amplifier, to the gauge...white and grey wires, should show .8V...mine was .34V and it works fine.
So after i came in from the monsoon rains...of course...I dug around on-line and found a PDF file on how to test the early Isspro EV gauge system.
Here is a link for others....
http://www.isspro.com/TROUBLESHOOTIN...leshooting.pdf
Tested everything this morning, and it seemed that the thermocoupler was the culprit. So went down to BD diesel...yup they are 3 minutes from my house... Bought a new T-coupler, and when I got home I tested the new T-coupler and it gave me the exact same readings as my old one.
So the problem clearly was elsewhere. After a little digging and closer inspection I found one of the crimped spade terminals on the wiring off the amplifier had corrosion. Pulled the old spade terminal, cleaned up the wiring and installed and new connector...works like a charm now!!
And just in case someone is testing their T-coupler using the info in that PDF file. The resistance they say you should be getting off the cold T-coupler should be less then 1ohm. My used T-coupler, and the new one both read 3.0 to 3.5 Ohms.
Also the voltage from the amplifier, to the gauge...white and grey wires, should show .8V...mine was .34V and it works fine.
#628
Registered User
Last night while driving home after a movie with my family, the Pyro decided to stop working. I tried hooking and hooking the leads from the Thermocoupler last night, dug under the dash to see if the power and ground were still hooked up...everything looked fine.
So after i came in from the monsoon rains...of course...I dug around on-line and found a PDF file on how to test the early Isspro EV gauge system.
Here is a link for others....
http://www.isspro.com/TROUBLESHOOTIN...leshooting.pdf
Tested everything this morning, and it seemed that the thermocoupler was the culprit. So went down to BD diesel...yup they are 3 minutes from my house... Bought a new T-coupler, and when I got home I tested the new T-coupler and it gave me the exact same readings as my old one.
So the problem clearly was elsewhere. After a little digging and closer inspection I found one of the crimped spade terminals on the wiring off the amplifier had corrosion. Pulled the old spade terminal, cleaned up the wiring and installed and new connector...works like a charm now!!
And just in case someone is testing their T-coupler using the info in that PDF file. The resistance they say you should be getting off the cold T-coupler should be less then 1ohm. My used T-coupler, and the new one both read 3.0 to 3.5 Ohms.
Also the voltage from the amplifier, to the gauge...white and grey wires, should show .8V...mine was .34V and it works fine.
So after i came in from the monsoon rains...of course...I dug around on-line and found a PDF file on how to test the early Isspro EV gauge system.
Here is a link for others....
http://www.isspro.com/TROUBLESHOOTIN...leshooting.pdf
Tested everything this morning, and it seemed that the thermocoupler was the culprit. So went down to BD diesel...yup they are 3 minutes from my house... Bought a new T-coupler, and when I got home I tested the new T-coupler and it gave me the exact same readings as my old one.
So the problem clearly was elsewhere. After a little digging and closer inspection I found one of the crimped spade terminals on the wiring off the amplifier had corrosion. Pulled the old spade terminal, cleaned up the wiring and installed and new connector...works like a charm now!!
And just in case someone is testing their T-coupler using the info in that PDF file. The resistance they say you should be getting off the cold T-coupler should be less then 1ohm. My used T-coupler, and the new one both read 3.0 to 3.5 Ohms.
Also the voltage from the amplifier, to the gauge...white and grey wires, should show .8V...mine was .34V and it works fine.
I have had a bunch of similar problems with crimp terminals.
#629
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#630
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Got my sandbag racks back from the powder coating company I use.
Can't wait till we get some snow to see how well they work out.
Can't wait till we get some snow to see how well they work out.