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#1 | ||
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Registered User
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cured, left rear oil pan leak
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99 2500 4X4 Laramie Quad cab ISB275 engine 660 tq stock with air comp, HX35/18.5, NV5600, 13.125 SBC, 354 posi, Rancho 9000, Scotty II, EZ, FASS, bottom feed, ported ATS ex man, Isspro gages, Truspeed, Ford dual wheels, Jorden, Alpine, amp, M15000 warn. Freightliner Condo, N14 500hp. Kaufman EZ loader VI car hauler 97 Dodge 2500, Club cab, 4wd, tow body, cow catcher, 12v, NV4500 Borne 50’ car hauler 53/102 Trailmobile Reefer |
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#2 |
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Banned
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Why? You should have it R&R'ed in less than an hour.
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#3 |
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Registered User
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I agree with Big Blue...
Seriously, I think if to put a good amount of sealant on your gasket plus the bar I think it will work good. Some of the old Chevy engines did something like that to keep the pans from leaking. But if the cracks start to grow more you might have to have the pan brazed or replaced...
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2002 Dodge Cummins - Way too many mod to list. |
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#4 |
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Chapter President
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According to the manual you must pull the tranny first to have enough room to drop the pan.
..... Anyone know differant from experiance? Mine is leaking at the same spot.
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02 Dodge 2500 4x4 cummins~6-spd~quad cab~jet black~DPP 4" exhuast~scotty II with hole cut~soon to have my gauges hooked up. My Baby! Silencer ring is now GONE! Music to my ears! VP44 Kills=4 LP Kills=0 |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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i have read other posts, u dont have to remove tranny if u remove motor mounts and lift engine enough to clear sh.t in the way
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99 auto 4x4 4.10 rear,no s ring,bhaf, edge ez, 4" s.s. magnaflow 05 Q.C. auto, stock....for now... |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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There are alternate methods besides pulling the tranny. If your truck is still covered under the cummins engine warrenty, you should be able to have it repaired at the dealer. I just had a new gasket with the black sylicone put on a couple days ago.
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01 2500 QC, 4x4, SB, 3.54, 47RE |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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I have the same tranny and I just replaced the rear main, and when I took off the plate that holds the seal, I noticed the pan gasket was hard and brittle, If you can at all I would recommend changing the gasket or having it done, however, I didn't change mine
, I just put that purple flange sealer on it and it seams to be holding ok, I would highly recommend that stuff, it works great, you can get it at your local Case IH dealer or John Deere dealer. And no, you don't have to remover the tranny to R&R the oil pan.
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2001 Dodge Ram 3500 DRW C&C, HO 24V CTD, NV5600 6 speed, flatbed, Autometer C2 EGT, boost and fuel pressure gauges, Edge Comp, Scotty Air II, silencer ring MIA, 4" MBRP Turbo Back, FASS pump, thats it (for now) 193,000 miles and counting Original VP44 died at 192,000 miles Future Mods: DDP Stage 3 injectors, Dual Disk Clutch Occupation: Case IH service technician Interests: farming, driving with my right window down :D (love to hear that 5.9 beller!) |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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With all due respect, you can't seal a pan gasket from the outside. I had crackes in the pan flange, different problem.
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#9 |
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Registered User
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Sorry, my bad.
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#10 |
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Registered User
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I had an old F150 with a 300 I6.
Pan gasket leaked like a sieve!!, didn't have time to go through the hassle of replacing the pan, so I took a tube of plain old $3 clear sillicone calking and calked all the way around the outside of the pan, smearing it liberally with my finger. Never leaked a drop again in the 40 or 50,000 miles I had the truck after that. I've also sen that done on tractors etc with the same result.
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'06 2500 Mega Cab, New Feb '07, 4x4 SLT loaded, 6 speed, Sun Roof, all the goodies, B&W Gooseneck hitch, Prodigy Controller,Stock so far. 160,000 Miles Towing 2009 Sooner Ranch SR724 Stock trailer Sold: '99 2500 Quad Cab 4x4 5spd. 24V CTD Short-box, Sport, Loaded, 30,000 # Draw-Tite Gooseneck hitch, stainless flares and grill insert, silencer ring gone, straight pipe with 6" tip. BHAF, Van Aaken Smartbox. 250,000 miles DTR Mega Cab Club member #9 |
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#11 |
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Registered User
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Ok glad it worked for you and JD.
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