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10-25-2009, 06:07 AM
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#1 | ||
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CTD in '85/need brake booster?
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'01 3/4, 4x4, LB, quad, Nv-4500, 4' Banks turbo back, Edge w/ Juice, BHAF, Banks High Ram, Custom bumpers, Leveled, Bilstein, 33s, Air dog 150, SB OFE, 200,xxx '85 1 ton, 4x4, crew, '90 CTD/Getrag, 6' lift, 37x13.5 '85 1 ton, 4x4, crew, '90 CTD/727 , Over spring airbags all the way round, 33s '72 1/2, SWB, 318, stick, 4x4, lifted, 38's, 79,xxx original '70 Challenger 440/stick '69 B-Cuda 360/stick |
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10-25-2009, 06:42 AM
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#2 |
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I would seriously consider switching to a hydro boost system instead of vacuum. I've had issues with the vacuum systems on 2 of my 93's. One I switched to hydro boost and other I'm starting to gather parts for.
Here's a little reading on the subject. http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/d....html?t=169715
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Mike That's not a leak, its the external lubrication system. The "Rattle Box" 93 W250 Silver Club Cab, 47RH rebuilt by me with Goerend goodies, HTB2 62/12, hydroboost brakes, plus a few other things, 424/1039, 1/4 mile 14.00@94.3mph 2000 2500, 4x4, 6 speed, 12 valve, Homemade WH1C/HX55W twins 96 2500, Club Cab, AT 93 W250 Green Club Cab, AT 92 Club Cab, AT 07 2500, Quad Cab, 5.9L, Auto (Dad's new ride) John Deere Two Cylinders, too many to list. |
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10-25-2009, 09:13 AM
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Kerrville eastern new mexico, west texas
Posts: 3,249
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hydroboost is the way to go, gm has been doing it in their 3/4 and up trucks since the mid 70's its way better then vacuum
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10-26-2009, 06:26 AM
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#4 |
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I don't want to do something just cause GM did! LOL. I just can't belive that this is the best this brake system can work as it is un-safe in a panic stop. I can't get the wheels to lock up even on dirt and as an auto I am also fighting the engine! I will check the vacuum line to to see if it is cracked or broken. I will look at the hydro boost system as I have a few '94 and up parts Diesel Dodges I could steal the parts off of.
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10-27-2009, 09:01 PM
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#5 |
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If you don't want to go with the hydro, just get the parts in there that were with the diesels in the first place. Put premium pads and shoes on it and turn the rotors and drums to remove the glaze. You should be good.
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'77 w200 crewcab, 4x4, 91.5 ctd/nv4500/205, M&H chromoly tie rod. In the works. '77 Ramcharger/clubcab shorty '91.5 ctd/auto/205, GSK, M&H #2 fuel pin, Guages, 37s on 8 lug 60/70, 16cm, screws turned, cross-over, Jungle frame kit '91.5 w350 standard cab, auto, 3200 spring, m&h #2 pin, fuel pin maxed (91.5 short pin, 1.5 turns), 315k '86 Jetta turbo diesel 145K. |
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11-05-2009, 09:13 AM
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#6 |
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Registered User
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So I am looking at swapping the brake booster and master for a diesel job out of a 1st gen Trooperhorn? That sound easier than swapping in parts from a different gen truck.
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11-05-2009, 09:13 AM
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The brakes work but it reminds me of my manual brake powered '69 Cuda
. I have to stand on the brakes to get them to work and no matter how hard I stand I can't get the wheels to lock up. I am thinking that the brake booster is a gasser job. Would putting a "diesel" brake master and booster be the set up I need? Those gas boosters work on engine vacaum right? The brake lines and brake calipers, pads and shoes where changed by the last owner as I am sure he was trying to make it stop better.
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