Black SunShine 04

Well I am done paying for this service the truck is getting older and now I am going to do it myself plus I am broke :-) . So any tips on changing oil,oil filter,and fuel filter let me know so I can learn from your mistakes. Thanks and keep on truckin!!!

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BlackSunshine2004 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab,Automatic with 4.11's
Straight Piped/2" Leveling Kit/315-70-R17 Mickey Thompsons Baja MTZ/
Sirius Radio/Window Tint/Airaid Intake/Silencer Ring MIA/currently programmerless
DTR PA Chapter #15
Quater Mile 14.70 at 95mph. Sled Pull 286'6"

Pull Ya

Make sure your drain pan is large enough to hold at least 12 qts. of oil! Don't even ask how I know . Get a fluted filter wrench for your oil filter. Cut the bottom out of a large plastic soft drink bottle. After you loosen your oil filter a little put the bottle over the filter and continue to take the filter off. All the excessive oil will drain into the bottle and not down your arm. Someone else can give you some hints about the fuel filter--
Jay

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2004 1/2 Dodge Quad Cab 3/4 T 4x4, triple pillar mount w/ auto meter gauges, PSM, aFe pro guard 7, Edge Juice, Weston steps, Snug top shell, carpeted bed, Magnaflow muffler, Chrome grill guard, 2 in. front lift, Bilstein shocks and Sirius radio, Ravelco and a Colt Commander anti-theft system.

92'1stGen

Well with the oil filter, it's easiest to get to if you remove the air intake tube from the box down to the turbo. Changing the oil is pretty simple. The only thing I don't like about our trucks is the "flush w/ the pan" drain plug. I'll be buying a fumoto quick drain valve when I get a chance. I have them on both an 01' Excursion w/ a 7.3 and the 92' Dodge in my sig, and I don't have any issue with them.

For the fuel filter, there is a hose that runs down from the bottom of the fuel filter bowl, this is where the fuel drains out from. Go to the hardware store, or if you already have some old garden hose laying around, cut a piece about 2 ft long. You'll use this to slip over the end of the hose coming off the fuel bowl and it will allow the fuel to drain right into a container on the ground. Hook the hoses together, place a drain pan, flip the yellow switch and allow the bowl to drain. Take your 29mm, (I would expect you'll have to buy one as most people don't have that size laying around. Genosgarage.com sells one that's made by Lisle for 6.95 + shipping, that's what I use), and unscrew the fuel filter cap. Once it's loose, grab the filter cab and pull up (it might meet slight resistance), you'll feel it loosen and some more fuel will drain out of the bowl once this happens. The filter will come out with the cap, (it's hard to reach at the fuel filter from above, but it's how I do it. I find it easier to separate the filter from the cap before I pull it up from behind the intake, brake fluid reservoir, and that bundle of cables there, because then it's easier to maneuver. Then it's basically just put it back the way it came out. Remove the garden hose from the fuel bowl drain hose, and close the yellow lever at the bottom of the bowl. I just snug the top up when tightening it. Next you need to prime the system. Get in the truck, and turn the key to run, (the notch at which you can hear the fuel pump cycle.). Turn it off for a few seconds and do it another 2 - 3 times. After that start it like normal and it should fire right up. Also, if your filter cap is dirty, brush or clean it off before opening the housing, it'll keep you from contaminating it with dirt.

If you look in the "sticky" for the 3rd Gen's, there's a good, (pictures included), write up on how to do this properly.

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- 92' W250 "The Tank" - Ext Cab - 4x4 - Cummins 5.9 - Auto w/3.55 - Blue/Silver - 173,100 as of 2/10
___> Isspro Tach, 2nd Gen Auto Shifter with Relocated O/D Button, Repaired Odometer
- 06' Ram 3500 - DRW - Reg Cab - 4x4 - Cummins 5.9 - Auto w/ 4.10 - Patriot Blue - 45,000 as of 2/10
___> Jake Brake, Mopar Steps, Linex, Weatherguard Toolbox, EGR In-Channel Window Visors

"One of the first and the last"

Traded But Not Forgotten
- 04' 1500 - Black - Quad Cab - 4.7 V8 - 2x4

Jeff in TD

I find it easiest to get my oil filter with just a long extension, from the bottom.

Be sure the old O ring does not stick to the filter bracket.

Regarding the fuel filter, I extended the drain line on my truck, so it doesn't whiz on the front axle. Wipe out any debris from the canister once you have the filter out, but don't get any lint or anything else on the center post. A chunk of debris of just a few microns can mess up an injector.

Once you have the filter in, turning the key to on and bumping the start position (not enough to spin the engine) will cause the truck to run the lift pump for like 30 seconds.

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06 Inferno Ram dually Laramie 4x4, stick, jake, B&W, BrakeSmart.

Tows 394F Patio Hauler w/ Honda 500 Foreman, and 680 Rincon.

Black SunShine 04

Thanks everyone for the help!!!

zulusafari

I haven't changed on my 3rd gen yet, but I had the best luck with the filter on my 2nd gen from the top, after running the engine for a while. The oil drained better when warm, and the filter spun off easily after warmed, too. I can't stress enough the previous warning about the old gasket -- oil is expensive these days, and to have it spraying all over your engine bay from between a sandwiched oil filter gasket setup is infuriating! I lost about a gallon in no time once, since I wasn't paying attention like I should have been. For several months I wasn't sure what condition my truck was actually in, since it was slowly dripping oil from the places I couldn't reach to clean it all out of!!

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Joshua

2006 3500 SRW MegaCab 4x4 48RE, 3.73 Limited Slip, Line-X, Retrax Tonneau Cover, B&W Turnover Ball GN, New Nitto Dura Grapplers LT265/70R17E tires on stock alloy rims.
Member #266 DTR Megacab Club Join Here

SOLD: 2001.5 3500 QC SLT 4x4 Auto, 4.10's, Fun truck with smart mods -- went to mature 17 y.o. kid in NE.


Some people are like slinkies...not really good for anything, but seeing one tumble down the stairs makes you smile!

bansh-eman

If your running a Fram (which you shouldn't) you may need to remove either the intake tube or the wheel liner to remove it. My brother put a fram on my truck becasue my stupid wife didn't listen to me while I was deployed. It didnt have any flutes in it and I couldnt get it to come off. The can ended up getting crushed and I had to remove the wheel liner to get the wrench in high enough to grab it at the base of the threads.

Start using a Fleetguard or a Baldwin and they have flutes. You can buy a 31 flute I think is the right size, endcap wrench from Genos for like 8 bucks. You put that on the end of the filter and snap a few extensions together and turn it on and off with a 3/8 drive ratchet.

As said make sure the old oring doesnt stick to the fitler housing, and fill the filter with oil before installing the new one. it will take quite abit to fill up.

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~Black 06 2500 HO 48re 4X4 Big Horn Quadcab SLT~

-GDP MK2 - 2 Micron Fuel Filter Kit
-Amsoil Oil Bypass Kit
-PSC Steering Brace
-Thuren Adjustable Track Bar
-N-Fab W/W 6 Steps
-Jimmy Jammer Products
-Ravelco
-Grey WeatherTech Mats
-Rear Fender Liners
-Bush Wacker Pocket Flares

~Coming Soon~

-RevTek 4.5in Lift w/ Bilstein 5100's (Ordered)
-Toyo Open Country 35x12.50x18
-XD Addict 18x9 (Waiting for tires)
-Ranch Hand Bullnose
-PIAA 520 ATV (Waiting for bumper)

ChrisJohnson

I also use a long extension to get to the filter. And it will hold a full quart of oil when you fill it. It is a little slow to fill, but it will hold a full quart. Don't forget to smear a little oil over the the filter gasket also. And just tighten it up snug. Put it on too tight, and you'll regret it next time you go to change it.

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2006 SLT 3500 Megacab 4x4, Goerend transmission w/triple disc torque converter, billet input shaft, billet flex plate, Carli 2.5 Performance suspension, Ballistic 18X9 Hostels, Toyo 35's, Smarty, 7" single exhaust stack, sprayed rockers and bed by Extreme, Frontier front and rear bumper and step bars, also sprayed by Extreme, AEM Workhorse, wheel well liners, Ravelco anti-theft device, and no stinking badges.

Wife's ride--Black 2008 Charger SRT8--no mods yet, just give me a little more time!

Danderson

before installing the Fumoto drain plug,I'd always have to score a big piece of cardboard from Home Depot. That little device is a lifesaver as it does indeed prevent the "deluge or nothing" hazard of the stock plug. Collecting oil samples are now so much easier. Geno's has them for a great price.

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'07 2500 Reg.cab,G-56,5.9, Northstar popup 24/7. Upgrades: Carli,Defiant,Thuren,King. Don't blame me,I voted for McCain.

JustLuckey

Regarding the fuel filter, after you get everything installed, I've found that I have to turn the key to the on position 10-12 times (2-3 seconds each time) before trying to start my truck...others seem to have success with number of times. If possible, try to pour some (clean) diesel in the fuel filter housing, this will will minimize time waiting for it to fill up. (when I say clean diesel, meaning: not the stuff you drained out).

P.S. Just an extra reminder to close the yellow level. Learn from my mistake.

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2005 Dodge 2500 QC SB 4x4, Westin Step Bars, 5" Turbo-back, Quadzilla Max Mileage Module, Extang Solid Fold Tonneau
2006.5 VW Jetta TDI (stock)

37% of all statistics are made up on the fly.

bansh-eman

Dan you use one of those drains that screws into the stock hole and has a open/close valve on it?

patoka pirate

I thought if you turn the key on, and just engage the starter for a second or two, then let go of the key in the run position, the fuel pump will run for 20 seconds or so. This is enough to fill up the filter housing. This has always worked for me, and the truck starts on the first try.

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2005, 2500 quad cab shortbed, 2 wheel drive, 5.9 H.O., 48re tranny, mag hytec double deep pan, 11.5 rear end 3.73 antispin, mag hytec diff cover

ChrisJohnson

Same thing for me. Just turn the key on long enough to "bump" the starter without actually starting the engine. You can hear the pump running for as long as it needs too, as it fills up the filter housing. Another thing I sometimes do is to pour a little bit of Power Service or some other injector cleaner like Red Line in the housing. Not as much as I dump into the fuel tank, maybe an ounce or so. Hasn't hurt my truck, or my last truck by doing this.

MegaTony06

I am with you. Dealer wants $80+ for oil change with non-synthetic. They want $160.00 for a rear differential (synthetic) fluid change. They are crazy.



For a 2006 5.9L 24v

Oil/Oil Filter:
Within 1 hour of having truck to operating temperatures. Warm enough for oil to drain nice and cool enough to not burn your arms/hands on stuff.

I lift my truck high enough to fit a 5 gallon bucket underneath and set on jack stands.
Take out drain plug.
Open oil fill cap.
Take off oil filter - I do mine from the bottom and by hand and I use Mopar filter: MO-285.

Then, fill new oil filter with oil (about 3/4 of a gallon)(I use Valvoline Premium Blue Synthetic $8/gallon at Advanced Auto on sale). Lube the gasket on the new filter with new oil. Install new filter with oil in it and hand tighten.
Wipe up drain plug area and re-install drain plug. Go topside and pour in two gallons of new oil. Let sit and check dipstick (remember you already put in approximately 3/4 of a gallon in the oil filter). Add as necessary to get in the safe range. Start engine and let idle for about 1 minute and shutdown.

Fuel Filter:
Purchase a 4' length of 5/8" I.D.(inner diameter) clear tubing. Put it on the down tube from the fuel filter housing and put other end in catch container. Open yellow drain valve. Then take a 1-1/8" socket and loosen (lefty-loosey) the fuel filter cap until it spins freely. It might resist a little but, pull it out slowly. I have not found the need to remove any other parts to get this out (maybe cover some of the linkages below with an absorbent towel - steering linkage for example). Close the yellow drain valve and disconnect your 4' length of clear tubing (clear tubing lets you see if you have an fluid in the tubing to insure proper drainage). Take off the old filter from the cap and remove the old yellow O-ring. Lube the new O-ring with some diesel fuel and clean the cap with a lint-free towel and put the new O-ring on the cap. Install the new filter in the cap and lube the bottom gasket of the filter itself with diesel fuel. Re-install slowly and tighten with the 1-1/8" socket and be careful not to cross-thread the plastic cap. Bump the ignition once and listen for the fuel pump to stop and bump it a second time.

Before starting the engine - check the oil level once again to insure proper level. Add if necessary - total should be 3 gallons including what you put in the filter. Then start.

Be sure to lube the proper fittings and rotate your tires while you have it off the ground.

I use disposable nitrile gloves (box of 50 at WalMart for cheap) and my hands stay nice and clean while maintaining grip on things.

This reminds me...I need to find a new floor jack. <kicks rock>

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2006 5.9 3500 SRW 4x2 MegaCab Laramie (stock) G56

Rednecktastic

To get the oil filter I just pull back a little on the inner fender so I can get a filter band wrench back there from the wheel well. My truck is lifted a bit so that may make it easier for me to do this....

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-Hillbilly Deluxe

2007 2500 QC SB Laramie 5.9l 4x4. Lorenz Bilstein 5100 kit, Relentless Valvebody, Thuren Track Bar and XD wheels wrapped in 35x12.50x17 Hankook M/Ts... Muffler Fell Off, otherwise stock for now.



GIG'EM AGS!