A/C Question - Dodge Diesel

jcmoyer2004 · 08-01-2008, 07:36 PM

Is there a difference in the A/C systems in the regular cab versus the club cabs. I'm thinking about putting a McKinnley Conversion on my regular cab whihc in essecense make it a club cab, but want to be able to cool the bigger area in a reasonable amount of time. the system i have now does ok but i dont think it will cool the both parts down like i need it too during the south texas summers.

loch · 08-01-2008, 10:49 PM

i doubt theres a diff.

MoparMarv · 08-01-2008, 10:50 PM

I have never been asked if the truck was a club cab when I ordered A/C parts if that means anything. I would imagine it would cool down fine just take a little longer to pump all the heat out larger cab. Maybe an extra electric fan in front of the condesner would help get rid of some more heat quicker.

NotEnufGarage · 08-01-2008, 11:24 PM

Insulate the floor and back wall well and it'll be fine. Those areas of hot metal take a lot to cool them off. If they're insulated, they won't need that.

I just did the rear floor and back wall in my standard cab it makes a difference both in noise and cooling/heating. On 100 degree days here, it can take a while for the A/C to cool things off, especially when you're stuck in traffic (no air flow over condensor, low RPM's, etc.). The insulation helps.

wannadiesel · 08-02-2008, 04:21 AM

No difference in the capacity of the A/C system on any of the D/W series trucks. The Ramchargers used the same A/C setup too.

jcmoyer2004 · 08-02-2008, 10:00 AM

thanks for all the help guys, i'm going to dyno-mat or the same type of insulation all along the floor and the cab, just about whereever there is metal i'm going to try to insulate it and then cover it with a good carpet, hope that helps with the cooling process.

NotEnufGarage · 08-02-2008, 11:49 AM

Make sure you seal everything you can, too. Mine had a problem with hot air blowing in behind the door panels because the plastic film had been removed. I put some foil backed bubble wrap there to seal it back up and it helped, plus quieted things down some.

Also, you might look into fender vents. They'll reduce underhood temp, which reduces firewall temp. Me, I'd like to be able to freeze my steaks in the bag on the way home from the grocery store.

unixcowboy · 08-02-2008, 01:42 PM

Be sure to look into cleaning the air intake in the passenger's side foot well.
When I cleaned mine the heater worked better and to my surprise the ac did also.
Now I get ~ 35* air out of my vents !

jcmoyer2004 · 08-03-2008, 06:52 AM

well i do like a really cold a/c just didn't think this old one would cool as good as the newer models. i will definately look into sealing up the door panels when i replace the door speakers and i have been planning to get into the air intake to see if it needs cleaning, just haven't had too much time. but thanks for all the suggestions guys, ya'll are a lot of help

keith1992 · 08-03-2008, 02:57 PM

Well, if you like really cold air, don't convert an R12 system into R134a. That stuff is absolute crap. Its one of those you get what you pay for deals.

jcmoyer2004 · 08-03-2008, 03:33 PM

well unfortunately it was already converted to the 134a when i bought it

wannadiesel · 08-03-2008, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keith1992

Well, if you like really cold air, don't convert an R12 system into R134a. That stuff is absolute crap. Its one of those you get what you pay for deals.

I wouldn't go that far. It works pretty well, only on the most nasty hot humid days do I need to keep it on "Max" all the time. I'll agree that it doesn't cool as well as an R12 system, but it's a darn sight better than nothing and you can convert for under $50.

NotEnufGarage · 08-03-2008, 03:56 PM

If you do convert from R12 to R134a, try to find a larger condensor that will fit on your truck. Newer vehicles have bigger condensors to accomodate R134a.

First, be sure your airbox is clean. See the post I did about 2 weeks ago on the subject. My evaporator was almost completely blocked, letting just a trickle of cold air through. It's much, much better now after cleaning the evaporator inside the air box (under the dash). Best 30 minutes I've spent on the truck, so far.

08-01-2008, 10:49 PM	#2
loch Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: texas Posts: 1,210 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	i doubt theres a diff. __________________ 1989 ram 3500 dually 2wd,,, water/methynol injection hewitt gauges in a custom dash, pump mods hand built custom hauler bed There is no secret so close as that between a rider and his horse.

08-01-2008, 10:50 PM	#3
MoparMarv Registered User Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Oak Lawn, IL Posts: 774 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	I have never been asked if the truck was a club cab when I ordered A/C parts if that means anything. I would imagine it would cool down fine just take a little longer to pump all the heat out larger cab. Maybe an extra electric fan in front of the condesner would help get rid of some more heat quicker. __________________ 1993 W250 Clubcab 5spd, 3.07 gears, Green/Tan, Isspro Boost, pyro, fuel pressure and tach. 7'6" Meyers Plow. 3 inch Straight pipe. MagHytec Diff cover. Alocas with 265/75's BFG AT's, HX35 12cmWG, P3 Brake controller, 110gal bed tank, BHAF In stock waiting for a nice day. -Rocker panels, Chrome roof lights, Lund Visor Future Plans -4inch exhaust, 2-4 inch lift -1980 Rabbit diesel 4dr 5spd. -1982 Mercedes 300 -1997 F250 SC 4x4 auto 7.3 powerstroke

08-01-2008, 11:24 PM	#4
NotEnufGarage Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Carmichael, CA - A suburb of Sacramento Posts: 501 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	Insulate the floor and back wall well and it'll be fine. Those areas of hot metal take a lot to cool them off. If they're insulated, they won't need that. I just did the rear floor and back wall in my standard cab it makes a difference both in noise and cooling/heating. On 100 degree days here, it can take a while for the A/C to cool things off, especially when you're stuck in traffic (no air flow over condensor, low RPM's, etc.). The insulation helps. __________________ 1990 W350 5.9L CTD G360 GV O/D 3.54:1 255K Cast Elbow to 4" 2nd gen DP to 4" Magnaflow to 5" tip, BHAF, 366 spring, DennyT StageII Fuel Pin, 16cm, 60mm, 3" Crosspipe, Custom fuel filters (10, 5, 2 micron), Isspro EGT, Boost, Tach, 12K winch, double tube rollbar with 6 x KC Daylighters (800 watts total) - Dyno 214/520 w/ pump detuned 1979 Li'l Red Express 360 4BBL 1974 Duster Super Six 1970 Challenger R/T Clone 1970 Charger Daytona Clone 1970 Charger 383 2001 BMW 750iL 2009 PT Cruiser

08-02-2008, 04:21 AM	#5
wannadiesel Adminstrator-ess Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: New Holland, PA Posts: 22,593 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	No difference in the capacity of the A/C system on any of the D/W series trucks. The Ramchargers used the same A/C setup too. __________________ Faith '93 D350 - DPS 6x16's, HTT Stage IV/14wg, PowerStroke IC, Snow water/meth, Walbro 392, Con-FE, pump tampering by owner. 390 HP/800 TQ on #2 only, 413 HP/852 TQ w/ water/meth - needs more air! Dead KDP's = 72 wannadiesel@dieseltruckresource.com

08-02-2008, 01:42 PM	#8
unixcowboy Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Central Mi Posts: 666 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	Be sure to look into cleaning the air intake in the passenger's side foot well. When I cleaned mine the heater worked better and to my surprise the ac did also. Now I get ~ 35* air out of my vents ! __________________ '93 D250 Auto CC HX-40 60/65/17 w/hx50 flange - hit 57 held 55 psi OOPS => 6x16's <=, PS IC, CoolerTubz, 366 spring w/2 turn clipped, power screw bottomed-backed off 1 1/2 turn, M2 power pin, smoke screw fully out, custom AFC spring, modified top to get pin higher, '94 built trans - clutches and some hard parts, trans cooler under bed in front of rear wheel, 4510 w/4 1/2" intake and heat shield, htr grids MIA, 4" dp -> 5" pipe -> 5" Stack, 285's rear 265's front

08-02-2008, 10:00 AM	#6
jcmoyer2004 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Katy, Tx Posts: 523 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	thanks for all the help guys, i'm going to dyno-mat or the same type of insulation all along the floor and the cab, just about whereever there is metal i'm going to try to insulate it and then cover it with a good carpet, hope that helps with the cooling process.

08-02-2008, 11:49 AM	#7
NotEnufGarage Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Carmichael, CA - A suburb of Sacramento Posts: 501 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	Make sure you seal everything you can, too. Mine had a problem with hot air blowing in behind the door panels because the plastic film had been removed. I put some foil backed bubble wrap there to seal it back up and it helped, plus quieted things down some. Also, you might look into fender vents. They'll reduce underhood temp, which reduces firewall temp. Me, I'd like to be able to freeze my steaks in the bag on the way home from the grocery store.

08-03-2008, 06:52 AM	#9
jcmoyer2004 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Katy, Tx Posts: 523 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	well i do like a really cold a/c just didn't think this old one would cool as good as the newer models. i will definately look into sealing up the door panels when i replace the door speakers and i have been planning to get into the air intake to see if it needs cleaning, just haven't had too much time. but thanks for all the suggestions guys, ya'll are a lot of help

08-03-2008, 02:57 PM	#10
keith1992 Banned Join Date: May 2008 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 306 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	Well, if you like really cold air, don't convert an R12 system into R134a. That stuff is absolute crap. Its one of those you get what you pay for deals.

08-03-2008, 03:33 PM	#11
jcmoyer2004 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Katy, Tx Posts: 523 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	well unfortunately it was already converted to the 134a when i bought it

08-03-2008, 03:56 PM	#13
NotEnufGarage Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Carmichael, CA - A suburb of Sacramento Posts: 501 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	If you do convert from R12 to R134a, try to find a larger condensor that will fit on your truck. Newer vehicles have bigger condensors to accomodate R134a. First, be sure your airbox is clean. See the post I did about 2 weeks ago on the subject. My evaporator was almost completely blocked, letting just a trickle of cold air through. It's much, much better now after cleaning the evaporator inside the air box (under the dash). Best 30 minutes I've spent on the truck, so far.

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