Broken u bolt and studs
#1
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Thread Starter
Broken u bolt and studs
I was backing into a parking stall and heard something snap. I hopped out and the whole axle was shifted forward on the passenger side. Both studs and u bolt snapped. The 2 studs are sheared off completely and the other half is still in the axle holes. I tried using an easy to get one out and it broke on me. I am running 37's on a 6 inch lift and I will be getting upgraded u bolts and fasteners. Anyone have any ideas to get the studs out?
#2
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I'd get a tapered lug nut that fits into the hole and against the broken stud and weld it to the broken stud. I'd make it a nice hot weld to make sure you've got good penetration to both parts. As soon as the weld solidifies and sets I would take a long wrench and try to spin it out. I wouldn't let it cool down too much. The heat from welding may break it loose. If it won't come out at that point I would drain the gear oil and use a torch to heat the immediate area of the case around the studs. Keep a fire extinguisher or a hose handy. Remember: burning gear oil floats on water!
#3
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Thread Starter
I'll give it a shot. Seems to be in there pretty well. The previous owner didn't replace one of the studs that were broken and the other broke on me. Wish people did things right the first time
#4
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You will need to find a friend with a good welder and take the truck or just the axle to him and have him build a Hay stack of weld ontop of the broken stud's then weld a Nut to that heat it up really well and it should back right out . What part of Calif you in ? I'm Also in Southern Ca .
#7
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#8
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I'd get a tapered lug nut that fits into the hole and against the broken stud and weld it to the broken stud. I'd make it a nice hot weld to make sure you've got good penetration to both parts. As soon as the weld solidifies and sets I would take a long wrench and try to spin it out. I wouldn't let it cool down too much. The heat from welding may break it loose. If it won't come out at that point I would drain the gear oil and use a torch to heat the immediate area of the case around the studs. Keep a fire extinguisher or a hose handy. Remember: burning gear oil floats on water!
This is the same reason that when you weld a plate the ends warp up toward the hot side.
#9
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Have fun finding the right studs. I bought a 3.07 geared front axle from a guy who got a little torch happy and torched off the studs. I got them out with out much problem. I discovered that all of the places that advertise studs for the D60 stock Chevy studs (surprise surprise) NOT Dodge studs. Chevy studs are 5/8" course thread into the case. Dodge studs are 9/16" course thread into the case. On the plus side you can drill and tap the holes and the 5/8" studs should be stronger.
#10
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I threw the studs out, and replaced them with bolts. Yes, it was difficult getting the correct length, as I had to head out to the supply house after I put the truck together, but it worked out fine. Been a couple years now, and no issues at all. Grade 8 bolts, and you're good to go.
That is if you can get those studs out.
That is if you can get those studs out.
#11
Registered User
same here, im running g-8 bolts, thicker lifted spring pack=longer bolt, when mine did that, 2 of the leafs broke stopping real quick at 3 in the am in the middle of nowhere, wrapped chain around it and started slowly back for home, I drilled and ez-outed the studs
#14
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Bolt's are Much Easier to Deal with .If you were close to southern Ca. I'de Point you in the right direction to get some help . I'm sure if you find a welding shop they will know how to get them out .Without drilling them out .