mknittle

I see.

j_martin

Update. Ordered the warranty replacement last Tuesday. NAPA said it'd take two days to get here. It got here yesterday, (6 days). The man at the counter looked at me real stern over his half high readers and said, "You did put in a new clip, didn't you?" I said no, sell me one. He said, "We don't have one."

Anyway, tracked down a new clip at a big Chrysler dealer 30 miles away and picked it up. Took the DW along and stopped at Gander Mountain. The place reeked of Titebond and carpet adhesive. They were remodeling and had deep discounts on many things. Bought a fishing rod, 2 7 way trailer connector sets for 5 bucks each, a new Dodge Ram steering wheel cover for 5 bucks, and about $300 in new fishing clothes, mostly Columbia stuff, for 50% or more off. Badly needed as I've lost 30 lbs. or so recently and my old clothes hang like a tent on me. Worked out pretty good.

But I digress; I painted up and installed the booster. Seems fine. MC creeps, but that'll wait till I get time to fuss with the bleeders and make sure they all are loose. I have a new Bendix MC in hand.

FYI, the clip is almost impossible to remove without some damage. Considering it's responsibility for safety, I'd recommend acquiring a new one before you drop the pedal linkage for any reason. Part Number is 4581512AA, $1.50 Undamaged, it installs with a firm thumb press.

Now moving on to finding the pedal modulation in the main ride, and installing a past era Kelsey hydraulic-rheostat brake controller in it.

j_martin

Sigh, second one lasted one day. Same failure.

Going from pictures, finish, and part numbers, it appears that NAPA, CardOne, and BrakeBest are all the same (Wagner)

Anybody know where I can get a Bendix R2518525

Nughuffer

I feel like I found one on Amazon when I was going through this. I know you've said this as not an option but seriously consider hydroboost. I got the master/booster & lines off of a 2nd gen for ~$200. Couple of hours labor & you'll have more braking power than you'll ever need and won't have to deal with this crap again...

Edit: If you want to pay shipping, Ill send you my stock booster. Pretty sure it still worked. LMK

j_martin

I may take you up on that. Thanks for the offer.

Went into NAPA and told them about the second failure. Same guy with the readers said bring it back, we'll refund. There must be something else wrong. Go find another supplier. I've only been wrenching for 50 years, and I have the FSM and another vehicle for comparison. SeeYa.

According to napa online, they were the only supplier in town with fleet service rated brake pads. Nope, not here, 3-4 days in time. Truck (other one) is on blocks waiting for parts. Front pads are about 35%, and as long as I'm in it far enough to inspect, I might as well change them out.

Went over to O'reilly. Booster might get here tomorrow afternoon, Monday morning at the latest. (Napa took a week) Brake pads will be here after lunch, carbon-semi metalic SD for about the same price as Napa organic-semi metalic.

I think I'm going to notify NTSC about the bad brake boosters from NAPA.

james1

John:

There is a retired Chrysler engineer on this forum, Mysteryman, who rebuilds First Gen brake vacuum boosters -- and apparently he reseals the metal cannister in such a way that the booster can easily be rebuilt again in the future.

This would involve mailing your bad booster to him and waiting for him to ship it back to you, so it obviously ain't quick -- but it is yet one more option.

Again, best of luck with this. Far and away the worst thing about my First Gen Dodge is the fact that Mopar has ceased to support it. Parts for a 1953 ****** jeep are widely available and yet parts for my 1993 truck are impossible.

JGB

j_martin

That's the kind of info I was looking for when I started this thread. I have 3 vehicles to support, including my son's, so maybe I can get Nughuffer's, on one from a bone yard and get it rebuilt. If I had known, I would have held on to the core and sent that to him. It's gone now.

I understand the same booster was used in a lot of 87 - 93 x250's and 350's.

Nughuffer

Its yours if ya want it...

mknittle

Just do it. you won't be sorry

bigragu

so this brake clip is a dealer item only? Was it in stock or did they have to order it?

bigragu

Just curious about the shaft on the side of the booster that pops into the master cylinder. In your trips to orileys did you happen to grab that shaft and pull on it? Is the new reman ones shaft suppose to slide out? Have my old one out and that shaft does not pull out. Orileys ordered 2 in and the shafts all slide out, but the one off my truck does not even tried pulling it out with pliers no way. So either the orileys reman batches are ALL bad for a sliding shaft or mine went south for not being able to slide out. What is your suggestion? I am working my way to a new master cylinder thought I'd look into the booster also

maybe368

As far as I know, they slide out, at least all of the ones I have seen...Mark

j_martin

On all I've seen, the MC shaft floats. They come in the box with a paper tape keeper on them to keep them from falling out.

"Floating" that shaft seems like a reasonable design to me.

bigragu

Just posted my results on the brake bleeding tread of mine. When I pulle the old booster out( 1 year old) the end with the eyelet that connects to pedal falls out and the end has a piece connected to it that something had damaged inside. Hope my brake best replacement lasts longer

whosdunit

Well , boys I'm in the same boat or truck as some of ya'll. Have 90-d350 auto,brakes started getting hard to push, now it takes constrated effort to stop,and you better not let your acking knees relax ,,not even a little . New vaccum booster,new m/c,,bleed breaks ,,vaccum line from pump will suck to your thumb like a leech,,still have to apply hard pressure,,( man I only weight 170) , yesterday had to do a 340 mi. trip through some mtns.,my (stork like legs) legs are sore today.This ol' truck use to stop w/ a light pedel. What ya'll think ,where do I go from here????


whosdunit.