j_martin

Got one leaking, hiss under the dash, not much for brakes at idle.

Any advice on a replacement? What to avoid, good one to get, etc.

KRB

Geesh, everything crapping out at once on you?

j_martin

With two 21 year old trucks and a 21 year old rice burner, plus a 25 year old light 4x4, I expect some maintenance issues. The Dodges always start and haul freight when asked, even if they're a little under the weather.

This one's been used mostly for short haul firewood and dirt. Been ignoring the hiss for months. It looks like a friend needs it to haul his camper, so I'm getting motivated to catch up on things a bit.

crazy clem

Bought a Napa one , on a year so far and no issues. Measured for free play adjustment so brakes wouldnt drag bang on out of the box . Masking and painting it took longer than installing it.

Nughuffer

Hydroboost from a 2nd gen

sooty

reman boosters are great, reasonable priced

j_martin

With the help of a friend tracked down an OEM one. It's out in a shed if it exists, and the dealer wants $346 +S&H for it. Who knows what diaphragm debilitating atmosphere it's been in all these years.

I can sort through a few BrakeBest reman units for that. It'll have a lifetime warranty. Who knows what diaphragm debilitating

james1

Good luck with it. I do recommend you stay away from Cardone brand reman units, which were the only reman units I could find when I was looking. Some 3+ years ago, after my Cardone booster failed in less than four weeks, I found and purchased an OEM unit. Although expensive, it has performed perfectly, and has potentially saved me the labor of replacing a reman every few months...

j_martin

Thanks, Jim, for your help and concern. It looks like I'll go with Oreilly's BrakeBest unless I get a big negative rise here first. I've had pretty good luck with Oreilly's house brands, and it's 20 bucks cheaper than NAPA.

It's hard to justify over $300 for a beater that is likely going to be a parts truck soon. It runs good, but if you could throw the cat through it with the doors closed. It's pretty amazing, the windows still operate like a guillotine, and everything works except cruise.

j_martin

Bought a NAPA booster and put it in. Brake light switch got mashed to always on. Booster doesn't stop pedal return when it should .
2 days wait for a replacement. Couple hours time and a rattle can of black paint wasted.

thrashingcows

Well I guess we have second vote on not using the NAPA ones. I will probably go with the booster, and MC combo through O'Reillys when I need to replace mine.

mknittle

The only things that I will buy from NAPA don't have any moving parts.
That would be bolts and only if they are the only one that has them.

j_martin

I'm going to check the next one out, throw it in and test it for a week before I bother painting it. Got it down to about 20 minutes in and out.

First time was tough. Had to have the DW stand on the brakes while I beat on the master cylinder with a rubber hammer to get it to let go from the booster. I cleaned it up with sandpaper and put a real thin coat of SilGlyde on it before I put it up to the new booster.

I have a new Bendix master cylinder to put in. I'm going to wait till I do some other brake work if I can before I install it, mostly to be sure all the bleeders are free.

Does anybody know where I can buy a 9/16" -20 (not 18) inverted flare nut, either 3/16" or 1/4" tube?

mknittle

If I were at that point I would sure seriously consider the Hydro boost.
I put one in my jeep whit braded hoses the pedal feel is rock solid and with almost twice the line pressure.

j_martin

This one ain't worth it unless I happen to find a decent body for it.