Redleg

On the intake, behind the bracket that the throttle lever mounts to is a plug in the intake. Is this the one? I assume I have to drill through the bracket for the tube? There looks to be enough space between the fuel lines(the ones running up the back side of this bracket) to drill a hole between them.<br><br>Cooling system is assembled, and will test drive tomorrow to see how the temp holds with the mods.

Monty

Most guys just drill and tap the intake crossover pipe on the non intercooled trucks.

Garz

I'll have to agree with Monty on this one. It was real easy to drill and tap the cross over tube on the back side of it, a couple of inches above the rubber coupling. Take the turbo off if your worried about metal shavings and shove a rag in it. I did this faster than messin with the plug. The non-intercooled are different than the intercooled.

Redleg

I'll consider it, however I may upgrade to an inter-cooler in the future. Does the plug I describe sound feasable? Hate to pull stuff and hear things drop on the inside. Or could this be a water port?

Bushy

Just for clarification, are you wanting to install a boost pressure connection, or a pyro connection.????

I read your post to mean that you are looking to install a line to draw boost pressure for a boost guage.
If that is the case, you can go either way with access. You can try to 'go thru the mounting bracket' method or just remove the 'air horn' and drill/tap it for a 1/8" NPT fitting to connect your boost tube to. You can always change it later by simply putting in an NPT blind plug, no problem.
I think that in behind that mounting bracket there are 2 plugs you can use... one is a smaller allen keyed (1/8" thread, and the other is a larger, almost 1/2" plug.
Correct me if I'm wrong on sizes here guys....

Either way, I'd suggest you complete your installation of boost line with a nice tight wrap of flexwrap (Black) all the way from the head to the firewall. Use black zap strap to secure each end securely.
Did you know that the white zapstrap (cableties) deteriorate and harden over time due to heat and UV, while the black does not do that...

One more quick tip that I learned the hard way....
I had all my wires etc running thru the big rubber plug on the firewall, just below and to the right of the steering shaft.
I discovered that the tight fit of the rubber grommet was chaffing the wires, particularly the pyro line which was thicker.
I took a piece of that stiff grey plastic water pipe used in campers and stuff, cut a piece about 2 1/2" long, slit it lengthwise, opened up the slit and wrapped it around the wires and slid the pipe with wire in it, into the rubber plug on the firewall. Then I got some of that spray 'stop leak' for fixing cracks, and holes and sprayed around the outside of the plastic pipe part sticking out of the grommet.
I can now stuff more wires or whatever into the pipe and thru into the cab without any hassle and the area around the pipe is water tight, with no worry of chaffing the wiring.
Just a thought.

Bob.

Redleg

Well guys I went ahead and did it this morning.

I drilled through the bracket, and took out the the small plug. It was very easy to break loose. I put a rubber grommet on the hole I drilled to protcet the line. It was tough getting in there, but worked good. Bob, I did have my pyro routed through that firewall plug. I drilled another hole next to the one in the middle, slightly smaller than the tube. Hopefully being a tight fit will limit vibration and wear, but I'll keep an eye on it. I will put some permatex on the pyro wire. The gauges are floating in the cab for now, but will order a piller pod tonight. 45 minutes on the freeway to work..... pyro stayed right at 950 doing 75-80 (as far as I can push it , no over drive, 4:10 gear, 235 tires. No boost registering at idle, most I got pushing it was 22. 14-15 under conditions above. 6-9 doin 60-65, and pyro dropped at lower speeds. Got to work, checked connections real quick, and was under 300 pretty quick. Bob, also thanks for the tip, I was planning on a wire loom, and have som brackets to secure everything. Next, I plan on putting in a real coolant temp gauge.

Thanks guys,
Don