bannerd

Yep, exactly what that is . It works, stopped it from rusting, the cast on my exhaust manifold from the engine is really rusting on me even though I start the engine every few days. Since the truck has been sitting the brake rotors are getting some rust as well. I'll get them turned when the time comes.

Thanks for the kind words all... now I just need to locate plug weld pliers.

CE_TX

Great job on the rockers!!

You are going to have a really nice truck when done.

bannerd

I was able to get my cab on this weekend. I ended up doing it by myself which took me about ten ratchet straps, two 2x4's and cost me one light bulb. The challenge was getting it over the shifter for the getrag which I did sit the cab on when I was lowering it. I'm not sure if I broke it.. it shifts back and forth fine but makes a springy noise when going into neutral? Is this normal? When I lowered the cab I kept look under so it didn't get the entire weight of it. I think it will be fine.

After that I spend probably seven hours sanding and laid down some self etch primer on it. Then coated it with Majic paint oil primer (stuff sands super easy and doesn't gum up paper when cured).





I measure the cab and broke out the new poly cab mounts I bought for it. My question is.. do the big ones go in the back and the smaller ones up front?



I think I gave $50 for the kit off ebay.. didn't come with instructions so I hope they didn't fall out? Kit came with the cab mounts and the radiator bushings, all poly.

bannerd

Oh! before I forget, how do the back windows come out?

I looked at the gasket and I don't see how this works.. there is no locking strip on them at all.

ChrisLib

the same principles apply

209trucker

If you push from the inside out in a corner the window will come out easily, and the 1/8" cord is definitely the way to go for install.

Funny fact, in the video that's not a 67 chevy. The windows too big

bannerd

Thank you all, I'll see what I can do. I have a sliding window but hopefully it is the same way of doing it.

patdaly

Could be, they had an option for the big window in 67, fairly rare option......

user name

Its been a while since I've check in here. You're really getting work done. Keep it up and you'll be driving by the time all the snow leaves in June.

bannerd

Removed the rear window last night, is there a complete weather seal kit? I need to redo all the seals in my new doors and then the front window/rear windows (gaskets?).

thrashingcows

Looking good!

As for the cabmounts....yes the short ones go in the front. Washer on top, and very bottom, beneath the nut.

And yes. You can buy a complete weather strip kit. I posted up a bunch of info about ordering these kits a few months back.......think in the window seal thread in the sticky?

bannerd

Thanks cow! I looked at the sticky and I looked around at rockauto. I did find a decent set on ebay which might work;

Complete Weatherstrip Seals Kit Set Truck Door Window for 80-86 Dodge D/W Pickup ($200)

(ebay)

The rear window seal was old and crusty.

bannerd

Ordered a complete gasket kit, it was for a 1986 W250.. I'm hoping it fits my truck. The kit comes with everything I need to re-seal my entire truck. I did purchase some window vent seals and also new wipers for the truck that were dated for a 1980's and they fit perfect. I will let everyone know if this works, even came with the rear and front wind shield gaskets to boot.

bannerd

Well a rather large box showed up at my door step. When I opened it, this is what I found!













A complete gasket set from precision. This was made for a 1980-86 Dodge W250... which my truck is a 1991. I took a stab at this and hoped everything fit. To my good luck, everything fits perfect! This even came with the vent window gasket seals.

bannerd

Saturday I spent the day sanding and removing paint from the rear of the cab. I utilized my stud puller and pull some of the dents as far as they will go.



Paint stripper applied (doesn't remove the grey.. which I think is the factory e-coat. Going to leave that stuff on and sand down to it.





I was talking to a local body guy and showed him that crease. I worked on that for awhile and to my hand it feels level. He asked me what I planned on using for a filler and I mentioned I've been using Evercoat rage as well as evercoat metal glaze to fill in the pin holes. He tells me that Dynatron is a much better product and that evercoat will fall off in a couple of years. Frog in my throat as I've been using evercoat on everything. So if you guys don't mind me asking, what do you think? I don't really see anything about dynatron or where it's the best either. Also, where the top metal is.. looked like some sealer in there? What do you guys suggest? There was some on the drip edge as well..white caulk looked like. I was thinking about grinding it all out, applying etch primer and then a light body seal sprayed before the final paint job.