bannerd

I actually spray FF for a side job so I own 55 gallons of it. I would say I spray half a gallon on cars and a little under a gallon for trucks.

The doors are a hair thicker than the originals. I'm just paranoid because the metal these days is not as good as back then. I had original bolts on this truck and the ones I installed for my gearbox support are rusted really bad. I just put them on last year.

Also, I installed the regulator last night and hooked up my battery to it. The door doesn't flex as much which is a good thing. I already picked out the color of the truck so I can't wait to start laying it down. Majic paint made the delivery last night, I forgot to order their clear coat to protect the paint from UV fading. No details on the color!! it will be a surprise

I did a test sheet on some old inner wheel wells, love the color. I suppose I will have to be careful about taking pictures.

thrashingcows

Well that's all good news...thicker door metal...less flex...and you have tons of FF on hand....

I will be sure to scour the details in the back ground of your pics to see if I can spot your new color....

MARF75

Is fluid film a brand name? Never heard of it and I'm interested.

Been trying to get my truck treated with a product called Oil Gard but the closet place is 2 hours away and the other side of a international border(Sarnia, Ontario).

bannerd

Yes it is,

http://www.fluid-film.com/

You can pick up a gallon on ebay for cheap. Spray or paint brush it on. I have wands that allow me to reach into strange places and apply the sheep oil. The product is made from sheep wool, the oil is resistant to pretty much anything corrosive strange enough. Keep in mind that FF isn't a spray and forget application, you need to check up on it from time to time. Undercoating a vehicle with FF usually last a winter season. Inside the doors is a different story, couple years before a refresh. All because of what that material is exposed to.

KRB

Lanolin? That explains why my sheep never rust.

bannerd

That is the stuff!


Question all.. Upon sanding the top of the cab to bare metal I ran across a sharp crease near the cargo light. It literally looks like a V, I thought about getting my stud gun out and trying to pull it out, but it's so sharp that I know I'll just rip holes into the sheet metal. Not a big deal I'm handy with the mig but there has to be a better way. I have access to it through the cargo light on the back and on the inside of the cab. Maybe take a hammer and whack at the high points? I thought about creating a tool that looks like a gaff or a big "U" and make shifting a slide hammer to help hammer it out.

mknittle

I would find a good patch from a wrecking yard or form one from new metal.Creases stretch the hell out of the area around them and with the thin sheet on these trucks would take for ever to get right.

NJTman

I get about a year with a case of the stuff. I use it a lot, but not gallons of the stuff..

MARF75

Oddly enough, I had never heard of the Fluid Film til this thread.
I was at work yesterday and seen a can in the bosses office, crazy how that kind of thing happens!!

thrashingcows

....weird how circumstances coincide like that.

bannerd

Here we go, weather was freezing but with all the cold I figured I would weld up the rocker panel. The other side has rust as well so I will need to put the cab back on and tackle that.

Little Garage, humble home.




Old Rocker removed:



I tried to drill out the spot welds but what a pain in the rear. If anyone knows a better way to remove them please let me know. I ended up taking a cut off wheel to the old rocker.

Rocker off the CAB







Rear Cab corner, what a awful design here. The metal piece hanging down is suppose to go under the rocker panel and then is caulked in. My idea is to get some RAGE mud on it and smooth this out.



Welded the small spot where I cut into with the cut off.



Rocker Fitment.. not bad or is it?



Well since the bottom was rotted out, I had to fab up and extend the sheet metal below it. I did a over lap weld here since I knew I would be running into the cab backside.

bannerd

Crimps and C-locks and it came out straight, acid etch it and will probably seam seal the weld before the rocker is installed.

Here is the fitment;






Everything looks real good but that ugly cab corner

bannerd

The Rockers are from Sherman, they're a 16guage rocker, really heavy guaged. I was thinking about under coating the inside of the rocker but I might just paint it instead. I see there are two access holes for some fluid film in the long run to get my wands in there. I need to dremel those out where I ran my Lap welds.

patdaly

Wow, the next time I whine about working on mine in primitive conditions, please someone kick me.

My hat is off to you sir, not sure I had the gumption even in my earlier years to do what you are doing a great job at.......

Keep up the good work.

thrashingcows

Wow...that's a big job!! And I agree...Hats off to you for your dedication!! First thing I do with rockers is to pull all the plugs. Then spray the inside with the pressure washer. And then the hose through the winter when the weather allows.
I also use used engine oil into the rockers as well. Usually at the end of summer...after they have cooked in the heat and dried out as much as possible.

I see a gooey NP205...looks a lot like it's covered in FF...