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#1 | ||
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Registered User
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Best upgrades for towing ? ? ?
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#2 | |
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Registered User
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Brake controller.
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1993 Dodge W250 Cummins, G360, Bosch 190's, HE351CW, Timing Spacer, M@ pin, 3" rear brakes, smoke screw out, star wheel up, power screw in a LONG ways Quote:
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#3 |
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Registered User
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Got that thanks !
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Posts: 1,749
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I just went through this..
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/d...l-t303179.html I need to address my rear suspension, as the rear springs are not sufficient for adding a trailer after 20 years without doing so. I'm going to have my rear springs rebuilt and add an air ride system to the rear sector. You should change out your gear oil and switch to a severe duty gear oil such as the 75-140 weights... and don't forget your additive if you have a limited slip diff.
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T. 1992 W250 LE. 518 auto,3200 spring, 4" Diamond Eye, 3" front springs, Derale Deep pan, Linex Bed liner, Jim Lane's headlight relays, LED tail lamps, class 5 hitch / frame strentheners, KDP KILLED, Rear diff Power Lock Spider Gear Clutch pack replaced, Western Plow and a pocket full of receipts |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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All the above, incl synthetic engine oil in the Getrag. I tow somewhat lighter than you, (5th wheel camper trailer) and my most persistent problem has been coolant overheating. This off-season I swapped out the radiator so we'll see what happens this summer.
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'93 D350LE DRW, Getrag G360, LuK 05-073, 800,000km(500,000mi), flat deck w headache rack, air bags over rear axle, synthetic engine/tranny/diff lubes and silicone brake fluid, Vernier hand throttle vrs dead CC, IP adv 3/16", tabbed KDP, gutted FSS, switch/relay circuits for running lights, headlights, fuel switch, elec lift pump, starter sol, air horns and elec rad fan, custom 5th wheel bolted direct to deck, step rails. |
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: South Plainfield, New Jersey
Posts: 7,467
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Replace the brake system and make sure it's working perfect, rears are adjusted, drums are turned straight, shoes are high quality so they won't crack. Make sure the front rotors are good and thick and haven't been cut 10x.
You won't have a problem pulling it. Stopping on the other hand. I'm about to convert to Hydroboost brakes, i'm expecting a drastic improvement when towing.
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91.5 W250 4x4 5 speed LE Red/Grey, 270k miles, 3.54's w/ Power-Lok, 4" Exhaust, BHAF, DennyT Pin, 3200 Spring, Piston LP, Power screw maxed, HX35/12cm, DAP 5x14 Injectors, Valair 13" 550hp K/C clutch, 4" Skyjacker soft-ride lift, 315/75R16 Mickey Thompson Baja ATZ tires, 16-17 MPG 89 D150 3.9L TBI/A999 Auto, beater while ^^^ gets restored Attending LTI for Diesel Truck Technology, graduate December 2013 |
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#7 |
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Starter Sponsor
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Suspension wise you may want to consider adding extra load support for the rear springs depending on how much your truck ends up squatting. You could do this a couple of different ways such as rearching your leafs, replacing them, adding a leaf, or adding air bags.
If you consider air bags and look at our products, the kit for your application would be 57215. If you have any questions regarding adding air I would be happy to help even if they are questions about other companies products.
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Randy at AirLiftCompany.com - Tow & Haul with SAFETY & Comfort NEW LoadLifter 5000 ULTIMATE kits with an exclusive internal jounce bumper! Up to $100 Mail in Rebate: Save $50 on Air Spring Kits and/or $50 on Compressors |
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#8 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Posts: 1,749
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Quote:
Make sure your electric trailer brake controller is functioning and dialed in correctly based upon the load you're hauling. I recently set mine up, and it explained in the instructions that I travel ~25mph, and actuate the brake controller multiple times to where the brakes do not lock up, and sufficient stopping power is applied. Balanced brakes are important, as with not enough on the settings will overtax your braking system, and too much will lock up the trailer brakes each time you apply them. |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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how much do you want to spend?
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90 W250, 4x4 le standard cab flatbed 5spd,duals swap. 400 gal water tank, 75 transfer, big plow new cooper m/s studs, lots of stuff done to it. ugly. no rust still. our Republic is over, don't bother voting in federal elections any longer, spend time preparing, because its coming down around us. |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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I'm willing to spend up to $1000.00
Thanks guys ! |
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#11 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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-Joe 93 D250 Ext. cab, short bed - NV4500, hummer h2 wheels, gauges, 4" DE exhaust, BHAF, pump tweaks, 366 spring, GM Hydro-boost, Taurus electric fan, On board air. |
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#12 |
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Registered User
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Ditto on stopping being the weak link.
I'd invest in some gauges too so you can monitor the systems. EGTs, etc. Have you already overfilled the Getrag? They don't like to be lugged in 5th.
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1992 W250 Club Cab LE, auto OD on shifter, 3.54 limited slip rear, Westach: boost/PT pyro/tranny & oil temp guages on dash, fuel pressure on column; Issopro tach on steering pod, Bosch 190s, Ol' Smoky fuel pin, 366 spring, fuel screw bottomed, pull cable, 1/8" bump, full synthetics, Borgeson shaft, aFe filter w/ swiss-cheesed box, 16cm housing, 4" straightpipe, Derale AT cooler under bed, gooseneck ball, HD bumpers, ton shoes, ext regulator, KDP DOA... 1976 M880 (W200) 1951 B3 Power Wagon |
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#13 |
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Administrator
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Get a good exhaust brake and HD valve springs and let your engine compression stop you, no sense wearing out your friction brakes.
Also gauges, don't want your EGT getting away from you on a grade.
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1991 D-350 LE dually, 727 auto, ps, pb, cloth interior, 6BT, banks exhaust, RAM AIR, Leece Neville 160-amp alt, triple batteries, relay controlled Silver Star headlamps, LED marker lamps, ICC headlamp "flash" switch, grover air horn, full gauges, RED UH-1 cockpit light, 1,000,000 CP unity spotlight, 3000 watt inverter, First Aid crash kit, military style pintle hitch. Lot’s of pictures in my gallery. "Truck Of the Month" for August, 2005 |
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