BearKiller

LOOKING GOOD !!!



New springs all four corners or just the fronts ??

sootnsmoke

Great job! In a previous job I used Metal Prep (Por 15), 2 coats of Por 15 and a final spray of rubberized undercoating. It is a big job, I know. I have the typical frame rust on my current truck but none on the undercarriage sheet metal areas at all. Since I live in Western Washington with no road salting I don't see any progressive corrosive action taking place so I don't worry about it. I know in your neck of the woods the winters will eat your truck alive. Nice truck by the way.

NJTman

Thanks BK (bk.... like Burger king ! )

I did the front for now, as the back are like new. At some point in the future, I'll put the sliders in, but for now it still rides great.

I finished all of the paint work... and I can finally stop getting black paint in my hair.... or maybe I'll just dye my hair black... I dunnoh,
This is what it should look like behind our fuel tanks.... but I'm sure not many do... For the hour to remove the tank, switch the sending unit and spend a few hours cleaning / and protecting the frame, since this is the area that causes so much grief, maybe when someone buys one of these trucks, it should have a sticker on it that says.... Drop your tank... you ****! or maybe not



That diamond eye exhaust is so darned cool. A tight fit.... but cool



I installed a new driveshaft carrier bearing from Rock Auto. New Napa u-joints and it's waiting to be driven again. I dumped the rear diff fluid today as well and filled it up with some new gear oil, oil stabilizer and LTD slip goo. I have a few other odds and ends to do, such as the tranny service, rear brake adjustment, parking brake cable adjustment, and clean it up...



Next is to dump that cap on the box, and get er sprayed in black Linex or Rhino. Haven't decided which one yet.

I'll be good for the winter.


Thanks for all the compliments. Hopefully I've helped someone else here get motivated.


T.

NJTman

Nice... real nice ... rub it in that you live in such a really nice place.... with no salt or worries ....

Must be beautiful up there in (insert savior here)'s country .

T.

AK RAM

What did you "degrease" with? I'm dreading that part more than painting.

Did you spray the rust converter right over your wiring or did you take care to avoid it?

NJTman

My truck had almost no grease under it, other than on the front steering linkage, so degreasing didn't take much time. It was mostly coated with a light dust or film of dirt. I used a standard commercial cleaner available @ Lowes called "greased lightning". Comes in a 5 gallon container, and since it's a mild acid, it etches the rust as a start. Used a 2 gallon pump sprayer to apply. Once it sat for a while, I powerwashed tee entire undercarriage. A few days went by, and a few miles dried everything out before I started working on the derusting...

The only thing I did with the wiring was I pulled the harnesses off of the frame to be able to brush behind them, prime and paint behind them. They just dangled there until I was done painting, which also allowed me to paint in their mounting holes, before returning them back to their original position.

The rust converter doesn't harm anything other than rust or corrosion, (or your eyes, skin or respiratory system) and after it sits overnight, it becomes inert. You do have to take a dry rag an wipe down the drips, though. Once dry, it can simply be primed and painted over.


T.

NJTman

Hey Trendz,

I was thinking.... somewhere along the lines of BK's idea about a fuel tank access panel in the bed, about doing the same thing for these rocker accesses....

Basically creating an access hole through the inner fender wheel well, to be able to enter these cavities without disassembling the truck. A 4" hole saw to remove the fender inner, and then tackweld a outer ring to the removed center hole, drill a few holes in the newly tacked ring, and you now have a removable access for cleaning out your cab rocker corners.


Thoughts on this ?


Reality is, it would only take knowing exactly where the access panel is, to create the new overlay access through the inner fenderwell.

T.

Lucas1

dude get some masking tape and take some pride in what your doing............

iam not going to tell you it looks good ..........well because it doesnt

i love the over spray on your wheel flares

NJTman

Get a life, ..... dude.

This wasn't done for "show" as this is a work truck. The entire point was to preserve the frame and chassis... not promote a trailer queen. I could care less about how the undercarriage "looks" as it's just going to get all mudded up anyway.

Crossy's son

When i had my truck on the lift with the drivetrain out, I scraped all the grease off with a putty knife and then used brakleen to clean it, My frame and brake lines are all like perfect, floors are great, but my cab mounts are rotted badly. go figure.....

for a PA plow truck It's not bad underneath.

Lucas, Leave him alone he uses his truck as a truck and doesn't care what It looks like underneath as long as it doesn't rust away

sootnsmoke

A classic case of missed the point. After a few weeks of salty road time in a New Jersey winter, any over spray on a wheel flare and any non metallic surface will be gone. Corrosive NJ road spray cleans that right up, no masking or pride needed.

Lucas1

iam sorry to me it looks like twenty raddle cans and and hour worth of work and then two hours of posting pictures..

tell you what give me three days and ill post some pics. my box is at the body shop and i planned on cleaning the frame up and you guys can flame me all you want.
and for the record the northern canadian winters from october to march are not easy on a truck.mine sees 15000miles on snow covered roads with two sleds on the deck every year. i also wash my truck three times a week.

i call it hows i see it.............and ive been told its a terrible trait.

Subliminal

I'm kind of surprised you didn't go the POR15 route. They're in Morristown and have pretty decent products for exactly what you're doing.

Looks good though...wish I had what it takes to spend that much time under my truck. When I do...I'm usually fixing something.

BearKiller

As to the road salting issue, I honestly believe that the auto manufacturers provide the salt.


It also doesn't help that 90% of the driving public insists on owning those little front-wheel-drive caskets on wheels that would otherwise have to stay at home where they should on bad days.


Back when I first started driving, in our area, there was one bad hill that they would salt when it really got bad.

They would salt it just before most places started the work-day and maybe again just before work let out for the evening.


Nothing else got any special attention whatsoever and there was hardly ever a wreck due to the snow- and ice-covered roads.


Now, they start spraying some liquid metal-eater days before the least chance of a snow and dump big piles of salt in the middle of every intersection, trying to place it such that no way can one avoid driving through it.

Salt trucks and plows run all day and all through the night.

And, there are numerous bad wrecks and several deaths due to the slick roads (and high-speed idiots with cell-phones) every time it snows.


The "treated road-surfaces" give driver's a false sense of safety and they drive just as stupidly as they always do.


I wish they would revert back to only salting that one bad hill and leave the rest alone.

bannerd

Where I live they use sand, they hardley plow the roads and hands down I get better traction in deep snow than I do on salted/plowed roads. Odd.