12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

You might need to replace your fuel lines if...

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Old 11-26-2006, 07:10 PM
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You might need to replace your fuel lines if...

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http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/..._fuel_line.mpg

Good thing I got that "kit" already. Now's the time to put it on since my injector pump and everything else is already off. I saw the lines, holy cow they're bad. Not so much pinholes, more like an earthquake fault line. :lol:
Old 11-27-2006, 11:06 AM
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Lots of theories going around on why the fuel lines swiss cheese. Once heard that it is caused by a reaction to the engine paint.
My feeling is the stock return hose is cheap and too close to the engine.
I usually replace the lines all the way to the tank and abandon the stock lines but even if I replace just the stock rubber always bypass the hose away from the engine and don't use the hold down at the rear of the block.
Old 11-27-2006, 02:35 PM
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Downloaded the video, can't get it to play, is that just me?

Infidel,
I replaced the rubber fuel lines, not all the way, but half way to the tank, eliminated the steel bradded lines, and all that junk over the transmission. If I didn't tie down the return line at the hold down bracket, at the rear of the block, the line would wag up and down with the fuel pulsations, why do you say don't tie it down?
Old 11-27-2006, 02:41 PM
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Weird, it wouldn't play for me here at work either, but plays just fine at home?

I'll check into it when I get home. Did it work for you Bill? Maybe it didn't upload all the way.
Old 11-27-2006, 06:53 PM
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why do you say don't tie it down?
Should have been more clear. I didn't say not to tie it down, just that I don't use the clamp on the engine. I use cable ties to secure the line in several places. The fire proof USCG hose I use is much thicker than the stock hose and won't fit under the clamp anyway.

Video didn't work for me either, said it was missing code.
Old 11-27-2006, 08:07 PM
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I'm uploading it again...check it now...
Old 11-27-2006, 09:32 PM
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Video worked.
Holly crap, that's some fuel leak!
I'm glad I used the heavy duty USCG hose, that stock rubber line looks like something out of a gasser.
Old 11-27-2006, 10:42 PM
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Just replaced the supply line to the IP 2 days ago on mine - mine was leaking just as bad. I was rather shocked when I looked at the old line up close - cracks everywhere, in fact the rubber was so brittle it broke apart in my hand.
Old 11-28-2006, 11:45 AM
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When my 3500's return hose decided to go it was at least that bad. Only a couple of hard starts till I was 50 miles from home in the middle of nowhere and the fuel gauge started diving faster than the speedo. Luckily I was able to buy some fuel from a farmer out working in his field with tank in his pickup bed.
I used almost a full tank to drive 40 miles.
Old 11-28-2006, 01:04 PM
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Hey at least it's a straight-6 and the exhaust is on the opposite side! I had the feed hard-line let go on my '93 F-250 out somewhere in Tennesse in the middle of the night driving from Mass to Texas...talk about suckage! I had no spare rubber hose with me, and I couldn't get the washer fluid or coolant overflow to fit over the broken line. AAA'd it to a dealership who made me a line, which promptly cracked again not more than 30-40 miles later. Luckily I went to O'Reilly's & Lowes before leaving town to grab all the tools I'd need to fix it myself if it broke again.

Here's the original break:



Here's my repair using diesel-rated line after the replacement line broke too:




Wasn't a fun trip. My dog wasn't too impressed either.
Old 11-30-2006, 07:46 PM
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To those that have done this, wow, you must be contortionists or have eyeballs at the tips of your fingers! I couldn't imagine doing this with the injector pump still in there or the fuel filter! What a PITA. I've found one line so far, still looking for the other one.
Old 11-30-2006, 08:39 PM
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OH yeah...for the record: It's not fun trying to replace these SOB's when it's 24° out either! I'm scared I'm going to crack these new lines trying to get them into place. Found the lines, now replacing the feed line. Trying to determine the best way to do the return line. Attach it to the IP then put the IP pump in and hook it up to the return line...or just put the pump in and the line after, or hook the line up to the return line, then up to the IP once it's in, heck if I know.

All I really know is there's not much room to work wearing this insulated set of cover-alls, and they really limit movement! And I've gotten a wedgie tonight bigger than ever. That, and my fingers are half-working at this point. I need some hot chocolate!
Old 11-30-2006, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave88LX
And I've gotten a wedgie tonight bigger than ever. That, and my fingers are half-working at this point. I need some hot chocolate!

I can see it now, plumbers crack on the side of I-10
Old 12-04-2006, 11:32 PM
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Just a quick tip for you guys.....

The easiest way I have found to replace these lines is to remove the fuel filter first so you have more room, then prop up a flashlight on the top side, then crawl under the truck behind the driver front tire and pop the lines out of the holder on the bell housing. At this point they are much easier to move around and replace.

I've replaced 3 sets so far and this only half way easy way I found to do it.

Hope this helps......Josh
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