gscoker

Hi all, I would appreciate some helping thinking through a problem I am having with my door lock switches. I have a 2005 2500 Diesel w/power locks. Late last winter, the power locks stopped working. They don't work with the remote key fob or with the switch on either the driver or passenger door. The odd thing is that the fob and the door switches still activate the immobilizer.

I have poured through the archives here and while there is a lot of good info that has helped me conduct the following diagnostics:

1. Checked driver/passenger switch and they pass diagnostics
2. Checked door lock fuse
3. Checked driver door wiring loom and all wires have continuity
4. Checked cluster and got an error code report. There was an error for driver door lock switch "open." I have since pulled the cluster fuses and cleared the error code. Now I get no reports when I run the diagnostics.

At this point, I believe that I have a problem with the cluster but that's an expensive road to go down. I suspect that one of the door relays in the cluster is dead. I have not cracked the cluster case and verified this. BTW, who at Dodge thought it would be a good idea to put the relays in the cluster? I can only guess that this is a feature that enhances the security of the immobilizer.

I don't want a used part unless I can get it reprogrammed because the VIN and mileage won't match actual values. There are discount/wholesale parts dealers online but most seem to refuse shipping clusters due to tampering issues even though I can provide a notarized odometer statement. My local dealer wants retail for a cluster. I am frustrated enough that I might just pay it.

Any last ditch ideas? I have thought about buying a used cluster and transplanting the relays. Thanks in advance.

CatDiesel_762

You said you have checked driver door wiring loom and all wires have continuity. To where did you check the continuity to? The door latch switch cab pillar plug? is your readings under .5 ohms? If not, then you have bad switch or broken wire. Are you using a factory service manual procedure that test door locks and switches for function?

I honestly, think you should take a look a little deeper at the looms going into each door. I have had the same problem, but mine have always been a broken wire. So pull back the black boots on the outside of the doors then disconnect the loom from the cab pillar plugs and look for split insulation and completely broken wires. There are pictures on here and on other sites that show such cases. Otherwise, I think when you showed a open code you have a failed drivers door locked switch relay at either the latch or drivers door switch button on the drivers door panel.

Shawn

gscoker

I checked continuity to the door switch from the pillar plug. For checking out the switch, I followed the troubleshooting instructions that someone had posted in this same forum. But, you've got me questioning my self so I will check again.

Problems with the door locks seem to be able to manifest with just one or all of the locks but this doesn't seem to help much in the troubleshooting. The thing that troubles me is that I can activate the immobilizer using the driver/passenger door switch which makes me think that everything in the door is just fine BUT I could be wrong.

Did your immobilizer still work when you had your issues? Did all four locks not respond to the switch/remote?

gscoker

I took the driver door apart this morning and checked that all the wires were in good shape and that I had continuity between all end-points up the the connector at the door pillar. I didn't see any of the wire kinking or broken wires that others have reported. I also have a known working driver door switch that I also tested on a swap-out, no luck. Any ideas guys?

gscoker

I wanted to let everyone know that I have resolved this problem. It was a bad cluster. I ended up having to go to the dealer because of issues related to ordering a new cluster. The cluster is not a mail/internet order part because it contains the VIN and mileage both of which need to be provided as proof to order a new part. I think there are one or two other parts like this on the Ram (body control module might be one). Anyways, I couldn't find a wholesale parts shop within reasonable distance, so I paid the dealer

I have to say the info on this board did help me narrow this problem down. I was able to verify the status of the door switches, wiring loom in the door, and eventually run the cluster diagnostics and prove that the cluster was the culprit.