Devinraptor

I have a problem with my trucks trailer lights. I had been thinking I had a bad trailer bulb until a few mins ago when I put a wire tester to my plug on the back of the truck. I'm only getting about half the voltage I should be out of the left turn. Its not even enough power to light the light, all of the others tested fine. So I traced the wire all the way back to about the front drivers side tire and I tested it again there and it is still only getting half power. Any ideas where the short could be. This truck is equipped with factory wiring. I have never messed with it so I have no clue.

Clinebarger

A short whould blow fuses. most likley a bad conection at the intergrated power module heres a diagram and locations.

Clinebarger

This may not apply to your problem but is good info.




When diagnosing the exterior lighting circuits, remember that high generator output can burn out bulbs rapidly and repeatedly; and, that dim or flickering bulbs can be caused by low generator output or poor battery condition. If one of these symptoms is a problem on the vehicle, be certain to diagnose the battery and charging system, then repair as necessary.
A good ground is necessary for proper lighting operation. If a lighting problem is being diagnosed that involves multiple symptoms, systems, or components, the problem can often be traced to a loose, corroded, or open ground.
The hard wired exterior lamp and lighting circuits may be diagnosed and tested using conventional diagnostic tools and methods. .

However, conventional diagnostic methods may not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the ElectroMechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC), the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM), the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus, or the electronic message inputs used to provide exterior lamp and lighting service or many of the electronic features of the exterior lamp and lighting systems. The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the EMIC, the TIPM, the PCM, the CAN data bus, and the electronic message inputs for the exterior lamps and lighting system requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool

Jeff in TD

On the 2006 trucks if the power module detects power draw above 15 amps on a trailer light circuit, it will cut it off and retry for a while. Then it sets a trouble code and the TIPM disables that particular circuit, until reset by the dealership.

The TIPM can only be reset 5 times, and then it has to be replaced.

There is a TSB for 06's that covers reprogramming the TIPM to set limits to 17.5 amps and prevents it from setting the code that can only be reset 5 times. It also bumps up the allowable current when starting from 75 amps to 100 amps.

Don't know if that's your problem, but if it is better get the TSB done, since the power distribution module is pricy.

Here's a link.

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2006/08-021-06.htm

J BODY

too late for the update. I see a tipm in your future if you want trailer lamps.



.....of course you could just cut the wires and run the trailer off the truck circuits. That will allow someone like me to remove a sizable amount of $$ from your wallet when the excessive amperage load hits your trucks wiring. In other words, as tempting as it is.....don't do it.

"IF" it were mine after the new tipm is installed I would use the trailer lamp drivers from the tipm to run relays for the trailer lamp circuits. Done correctly that will put it back to "old school" where if you have a trailer lamp issue it will merely blow a cheap fuse that you installed in your "homemade" wiring harness. The TIPM won't see excessive load since it's only driving a relay.

w.tx iceman

Sounds like that would be a good thing to do when you first get the truck, you are bound to have wiring trouble on a trailer down the road.

Jeff in TD

So once the TIPM trips and shuts down a circuit once, it's toast and too late to do the reflash?

If so, I didn't realize that, and probably need to see if the reflash has been done on my 06...

Devinraptor

Thanks for all the input. So in other words I should get the truck fixed and then install some in-line fuses on the truck for the trailer turns?

Devinraptor

goth the truck back from the dealer they told me it needs a new module and its going to be $912, does this sound right. Oh while it was in there they told me I need new ball joints $1466. Needless to say I almost had a heart attack.

ken white

No way I would pay those prices...

Devinraptor

I found another place to do the ball joints for 800. But what should I do about the module?

davidj54

Several people have installed a Modulite and bypassed the IPM. That's probably your cheapest way out. Here's a thread about how to do it. modulite-trailerlight-module-installed

There's also a thread where robbynne repaired one. Here's the link to it. https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=222371

There are actually two parts to the repair. Do a search for Power Distribution Center (PDC) and you find both parts and another related thread.

Devinraptor

I ordered the modulite. I hope it works this thing could end up saving me like 900 hundred bucks thanks for everyone's help.