belliott

bought a 2005 dodge ram 3500 back in december. truck ran real good and still does. Check engine light came on about a month ago, wastegate solenoid circuit, fan clutch and fan speed codes all set. truck still ran fine. Once i started looking into repairing the problems is where all the fun began. First thing i noticed was the fan clutch wiring harness had been cut off, then i find the wastegate solenoid wires cut and twisted together againest the block. Inspected turbo and realized that it was a BD turbo an bot the stock turbo. i replaced the fan clutch, bought a new wastegate solenoid, repaired the harness and grounded the solenoid. Now do i still need a smarty to disable the wastegate solenoid to keep the check engine light off. Next question, what temp should the fan fully engage. I have only got the fan to engage with the ac on so im not sure if i might still have a problem with the fan clutch are if it might be the connector for the fan. I put on a aftermarket fan clutch and not a oem clutch

belliott

nobody has any ideas are thoughts on this

wannadiesel

I'm going to move it over the 3rd gen drivetrain for more exposure.

madhat

There should be the OEM wire going to the turbo still, I know that my HTT came with a shorting plug, you should just be able to jumper them together, or you could order a plug from a trubo dealer. Don't quote me on this, but the 05's should be the same with the electronic wastegate.

I'll look at the fan speed sensor, (that could be bad), but the fan does not 'kick on', it is a viscois fluid driven clutch, electronically controled. I only hear mine if I am going down hill with the cruise on, and the truck down shifts, or sometimes on cold mornings for a moment or two. Are you having an overheating problem, or just never hear the fan?

I believe (could be wrong) that you can use someone else's smarty to turn the WG off without vin locking it to your truck. Kinda fuzzy on that.

If I don't post some diagrams and info for the fan clutch in a day or so, shoot me a PM, I'll get that stuff to you.

HTH.

belliott

i looked at the wiring schematics on alldata. the computer was showing 99% fan duty cycle but the fan wasnt coming on. i rewired the wastegate solenoid and strapped to the engine so it would ground. after doing that the fan would engage but only when the air conditoning is on. im not sure if the engine temp just isnt reaching a high enough temp now for the ecm to engage the fan.

so i do need to turn off the wg monitor in the ecm to stop the check engine light from coming on because of the aftermarket turbo.

im more of a ford man, but after having to work on the 6.0l and 6.4l everday i chose not to continue the torture and buy a ford for myself. i have worked on cummins diesels in the past but only in heavy equipment so im not as up to speed as i am on the fords or caterpillar or macks/volvo engines so any help is very appreciated.

belliott

the temp has ran up to 240 while at stop lights

madhat

Ok, then you definatly have a problem there. I barely got my truck to break 200 pulling uphill.

I'll post the info for the fan when I get home, it will probably be tomorrow.

madhat

By the way, what were the codes from the CEL? If you don't know how to check them, look here:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...s-t224833.html

belliott

P0243 wastegate contol circuit
P0480 fan clutch
p0483 fan speed

right now the only code that is set is P0243
it has only hit the 240 mark that one trip. that was just an empty truck, not towing anything.

madhat

I PM'd you the pages out of the pub... I do not have 0243 in my pub... probably a later code than the pub I have.

Smithereen

On the big cummins truck engines the fan kicks on at 205 F. My truck engages the fan around 95 C on the guage, which is around 205 F.

NickBeek

I seem to remember that the fan should engage at around 210, maybe 205. Here comes a basic question, so don't be offended. Have you checked the coolant level and system for leaks yet. If the fan operates with the A/C and your not getting codes again I believe you have it licked. Now I found out when I changed my coolant these engines like to hold an air bubble in them, so if it ever overheated that could be causing your temp issues.

For the aftermarket turbo, most companies offer a plug that plugs into the harness and that has a resistor in it to fool the ECM.

madhat

Nick, good point.

It the coolant was ever flushed, there may be an air bubble in it, which will cause it to over heat.

If the stuff I sent you does not work, I would flush the rad and refill. I can help you with the proper procedure on that, too.

belliott

checked everything one more time today. wiring connector on the fan clutch to the main harness was not making a good connection. repaired that connection and now the fans apperars to be operating correctly. fan will engage between 195 and 205 without the ac on and the fan rpm's went up to about 2500. according to the datastream readings on my genisys scantool. thanks for the help

Hvytrkmech

You should not be seeing fan actuation for cooling until the ecm see's 208- 210*. It will engage under that if you have the a/c set to max. In all reality your fan should almost never have to come on at 100% to cool the engine unless you are towing in a hot climate. If it is engaging during everyday driving and you do not have you a/c on max then I would suggest you have another issue.