CONFEDERATESON

has anyone ever tried to wire lock the stock gov. spring or replace it with some type of linkage? i saw a video of someone on you tube do it to a vw pump and it got me thinking. what would be the down side to this besides floating valves?...but if you had the right valve springs how fast could you actually turn the little ve? i was just thinking the faster you can turn it the more fuel you could get out of it? am i wrong?

mullishacrew

i would think you would need alot of fuel to keep up so you dont dry your pump out from lack of fuel as well

CONFEDERATESON

i agree, i was thinking this could be done with the 14mm head/rotor or in place of it but with the same supporting mods for people who did want the hassle of the 14mm? but still have decent dd power...

Crossy's son

Sounds like destruction to me.

the VE does no start flowing more fuel in higher rpms. it flows less in high rpms.

CONFEDERATESON

im not sure i understand brandon? correct me if a am wrong but going with a bigger gov. spring like the 3200rpm or bigger alows you to fuel to higher rpm via a tighter coiled, shorter spring. so in theory makeing the travel distance between the connections smaller with linkage or unallowing the stock spring to stretch would allow more fuel at higher rpm correct?

Crossy's son

Yes but my point is the VE dies off at a certain point...like lets say over 3500 rpm. For every truck with a certain amount of mods it seems different.

The 93 really starts to just make noise after about 3400, its done pullin'. The VE pump itself actually becomes the restriction in the fuel system if that makes sense....

With a 12mm street VE i just don't see the point in anything more than a 3200 spring.......wiring the governor will mean there is no governor and it'll just rev to xxxx (I hope my theory is right.)

The 3200 spring just gives better use of the power range of the VE ....why the factory didn't do it? who knows, but the VE is good with a 3200 spring. The 4000 spring just seems pointles

jimbo486

if you decide to wire it, you'd better install 60lbs valve springs first. intake AND exhaust. i don't know how many people i try to educate about that, but they seem to think that you only need to do exhaust valves because "that's what they heard." i try to tell them you only do 60lbs exhaust valves springs if you're using an exhaust brake. you do ALL valve springs if you're planning on turning near or over about 3600RPM because the valves begin to float around about then. they still don't believe me and continue to say "that's not what i heard." guess people need more than one person to convince them rather than believing the one person who visits the forum every couple of hours EVERY day and reads stories of other's mistakes. had to rant just a bit

CONFEDERATESON

ok brandon i get you now, i was not sure how it would effect fueling but what you say makes sence. and thank you for edumakateing me on the gov. deal...you know allot about these trucks so im sure what you are saying is right. i need to learn more about these pumps so one day i can anwser my own questions lol.

jimbo-i get what you mean, i have some friends like that i just thought ide ask cause we all know you cant learn anything without asking questions.

wannadiesel

You are likely to break something (governor lever most likely) inside the pump, and the length needs to be perfect or it will not idle at all. This is a bad idea, why not try a trimmed 4200 RPM spring if you want to spin it higher? If you are just looking for big HP numbers, look other places than more RPM. The VE makes peak HP around 3k no matter what governor spring you use. For pulling it is useful to be able to spin up way past peak HP, but for hot-rodding around there's no point.