DodgenIt

Hey all.
So last summer I started to get high water temps so did some searching.
Ended up pulling the radiator (covered with oil from puke bottle) cleaned it, full flush, all new coolant. And new thermostat. Temps were back to normal.
Till about a month ago water temp started to get high again. Just over 190 while normal driving. Around 210 towing anything.
So just to be sure, last weekend I checked rad, totally clean. Moved my over flow bottle down below the fan anyway. And put in a new thermostat then topped off with new fluid from draining a little.
Now temp is high like crazy. Check gauges light coming on, peging water temp needle while just sitting in traffic. I don't get it. Coolant is clean, new thermostat, clean radiator.
Why am I getting so hot? Egts are never over 1000.
Any help would be great.

rebal

might just be the sender I have seen that before .Are you sure the truck is hot? use a temp gauge and test it .

Totallyrad

And is your fan kicking in?

DodgenIt

Previous to the new thermostat over the weekend the fan was always running trying to cool things down. I'm not sure about today, it was running normal with the belt, but couldn't pay for sure if it was kIcking into over time cause I was so focused on the gauges And new trans.
The truck is for sure hot. I pulled over as soon as I got through the light it peaked at and everything under the hood was too hot to touch. For sure hotter then normal driving hot.

Polaraco

Let's do some forensics.

What did you do to cause it to start spiking? Replaced the T Stat again right? Put the old one back in.

If it's intermittant, it's usually a sticky stat. Also, be sure your lower rad hose is hard and solid. If it feels spongy, change it. It should have a spring in it to prevent collaps. If you replace it, ask the parts guy for a spring. You can't do that at auto zone though. Those jokers will look at you like you have 6 heads.

BRO

Are you sure the radiator is not blocked from the puke bottle build up. I pulled mine and could not believe the amount of gunk on the radiator and the trans cooler. I could not see the build up of gunk just by looking at it. I had to take it apart to clean it and the area up. Could be your problem.

samaf

I would suggest using a name brand thermostat. I have had trouble with the stat brand. Had the same trouble you have in a gas engine when I used the stat thermo. good luck and let us know what you find

Totallyrad

It's also not uncommon to get an air pocket when changing the thermostat.

DodgenIt

Thanks for the replys guys.
Like a tard I through away the old one when I replaced it, But I was running high temps before the new t stat too.
I have a new Cummins 180 t stat on it way and A new rad cap. The front and back of the rad are very clean, maybe I'll end up pulling it to get the middle anyway.
I left the rad car off and ran it for a minute to get any air out, is there something else I can for for air bubbles?.
I'll check for pressure in the bottom hose when I get home.
Also noticed it's a little wet around my water pump so that'll be next if new t stat and cap Don't fix it.

Polaraco

Unless the fins have rotted off the pump, a leak won't cause over heating. It's just a seal.

You need to check that hose when it's cold or cool. NOT under pressure

DodgenIt

Well I have 97 k miles, and I bought it with 42 so I'm nearly sure it's The original water pump. Could that be enough time to kill the fins?

While cool both top and bottom rad hoses are soft.
The bottom one should be hard while the truck is off and cool huh. sigh, Add one more thing to the list.

Polaraco

If the fins were gone, you'd have a ton of rust in the block. I haven't seen an impeller rotted off in years. It's not likely.

That;s the hose I said put the hose in. That's the suction hose for the block.

BigIron70

Radiator or fan clutch I would think most common cause. Is temp constant across radiator or are there cold spots? Does the fan spin easy with your hand with little or no resistance? Engine not running of coarse.

nothingbutdarts

xx2

DodgenIt

You mean hose with the spring? I can feel the spring in there keeping it from collapsing. The hose is just not under pressure while cold. While hot, the bottom hose has a little more pressure, and the top hose has blot more pressure.

I'll check tomorrow over the rad and see if there are hotter and cooler spots.
What would the best way to bleed air out be?