CruisingRam

Well, the subject speaks for itself- I don't think I will ever want to go over 325hp 600ft lb range- I just want to be stronger than any of the stock diesels made, and not much more.

What are the parts needed to accomplish this on a 98 12v?

DZLPWR

My guess would be, fuel plate, bigger exhaust housing 14cm, injectors, tranny work, straight pipe, BHAF. You should be good to go with that. Pretty cheap for a nice HP gain. And of course, guages first.

BoldtsWagon

What DZLPWR said, plus a governor spring kit.

CruisingRam

Okay- slang stop again here- BHAF? The bigger exhaust housing- you talking about the turbo itself, like changing out half the turbo- or the pipe from the exhaust manifold to the turbo?

turbo thom

My guess is when you get to 325 HP your torque will be a good bit over 600. A spring kit- 3000, #10 plate, 215 injectors, 4" exhaust, and the pump feeding at 233 CC's, I'm at 308 HP and 750 lbs lbs torque. More than I ever need towing. 15,000 lbs most of the time. A very good power level, for an old man.

..Preston..

CruisingRam

Does anyone make a complete kit for those mods, so I could do it all in a weekend with no need to run or wait for further parts?

1320

to only get to 600 ft lbs, just a plate.....about 150 -200$

do all the regular stuff.....$1000 -$2000


800 to 1000 ft lbs........

1320

You have to do the KD fix.......and be prepared for a 5th gear nut fix, probably at somepoint.

Most of the vendors can supply it all.....choices, 3000gsk or 4000gsk.....(you get valve springs with 4000) so if you plan on a exhuast brake you will need em.
275's, 300's 370's.........talk to some vendors, find the one or ones you like and try em out.

Or look, hunt and wait for used stuff.

Forrest

Simply find the hp / torque you want on this table:

http://www.piersdiesel.com/CamPlate.htm

DZLPWR

BHAF- Big honkin air filter. It replaces the whole airbox with a giant filter. Do a search and you will find descriptions and part #s.
The exhaust housing is on the back side of the turbo (yes, the half) the rusty side. It will help control the higher EGTs encountered with adding more fuel.
Do a search on "KDP" (Killer dowl pin), and "5th gear nut". You will find loads of info on both. Nothing major, just fix them before they become major, especialy the KDP.
Getting 325hp is doable on the weekend as long as you have the parts needed when changing out the new parts. Most vendors can help you out with getting all the right pieces. Build the kit yourself. Just do some research on the tools needed and the procedures. www.dodgeram.org has good info.

SmokinDodge12V

CruisingRam it wont take much at all to have more power than any new stock diesel because those are only flywheel hp and tq #s.

CruisingRam

I am ordering the jig for the KDP- about 10 of us plan on doing the deal on that one- no 5th gear nut- got an auto- plan on getting the DTT trans/TC- actually, my first mods will be 1) Gauges 2) Tranny 3) paint job LOL

Then bombing occurs after that LOL- I have made quite a few race cars, and I like to have a listed plan in place before even teh first purchase!

CruisingRam

So are the new diesels rated at the wheels or the flywheel? I just want to slightly beat the newest diesels, not run 11s!

SmokinDodge12V

As far as I know they always advertised the HP and TQ#s that is made at the flywheel, so it sounds like it has a lot of power.

db

Look at any dyno #s done on the new 600s then you'll have the targeted hp/trq range you are wanting.

But hey if your getting a DTT (the expensive part) & gauges just go for a drivable 450+/1000 range that those DTTs have proven that they can handle.

db