BearKiller

Other than the fan-shroud and the fuel-tank fill-hose, what is in the way of a two-inch body-lift on the son's truck??

Has anyone on here done one??

Please educate me on what un-expected situations we may get into.

Thanks.

1stGen545

You will need a telescoping stearing collom. I put a 3" on mine and now 38x15.50's will just barly rub 36x12.50 clear fine. Mine cooles fine with now shroud. Put WD-40 on the bed bolts for a few days befor you start. The pic is with the 38's

ryan10

you will have to cut your intercooler boots also if the truck is intercooled

maxx250

Does someone make a body lift for our trucks or did ya'll have to make one up yourself? If so what did you use for blocks etc?

LOGAN

please dear god DO NOT MAKE A BODY LIFT, if you do please dont reproduce, they are 100 bucks for our trucks and come with everything you need to make it work, dont risk your life and others by doing this. most new kits come with a steering extension, almost every truck gets one now wether they need it or not.

BearKiller

Honestly, I don't know why anyone wouldn't make their own body-lift.

Everyone I ever installed was only longer hardware store bolts and a plastic riser-block for each body-mounting point.

Simplicity in itself; I see no way anyone could mess up, making riser-blocks out of whatever, wood--even--would be as stout as the plastic ones that come in store-bought kits.

As to the steering-shaft, it is nearly a given that the stock shaft gets tossed and, either a Borgeson or Flaming River, gets put in, taking care of the short/wore-out steering shaft problem, much better than any so-called extension that would come in a factory kit.

This has just been my experience.

EClancy

i have honestly made body lifts out of hockey pucks. they work great, dont rot, are very dense and strong, and even may help reduce vibration a bit. i see no problem with homemade body lifts, if done sensibly.

BC847

* Lengthen the column shifter linkage.
* Re-adjust the 4X4 shifter boot.
* Keep an eye on the two brake line coils just below the master cylinder (they'll have to stretch).
* Reset all the aftercooler ducting.
* Reset both radiator lines.
* Check trans cooler plumbing.
* Check the AC refrigerant plumbing.
* Check the trans and engine oil dip-sticks.
* Check steering shaft as mentioned.
* Check fuel tank fill and vent tubing.
* Remake a fan shroud.

Your mileage may vary.

Hope this helps.

LOGAN

And when you meet that nice man in the uniform with the big hat on his head and the pistol on his side, he will have your truck red tagged til you get it fixed. DOT does not like when people build things like that, they are ILLEGAL. those "plastic" blocks are crush rated at over 90,000 PSI, a hockey puck isnt and neither is a wood block, ive seen wood blocks split in half when you drill through them, sounds like something i want to use to hold my truck body together. that company, probably Performance Accessories, has put countless hours of testing and R&D into making those things so they are DOT approved and safe, i would thin kthey would know what they was doing, they've done it for 20 years, if anything just buy the blocks, they are like 5 bucks a piece or something off ebay and use them on the cab, use washers or hockey pucks or whatever for the bed, and go to the store and buy grade 8 hardware. i have seen too many bad accidents from stuff like this and i dont want too see someone killed cause someone decided to rig something together. for the safety of your son, wife, you and everyone else, DO NOT DO IT. sorry if i ****** anyone off, i am just a real stickler for safety, i worked at a race track for 4.5 years and seen too many people almost die cause of ignorance.

BearKiller

Not to start a flame war and not to step on any one's toes; BUT, the body-lift under my F-350 did, in fact, come from Performance Accessories = $89 plus shipping.

The bolts supplied with the kit are head-stamped Grade 2.

I didn't use these overly engineered bolts, as I thought they would be a little too much over-kill for the situation at hand; so, I walked across the street to ACE and replaced them with more suitable Grade 5 bolts of the proper length.

Thanks for your concerns for my safety.

BearKiller.

jslamerman

DO NOT use Grade 8 bolts on a road driven body lifted truck. I dont want a war in this thread, BUT......the reason is shear strength. The lower grade bolts tend to bend, and stretch alot before breaking. The stronger Grade 8 bolts take ALOT more, and would be MORE than adequate in all but that 1/2% situation out of 100, but I would want a grade5 or the like in a severe front or rear collision that puts huge forces on the body mounts, that now show more leverage. In an offroad vehicle, Id do Grade 8 in a heartbeat, but not on a street truck.

MikeThomas

Hmm, this is kinda a heated post. I think im going to do like I did for a jeep of yesteryears and machine some one inch thick aluminum spacers for enough lift to ease a GN plate. Never had any probs on that jeep...I second the G-5 bolts... though the G-8 are stronger in many ways, they are theoretically brittle compared to the fives....i'd like them to bend before shear.

simplysmn

Body lift kits are cheap to Buy go get one you do Not have to extend you boots for your inercooler the main area's you need to watch are steering and brake lines if you are a auto trans the shift rod had to have a piece put in to make it longer I have had my body lift on my truck and it has even lasted through a roll over accident and survived bent bolts yes broken anything no are they safe yes here is some pictures of mine now this is a 3 inch body lift along with 8 inch front springs running 325-85 R 16 tires and it doesnt hit what so ever http://www.slide.com/r/5Fc1swrk7z_CDNSNofSr7eS2GRlJrssA