Viesel

I had the 216 code for about 6 months now and the engine has lately been stalling all the time and getting worst. I changed the filter 2 times in the last week, changed the lift pump from the carter pump located at the tank to the new stock LP at the engine, after swapping LPs, still no change. So then I hooked up both pumps in line and still the engine is stalling. I know I got pressure I checked to see if there was air in the lines and there was none and plenty of fuel pressure. I changed the boost pressure sensor a few months ago and also a new tpps a while ago. I am not getting any codes now that the vp44 is new but the stalling and sputtering is still happening. At idle it will start to run rough and then just shut down. Then its real hard to start and then it will be fine for a 1/2 mile or so and then start sputtering again and sometimes shut down and sometimes clear back up. This has been getting worst for about a month now and I can not figure it out.
I did notice that the new VP44 gave me a huge amount of power increase from the old one.
Has anyone got any ideas.

Rauschbo

Sounds like the fuel delivery is intermittent; You're probably on the right track looking for pinhole air leaks from the tank to the IP; Do you have a FP gauge in yet? It would be instructive to see if the FP is steady, or if that where the inconsistency is.

You might ck the seals on the fuel filter canister to verify that you're not getting a leak there...The injectors might be plugged, as well - do you run any kind of additive? I believe the PW and Stanadyne fluids are pretty good at keeping the injectors clean.

You might clean the MAP and IAT sensors, while you're in there.....(IAT for sure, not sure if the MAP sensor is responsive to cleaning)....

Keep us informed on your progress!

Rauschbo

Viesel

This morning I left with the truck and before I did I took the fuel cap off to make sure the tank was getting vented enough and it still left me on the side of the raad 3 times in 4 miles. I wonder if the LP has a relay of some sort that is going bad. Does anyone know if it does and where it is? Seems like when the engine dies and I cant restart it I dont hear the pumps running I have both hooked up (carter at tank and stock at engine both are fairly new) The carter makes a noticable noise even with traffic going by me on the side of the road. There had got be a timer or relay for these LPs ... does anyone know?
This has been pi$$ing me off so much that I am almost ready to just go buy a newer truck. Anyone want this one?

nitrousn

Do you have a fuel pressure guage?

Viesel

just one that I can hook up at the engine and check it but not one that I can put in the truck and drive and watch it. Maybe I can find one cheap to temp install in the cab.

nitrousn

With the known fuel supply problems it would be a good idea as well as a tool in diagnosing your problem.

Mike D

Hook up your gauge and have someone bump the starter, (doing this will run the pumps for 30 seconds) and let us know how much fuel pressure you have. If you're running two pumps inline, you should have somewhere around 27 psi.

yarddog

Spend the $60 and get FP gauge. It could save you a lot of guessing and money in the long run.

Viesel

I ran a wire from the pump to the cabin annd watched the volts as I drove and when the truck died the voltage was still 12.9. The pumps I am running are not very old at all and the stock one was mounted but not hooked up so I could use it in case of an emergency. Well, it seem like it didnt help in this case. It has to be the pumps, I orderd a gerotor pump from summitracing.com and I will grab a gauge to mount inside as soon as I can get to it.

I almost wondered if I waisted $1200 on the VP44 but it did clear the code and also it runs like a scaulded dog now. I always thought that this truck was seriously under powered. The new pump is like a huge upgrade to what I am use to. I guess money wasnt wasted, it needed it anyways. It was actually fairly easy to change. I did it in 3 hours last night.

I will install the new lift pump tomorrow (paid for over night freight) and see if that helps.

Wheres a good site to get a fuel gauge and pod?

dodgetech77

Sometimes the Orings om the fuel tranfer tubes go bad and cause and internal leak and gives you someof the symtoms you described

Viesel

I changed all the fuel lines from the tank forward last fall.

Viesel

Well I guess it always comes down to the lift pump. Both of mine were only a few months old and the stock one was not in use and only for a back up and I finally found out what the problem was. The Carter lift pump would runnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn sput sput sput sput runnnnnnnnnnnnnnn sput sput sput sput and runnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn sound like the bearing were worn out. The stock pump would make all kind of eratic noise. I installed this pump http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku and whamo! it runs like a champ now. I guess I was doubting that a carter pump that was only a few months old would have been bad but it was. I have determined that they are just as much junk as the stock pump which are practically the same.
Let see how this gerotor pump will do. The new one is much quieter too.

nitrousn

I cant stress to you how important a fuel pressurs guage is. It eliminates a lot of the needlessly replaced parts.

SSminnow

Anyone have pics of where they tapped into for a fuel pressure gauge? Also, what fuel pressure should the lift pump be at???? Are you guys leaving the stock lift pump in place AND running the extra pump like the Holley above??? Or, are you removing the stock lift pump????

yarddog

I put a tapped banjo under the fuel canister for the FP gauge, it's the best place IMO. If you tap off the VP you can get annoying pulsations.

I took the stock intank pump out and replaced it with a fuel pick tube and put a Walbro inside the frame rail. I'm seeing 18 idle 14 WOT. Per the guys at Industrial Injection a VP shouldn't see more than 20 psi. I didn't ask them the lowest but I wouldn't want to be under 10 psi.