Diesel-Dan

Number 6 did not come out in one piece.....popped out the tip with compression.....but housing is still stuck in the head.......i am soo ****** at my self right now it hurts! :'( :'( :'( Any suggestions?!!?!?!?! ever happen to anyone else...or am i the only looser in this game!

Don M

Im confused. The tip is out but the injector is still inside the engine?

You tried to use the engines compression to pop the injector out?

I cant see how the compression would harm the injector. Unless it poped out and went flying somewhere.

I use a bolt to screw in to the injector body and lift and tug on the bolt while I hold the connector tube away with the other hand.

Diesel-Dan

well...its lots worse than that. We tried to pop the injector out with a Dodge lug nut screwed down on the top of the threads (Which worked quite well) of the injector. It worked on 4 and 5 quite well. BUT 6 it didn’t budge at all!!!! and i thought that was weird. My possible mistake was getting a bigger bar that gave more leverage. I think that pushed the top of the injector body over too far and at the part they screw together, it broke!!!!!!! we got the top half out fine. BUT the bottom half is still stuck in the head. The "inners" were still in the bottom half and that is what we popped out with compression. BUT the sleeve still remains in the head. We have tried EVERYTHING to no avail! We even cut an easy out down to fit into the bottom hole with out touching the head and didn’t budge....broke my tapping tool as a matter of fact! I don’t know what would cause this lower body to seize this bad! My next option is to try to carefully heat it....maybe loosen up the gunk and grime around it. This simple job has turned into a Nightmare!!!! So much for my first injector job! Guess it can’t get any worse! : :-

Bob Wagner

when injectors are hard to remove, I've heard large carbon deposits could be the problem.

I feel your pain

Diesel-Dan

............its starting to look like head removal...... :'( :'(

Ramflasher

[quote author=Bob Wagner link=board=16;threadid=22865;start=0#msg214402 date=1069859164]
when injectors are hard to remove, I've heard large carbon deposits could be the problem.

[/quote]

I've changed out about 40 sets or so in 24 valves, and I have found this to be the case. I don't know a lot about the 12 valve injectors, but it sounds as if you are right in thinking the head may have to come off. The good news is that with the head off, you could look down in the cylinder and assess anything else that may need attention.

Have you thought about calling an expert? I would recommend Piers and crew...

www.piersdiesel.com

vssman

If you have to pull the head, you might as well have it o-ring'd.

Diesel-Dan

even if the only performance item are going to be the injectors? This is a custs truck and we are tring to figure out how to get him to pay for the parts if needed to be done!!! MAN! this sucks!

Palmetto_kid

[quote author=Mudinford link=board=16;threadid=22865;start=0#msg214485 date=1069869101]
even if the only performance item are going to be the injectors? This is a custs truck and we are tring to figure out how to get him to pay for the parts if needed to be done!!! MAN! this sucks!

[/quote]

you want the customer to pay for the parts? and you broke it?

just wondering for who, or where you work so I can steer clear of that place.

Diesel-Dan

shoot that aint the issue...i need to get this dang thing out of the head! We are going to try some more crap....but not looking good.......this thing is stuck...like no other i have ever seen. Doenst make any since.......

RCW

Is this a 24 valve injector, the one where you pull the tube with the O-ring before you pull the injector? Since the tube has to be out to release the body, I will assume that is the case.

Shoot a bunch, and I do mean a bunch, of carbon solvent in the piston, let it run out the exhaust valve. Then take a tap, grease it to hold as much of the threading metal as you can, and thread the remaining injector body and plug it with a bolt.

Use some more carbon solvent on the outside of the plugged injector, and blast it with some PB Blaster penetrating oil to get the solvent really working.

Take the rest of the day off.

Come back tomorrow and slowly turn the engine over to get the solvent out of the piston. Take a 2X12 long enough to cover the injector, wrap it with a bunch of rags or cover it with a blanket, toss another two or three blankets over the engine, and when the cylinder is reasonably dry, crank it over with the starter. Watch out! The injector body will come flying out of there like a bullet and the blanket will catch it!

Be sure all the other injectors you do not want flying around are bolted down.

Be sure you change the motor oil and filter after you are done, or the rear main will get eaten by the carbon cleaner.

Diesel-Dan

That is our plan "B". BUT this is a 12V number 6 injector....hardest one to get too. BUT we are going to try to tap the lower injector body with a tap and put a bolt in it. Just seems real odd that this thing is just stuck soo dang bad. Its should be a loose fit.....but its broke several sockets on the taps we have used.....its tight.......unusually tight from what i have read....i dont know....im just sick!

Haulin_in_Dixie

[quote author=Palmetto_kid link=board=16;threadid=22865;start=0#msg214488 date=1069869717]
[quote author=Mudinford link=board=16;threadid=22865;start=0#msg214485 date=1069869101]
even if the only performance item are going to be the injectors? This is a custs truck and we are tring to figure out how to get him to pay for the parts if needed to be done!!! MAN! this sucks!

[/quote]

you want the customer to pay for the parts? and you broke it?

just wondering for who, or where you work so I can steer clear of that place.
[/quote]

Palmento, this not quite that simple. You work on others vehicles for profit. If the mechanic is not guilty of neglegence than the customer is liable to some degree. Now and then a mechanic or a shop takes a bath on a job. One time I had a ford 302 come in for a tuneup. One cylinder was missing. I got her back down to the shop and quoted her on a valve job as it had no compresson on that cylinder. She was doubtful and hesitent, but accepted. After tearing it down it was found that the piston on that cylinder was not moving, it had sheared a rod close to the crank. Far as she was concerned she was getting ripped off. Put it back together at a total loss of parts and labor. By all that is right she should have paid for the labor and parts, it was her car, not mine and her car had the problem. These things happen.

Diesel-Dan

Again i am getting off subject but i agree...it’s a wash. It is not my fault that the injector was soo gummed up that its froze up to the point that it would not move, and brakes before it comes out…even with the right tools! Anyone that works on trucks or cars will tell you that things will not always go by the book. I could just say the leaking valve cover had a lot to do with the injector and just tell him he needs to cover the whole thing. BUT i am going to do it no labor and parts at cost...i am not going to benefit on this problem. In fact, he is getting a pretty good deal. New head gasket, valves lashed, head cleaned up and inspected in and out....for what: install of injectors and price of parts. That’s it! I have never had this problem and probably never will again.......This thread was started to help me with my problem at hand, not to question my business practices. This is all I am going to say about this….i got bigger fish to fry in my pan right now!

RCW

OK, 12 valve, I looked at your signature and wondered why it was in the 12 valve section.

They are a little different, but the process is about the same.

Again spray the body with PB Blaster and then take a brass punch and give the remaining injector body a real solid whack to start the penetrant working. Fill the cylinder with carbon solvent and take the rest of the day off.

Then use the thread it, bolt it approach, and a slide hammer on the bolt to pull it. Because it is always the one you cannot reach that sticks, you may have to try and blow it with compression if you cannot get a slide hammer in to reach it.

The proper way is to lower the engine, just like you do if you have to remove the head, to get enough space to reach the injector. But, I am a farmer, so do it the common sense way and go through the cowl and cut a hole in the body above the injector with a hole saw, and then plug it with a plastic body plug when I am done. That gets the slide hammer in line with the injector body.