genros

Does anyone on this sight or others have power over say 450+ and drives there truck everyday. Maybe even plowing and or pulling with it? Id love to hear from ay as far as have any of you sacrficed any of the driving style, fuel consumption, reliability?
ive been told not to push to big a turbo to make over 425 and im unsure of how reliable and cost of twins. Can i still plow with twins and som on?
what is a cummins capable of hp and torque before its tom much ( for a stock engine that is)

justinp20012500

16 to 18 mpg around town (box on KILL) in heavy traffic. 20 to 22 mpg on the freeway (as long as you keep it at 70 or below)

Sees 60 psi almost everyday. I put on 800 miles a month.

I pull a small boat (5400lbs) occasionally.

I drag race at the track maybe once a month.

With the fueling box off, and just the injectors and the EZ the pyro will reach 1000* pre turbo and cool to about 950 and hold steady.

With the box on kill I will see 1300*

When you increase the boost pressures like that you have to do something about the head gasket. You will also finding yourself getting really good at replacin intercooler boots.

Yes you can still plow with twins.

As for the max power of a ISB with the stock bottom end??? Hard to tell, some guys are running 800HP

gunracer1

i had my hx35 at right around 450 rwhp and it was a towing machine. i could get the egts real hot if i wanted to but all i had to do was back off a bit. 300 rwhp will tow about anything you can hook up to. and when towing i just drove light on the pedal. i have a hx55 on it now and it is a great dyno queen, it would suck to tow with it. but it is a monster from 3k up. but i can't shift the 6 speed fast enought to really make it a killer. but i am going to a set of twins also. they are the best all around that i have driven. but it seems once you get over 400rwhp stuff starts to break. not the motor, but clutchs, trannys, carrier bearing and i will tell you what is next real soon i am afraid.

genros

Justin,

Did you oring your head
whos twin setup are you running, what kind of cost?
and finally who and what do you have done to your trans

Timinva

I have towed up to 10k lbs with my truck in its current form. Take it on trips all the time and put at least 800-1000 miles of local driving. I have had twins on it almost 2 years now. You have to keep up on pm,s and pay attention to the little things like hoses, clamps, ect. But I have had no real problems yet. I am driving to Charlotte tonight and have complete faith in the truck. Tim

justinp20012500

Haisley's 12mm studs and fire rings.

My own twin setup. See the reader rigs... 20 hours to build and about $2,000 not including the top hybrid turbo.

The trans...

My own custom billet multi disk TC. The trans has a full race shift kit, 48RE drum with a billet apply piston (6 total frictions) 300m input, high-energy band, billet dual ring servo, 4.4 lever. (you can get the planetaries from a 48RE in there too, but I did not think I would need them)

I am thinking of tuning the VB a little because the shifts are way too hard. It will shake your filling out.

With just the stock 47re stuff and a full race shift kit and a muli disk TC the trans had 20k before I broke the input shaft. Tore it apart and all the clutches looked new except for a little wear on the kick down band. (I was very impressed)

As you can see I have done most of my own work. Why?? Just for fun. To gain knowledge.

I am currently working on a trans brake geared towards the drag racers out there. The trans will HAVE to be full billet, because I will snap shafts like twigs. Still working things out though.


Justin

joefarmer

The '99 in my signature is driven daily with around 300 miles a week. I average 15.5 mpg in the winter and ~17mpg in the summer. If I keep the speed below 70, I got 20.010mpg once. The mileage is lower due to the 4.10 rear end. I've also towed a light TT and a small 20' flatbed a few times with no ill effects and no overheating.

brandon.

signature600

You're just special, Brandon

Chris

4doogie

I have plans for about 400-450 hp on a single turbo, that will put on about 100 miles every day. I will tow 3-4 times a year. and the bed will be loaded down with stuff about every week( hay, stall bedding.... lumber....). I also want to take it to the track and dyno a few times a year. I might look at twins if my EGT's get too hot. All i know about having twins is have a NICE tranny!!

genros

justin

First, you have your own converter design? that you fabbed yourself. Little more than a back yard mechanic (pat on the back)

the 48re drum, better than the billet drum the popular trans shops are puttin out ? cheaper ?

seems i can get the billet input and output for 600 each the drum would be another 600.

recomended smoething about the third gear drum? (explain)

valavebody i would assume to get from dtt or goerend

Tc, im unsure of who has the one best suitd for driving a 500 hp driver daily. any help would be great
sorry in advance if i am a pia
just trying to build without faults

genros

4doogie
why spend the money on a single now if you can buy the twins for little more
seems like a waste to upgrade later
just do it correct now.

anyone input on this would be appreciated

justinp20012500

Someone that knows there way around a VB can do a shift kit for you. BUT buying one from the above is obviously the easiest way to go.

No, the stock 48RE drum is not stronger then the billet jobbie. The bad part about the billet drum is the cost. For under $200 bucks you can have a drum that will hold 6 frictions. (Don't know what the billet job costs, but last time I heard was around 695 from sonnax)

If the kick down band burns the billet drum you have to buy a new one. ($695) IF the band burns the 48RE drum you have to buy a new one ($80)

If the dual ring apply servo is used along with a 4.4 lever you should not be able to slip the band. (Notice I did not say never, anything can happen)

I have another tc that will be priced well under a grand. It has a billet front cover and 3 friction surfaces. Two are in buddy’s trucks and they just love them. (Both are running comps with DD3's)

My full billet tc is really harsh. Lock up hits like a train and the stall is really low. Almost too low to tow with. The stall makes it blow allot of smoke taking off in traffic.

The other stator design is much better suited for someone that drives the truck everyday. Its really just personal preference.

Smoke might not be smoke to someone else...

genros

you dont have the lock up on a switch?

you are producing parts for sale also?
you are a shop?

pmtg

first, $$$ talks. easier said than writing the check for a few $1000. everyone has their own financial priorities.

second, you could purchase a modified hx-40 and if that still isnt enough then move on to the twins setup using the hx-40 as the top charger. no waste.

use the search function and pay attention to others' signatures as they usually have some very valuable information in them.

450hp+ is fairly common (atleast on this site it is, not so much on the road).

how much are you willing to spend? at once? from your other post, i dont believe so. i say take it one step at a time. tranny, turbo, injectors, maybe another turbo, o-rings, head studs, intercooler boots, lift pump(s), new tires eventually, port and polish, new VP-44s. in no significant order.

set your priorities: you plow which puts a lot of abuse on the tranny whether the Cummins is modified or not. put your money towards that to make it rock solid. sometimes not enough emphasis is put on the tranny, why spend the money on injectors if the tranny cant live up to them? VP-44 is fragile without a good lift pump, get that dilemna taken care of.


good luck and have fun, Pat

justinp20012500

Nope not a shop, at least not yet...


The TC's I can sell for less then anyone out there. (Making multi's)

I just got ahold of a new S300G with the dual port w/g and almost any combination of comp wheel. Gotta love new toys. I sent one out to Okie for a guy that is using it along with a B2. He should be at 700 + by the end of next week.

Yes my truck has a lock up switch. Locked shifts are brutal to say the least. If you don't have a full billet trans, don't allow it to shift under had accl. locked!