rpausewang

How do you think the true-trac LS would work in the front axle. Or would a power-lok work better? I'm doing the Dynatrac hub kit and their axle conversion kit. Ordering this week. Don't have money for diff yet. A true-trac 35 spline donation would work for me... Any thoughts?

Vern Calhoun

I would say it should work great. You might want to look into a Posi-Lok kit for the thing while your at it. I know the factory vaccum on my old truck started to engage in 2wd and ground the gear on the axle shaft down to a nub twice before I finally did a posi-lok on it and had positive engagement plus 2wheel low.

rpausewang

I'm installing the one piece 35 spline axle so the cad is not a worry anymore. One piece axle from diff to outer shaft.

HOHN

Since you're doing 35spl axles, I'd do the TrueTrac for sure.

Sounds like a great setup!

JH

Philabuster

>>>Detroit Electrac Dana 60 35 spline<<< Same as a TrueTrac, but with a push of a button, it becomes a full spool.

If I was going to delete the CAD, This is what I would get for sure!

Hintz

I had the true-trac in my k5 while I had 1/2 ton axles, Id recommend it to anyone great great posi, but there was only one diff I liked better and that was the straight detroit locker, even on the street I loved that thing

rpausewang

Great advice. Now out of all mentioned above which would be best all around? I'm trying to get away from clutches. I think the detroit will take away a bit of mobility in steering. Guys don't get me wrong, I would put detroit lockers in front and rear if it would work the best. I tow alot. When I tow it's usually heavy 8000# to 14000#s. Also pulling these loads on the farm. If the lockers would work that's what I'll do. So you tell me. I have never had full lockers and I'm looking for advice. When I'm done with rebuilding the front axle I think it can take any diff I want. So?

HOHN

Reider Racing quoted me $830 for said Electrac. Not too bad considering what you get with it! It's only slightly more expensive than a less versatile ARB.

The Electrac up front is no doubt the bomb!

jh

Hintz

If your putting in manual hubs, a detroit all the way; cheaper, more realiable and no switches, compressors or any else to install. For the rear are you saying you want to get rid of clutches (as in cluth driven diffs???), but as im sure you know the true trac is gear driven. And if you want a selectable locker in the rear go w/ ARB then in this case Id run an ARB in front and run them off the same air compressor, save a little coin.

HOHN

You do NOT want a Detroit locker for towing heavy, ESPECIALLY towing heavy in a farm environment.

If you hit the loud pedal at the wrong time (while turning) with a heavy load on there, you'll grenade the unit.

Detroits are also very hard on the driveline because they have no transition-- they are either ratcheting or locked, and this is a lot of impact to u-joint, axles, etc etc.

So I'd stay away from the Detroit in the rear. Up front, the Detroit would work a lot better, but ONLY if you do a freespin conversion, obviously.

For towing heavy, you want something in the back that has some give to it while still biasing torque. Basically, that means you're down to two diffs: a TrueTrac, or a Powr-Lok. You said you wanted to avoid clutches, so then you're down to just the TrueTrac.

I wouldn't worry about the clutch wear that much. If I had a D70, I'd go with a Powr-Lok for sure. For a D80, a TrueTrac is basically your only option.

Honestly, only the most hardcore offroaders can typically find themselves in situations where a locker's traction improvement over a LSD is the difference between getting stuck or not.

IMO, a locker isn't an option for you because you are towing heavy weights over uneven ground. You lock up that axle towing a heavy trailer over uneven ground while turning and BAM you just took at an axle.

A locker might give you 30%-50% more traction than an LSD, but it's also 100% more dangerous to axle/driveline life.

JMO