horsinaround

I have a four horse trailer with 7000 lb. Dexter axles. I want to put aluminum wheels on it. Does anyone know if the Chevy 2500 wheels will fit? Are the wheels rated for the weight? The Dodge ones would work too, but I think the GM/Chevy ones would look better on a trailer.

I can buy Alcoa aluminum wheels, but they are pretty expensive, without tires. The alcoa ones are rated for 3750 lbs. at 110 PSI.

I can buy OEM take off wheels from a chevy or a dodge 3/4 or one ton SRW truck for about half the price, but am concerned that they fit and that they are rated for the weight. I think they are rated right, as the tires are load range E on both the trailer and the truck, but am looking for some reassurance, or otherwise from someone who really knows.

Thanks.

torquefan

I would think a 7000 lb axle should have a higher rated tire on it than an 'E', as a LT235/85R16E is rated at 3042 lbs. I don't think an aluminum wheel for a pickup truck would be rated any higher than that.

Raspy

I put a set of six Hummer H2 wheels on my triple axle enclosed trailer with 18,000 GVW. I'm running six 265/70 E tires that are the stock ones for a Dodge. Perfect fit, cheap, look great and they are corrosion resistant.

The offset was right and they went right on, but I did have to get another set of nuts because the OD on the standard set of nuts was too small for the H2 wheels. I think they are Chevy nuts. Anyway, the tires fit the wheels well and the wheels fit the trailer like they were made for it.

Dodgezilla

Everything I have read, except for Raspy's last post, tells me that the offset on the Dodge rims is too much and they would not work without some sort of spacer or even longer axles. When I look at my trailer I can tell 100% that the wheels would hit the leafspring. I have considered doing the same as you but I would have to buy new axles too because mine are just 5200lb 6-lug units.

RAMRODD

My brother-in-law put chevy wheels on his 4 horse trailer. Not sure if the axles are 7000 Dexter's but they are 8 lug.
I can take a picture tomorrow if you like. (It's at my place along with the horses for the winter)

billie

You really should read up on 'trailer' tires. They are pricy for a reason since they have different construction than truck tires. Personnally, I won't use anything but a trailer tire on a trailer but to each their own.

Raspy

billie,

The Carlisle 15 inch radial trailer tires (just for an example) that I have on a couple of trailers, are not worthy of being on my wheelbarrow. On the other hand, the E rated BFG truck tires that came on my Dodge seem to be completely up to the task of carrying my triple axle trailer. Some of the trailer tire differences, as I understand it, are stiff side walls for sway resistance, increased UV inhibitors and better air retention. None of those are problems in my case, and I don't like rib tread because braking is so important. So I don't know why load E tires are a problem on trailers when used within their designed weight limit.

Please enlighten me.

ghenges

The bolt circle is wrong for the Dodge & Chevy wheels.
I used 16" steel wheels from a 1992 Ford 3/4 ton on tandem Dexter 7000# axles. An aluminum wheel of the same rated capacity should work fine also.
The Ford wheels, in comparison to Dexter trailer wheels I use on another trailer, are comparable in metal thickness. I am certain they will safely carry the same weight. Matter of fact I have hauled some very heavy loads on the wheels without apprehension.
Lots of pickups out there being abused and overloaded to the max, never heard of wheels failing.

In regards to trailer tires vs light truck tires, this link is informative.

Personally I have always used truck tires on trailers. Ask my tire man for the best tire for a trailer, he put on Michelin XPS because a local right of way clearing company said they are the only tire that will stand up in rough off road conditions. The sidewalls are particularly heavy.
Actually had to pay some federal excise tax on the Michelins because they are quite a bit heavier than the average light truck tire.


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billie

Its been a while since I did my research so I won't quote anything but trailer tires are designed for extended parking also. There is no doubt that the tire used must be rated but in your first post you suggested using a 3000# rated tire on a 7000# axle. If 6000# is all you need and the trailer is used regularily, it probably isn't an issue and your choice of course. I was simply suggesting you do some research for your question. The internet has lots of pertinent information rather than a layman's opinion.

Also, in ghenges post (link), it mentions that LT tires may or can be trailer rated, simply my point to use a trailer rated tire (I haven't had to replace any in that high of weight rating and never checked LT tires before).

Raspy

billie,

I'll do a little more research.

But to address a couple of your points, The load rating on the 265s is 3195 lbs each. The trailer is a triple axle with an 18,000 GVW. Six times 3,195 is 19,170 lbs.

As far as extended parking goes the 9.50/16.5s that were on it, and trailer rated, did hold air well but "flat spotted" severely. Not so much with the 265s I mentioned.

This topic has been kicked around a lot on here and it seems E rated tires are actually preferred by many. I happened to have a set in stock and they worked out very well for me. I had to get a set of wheels so I opted for H2s. I still don't know the actual weight rating on the H2s but I have put many miles on several sets with no problems, and so have a lot of others on here.

billie

It is interesting that the LT's are trailer rated, I never knew that. As you pointed out, braking traction is important especially for a horse trailer. I have radials on mine and hope to put air ride in it next summer. Nothings too good for my ponies.

nkennedy

My fifth wheel trailer came from the factory with E rated LT tires. I still run them. A lot of the ST tires are manufactured really cheaply. You have to really watch what you buy.

ghenges

Here is a link to specs on one specific H2 Hummer model.
Rear wheel capacity appears to be 3042# for this model.
Front wheel capacity of 2758#.

It's a good bet the H2 wheel is the 3195# rating that is often stated.

One thing perhaps to consider is the sideways force a loaded tandem or triple axle imparts to the wheel during tight turning by sliding the tire sideways on the pavement.
Will the center of an aluminum wheel accept the same sideways force as a steel wheel?
Have seen many vehicles with aluminum wheels coming in to the wrecking yard with the wheel centers busted completely out during crashes, while steel wheels get severely bent.


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ghenges

The only readily available source of off the shelf trailer specific tires is the retail trailer dealers and the farm & ranch outlet stores where cheap is the first consideration.
Both stock the flimsy Bong Kong made ST trailer tires, look like MayPops for sure. Somebody here equated them with wheelbarrow tires.
I do hold my breath and run them on a little 3000# utility trailer, BUT I make certain always to carry a spare.

Checked a professional trailer supply company I've dealt with and it appears for the heavier tires they offer the LT truck tire. Especially in load range "G".



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Raspy

ghenges,

That chart you posted the link to states the front and rear wheel capacities are different. But in reality, the front and rear wheels are the same on Hummers. When they say "front wheel capacity" in the chart, I'm not clear what they mean. A true factory weight rating would be nice.

It also shows the front tire and rear tires as having different capacities when the front and the rears are actually the same tire, and the tires have a molded in capacity from BFG that is higher.

Many have guessed what the actual ratings are for H2 factory wheels. But I have never seen anything definitive.

I agree that a steel wheel will deform farther than an aluminum one will before breaking. But not accepting aluminum wheels because some have broken during severe crashes is a bit of a stretch. Are you saying that parts should not fail during a crash? How severe of a crash? Should we try to rate wheels for how severe of a crash they can withstand instead of how much weight they can safely carry on the highway? I'll go with the weight rating since the crash rating may be hard to define and test. Plus there are so many other problems after a crash.

Not trying to get on your case here, just being practical. I'm sure neither of us would run anything we knew to be weak or underrated. And steel wheels are better in some rocky four wheeling applications because you can hammer them back out if dinged. I favor the aluminum ones, if they are the same strength, because they look so much better and are more corrosion resistant.

As far as side loading is concerned, yes, I wonder how that plays into the overall weight rating. A heavy triple axle doing a U turn on pavement or turning sharply out of a driveway can really load the center area just outside the bolt circle. I'm just not aware that breaking wheels is a common problem or connected with a certain model.