97catintenn

Every morning for the first start of the day, I'll start the truck, it'll fire up for a second and die. Then I'll start it again and it will run. I really miss the old days when I only had to bump start it in the mornings.

Another thing I haven't figured out, is that last month, my truck was parked on an inline for 48hrs and wouldn't start till I bled the injectors.

Some days I see a drop of fuel from the injector pump every other second or two, and others it's dry.

Do I have multiple problems? Where do I start?

wannadiesel

Figure out where the pump is leaking and fix that. Fixing the leak will probably fix your starting trouble. You are getting air in the fuel system.

jimbo486

where on the pump are you seeing a drip? check your fuel heater. maybe it doesn't get a 12v signal right away. how about the fuel filter? how recently have to changed it? could be getting air in the system. especially if it was parked on an incline like you said.

comptz

on the starting and dieing i would say bad connection on the shut off solenoid. Being when you start the truck it would shake the connection loose and lose voltage and kill the truck then when you start it is good again until it gets shook again. Being parked on an incline for 48 hrs and not starting until you bleed the injectors sounds like you have a leakdown somewhere.

pulltilbroke

Yep check for air leaks

jesussaves

is it really cold? Did your grid heater go out??

jimbo486

that wouldn't be the reason. it'd just be harder to start if the grid heater didn't come on and it was cold enough. the grid heater continues to cycle on and off while the engines running. the engine won't quit running when the heater cycles off. engines love cold, dense air.

97catintenn

I don't think it leaks when the motor is not running, and yesterday and today I don't see any leaks. But when it does leak, it comes from the bottom of the pump about midways. The local mechanic says I need a new pump, that there isn't a rebuild kit for it.


I did recently change the fuel filter, about two months ago.

Today, it fired up and died, then I fired it up again and it ran. I had it plugged in for a few hours, so the grid heater wasn't needed.

Any ideas on what is leaking on the pump?

jesussaves

it sounded to me in the first post that he was having a hard time starting it, i thought this was a starting issue??

jimbo486

that mechanic lied to you in a sense. bosch makes a rebuild kit. DGK-121 has all the o-rings and seals you'll need for $16. it's cheap unless internal parts are needed. doubtful though. sounds like the leak could be coming from the plate on the block side of the pump at the bottom that covers the other side of the KSB mechanism. you might be able to see it with a mirror. start her up, take a peek and hope it leaks then. i will say that it will have to come out of the truck to replace that seal. can't pinpoint for sure why it dies immediately after the first start up, but runs with no problems after the 2nd start up. i'm stumped at this point. the pump could be sucking in air from where it's leaking also??

97catintenn

Ok, I went out and hoped for a leak. I started it up, it ran and after about 60secs I saw the first drop. But after I killed the engine, it started dripping a drop per second. I fired it back up, and the leak appeared to have stopped.

Kill the engine and it drips every second. Fire it up, and the drips slow down to one every 60 seconds.

Where the leak seems to be coming from is the in between the section of the pump with the stamped information on it, and the next section to the right of it in the picture. I believe I have traced the leak down to be coming from the engine side of the pump, but it's hard to tell.

The KSB is really hot, too.

wannadiesel

Looks like it's leaking between the pump head and the body. Several people have replaced that seal without pulling the pump, but it is a ticklish task.

Sounds like your KSB works.

dillenger1

its not that hard.Just move the fuel lines and anything in the way of the highpressure screws.unbolt the high pressure side,but leave it in.Tap on it witha rubber mallet till it frees itself.tap it out till you see the sealing o-ring.remove with dental pick then install with dental pick.

wannadiesel

The ticklish part is not pulling the head off too far...

If it's not really hard to get at the seal, you went too far.

97catintenn

So, the tough part is to not separate the two sections too far, just pull it apart enough to change an oring.

What are the dimensions of the oring, or do I need to buy the rebuild kit that jimbo mentioned?

what out of ordinary tools do I need?