Truck is running/drives, but VERY low power on take-off, ideas?
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Truck is running/drives, but VERY low power on take-off, ideas?
While the pump was sitting on the bench, I adjusted the governor lever arm. Put the truck back togother last night, fired it up today and drove it to work.
Before the issues with my pump, I could just side-step the clutch in 1st gear, and the truck would simply start rolling. Then when I started having problems, I had really low power on take-off, had to slip the clutch/rev even in 1st gear, that's not right. If I side-step it now, it'll just stall. Kaput.
I had the gov arm adjusted correctly on the bench, but I noticed driving to work that when I jumped on it, I merely got a puff of smoke, not the plumge that I usually did.
I did some searching but didn't find a whole lot of info. One thing I saw it could be is the fuel shut-off solenoid, if it's weak, then it doesn't lift up high enough allowing the IP to fuel fully, is that accurate? With the truck running, can I pull the solenoid arm up higher to see if that's the problem? If I pull it up, will it stay up?
What else should I be looking at? I don't see how the gov arm would go out of adjustment.
Thanks!
Before the issues with my pump, I could just side-step the clutch in 1st gear, and the truck would simply start rolling. Then when I started having problems, I had really low power on take-off, had to slip the clutch/rev even in 1st gear, that's not right. If I side-step it now, it'll just stall. Kaput.
I had the gov arm adjusted correctly on the bench, but I noticed driving to work that when I jumped on it, I merely got a puff of smoke, not the plumge that I usually did.
I did some searching but didn't find a whole lot of info. One thing I saw it could be is the fuel shut-off solenoid, if it's weak, then it doesn't lift up high enough allowing the IP to fuel fully, is that accurate? With the truck running, can I pull the solenoid arm up higher to see if that's the problem? If I pull it up, will it stay up?
What else should I be looking at? I don't see how the gov arm would go out of adjustment.
Thanks!
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UPDATE:
Went out, turned truck to run, pushed up on solenoid to verify that it was working. Pulled up, and solenoid stuck up. Started truck, still not getting the smoke like I got before, and RPM's aren't limiting at 3K RPM like it's supposed to, just keeps going.
Also have a leak at the DV holder. Where exactly is that rubber o-ring supposed to go, at the bottom of the bore, right on top of the DV? Or somehwere else?
Went out, turned truck to run, pushed up on solenoid to verify that it was working. Pulled up, and solenoid stuck up. Started truck, still not getting the smoke like I got before, and RPM's aren't limiting at 3K RPM like it's supposed to, just keeps going.
Also have a leak at the DV holder. Where exactly is that rubber o-ring supposed to go, at the bottom of the bore, right on top of the DV? Or somehwere else?
#3
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UPDATE:
Went out, turned truck to run, pushed up on solenoid to verify that it was working. Pulled up, and solenoid stuck up. Started truck, still not getting the smoke like I got before, and RPM's aren't limiting at 3K RPM like it's supposed to, just keeps going.
Also have a leak at the DV holder. Where exactly is that rubber o-ring supposed to go, at the bottom of the bore, right on top of the DV? Or somehwere else?
Went out, turned truck to run, pushed up on solenoid to verify that it was working. Pulled up, and solenoid stuck up. Started truck, still not getting the smoke like I got before, and RPM's aren't limiting at 3K RPM like it's supposed to, just keeps going.
Also have a leak at the DV holder. Where exactly is that rubber o-ring supposed to go, at the bottom of the bore, right on top of the DV? Or somehwere else?
the best way i like em, is that the GSK nut is almost even with the stud. just a tad tighter.
cuz looser springs and a higher idle screw will give it a lot more low end power.
my truck i step side the clutch in 2nd no rev, and it wont kill! the rpm goes down to the 200 rpm, but wont kill!
so loosen ur springs, higher the idle and your good to go!
as for smoke, loosen the afc spring, or slide it forward.
thats what i found out on a few trucks, yours might be dif! though
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See that's what's weird, I haven't touched the governor springs. Before the problem I had of the bolt/nut backing out, the governor worked fine.
As for the smoke, Im alread plate full forward, housing full forward, and starwheel all the way also. Before the 'problem', I got nice smokey too. Now, not so much. I'm going to verify the gov lev arm is hitting the plate, but still, should not cause loss of low-end like this.
As for the smoke, Im alread plate full forward, housing full forward, and starwheel all the way also. Before the 'problem', I got nice smokey too. Now, not so much. I'm going to verify the gov lev arm is hitting the plate, but still, should not cause loss of low-end like this.
#5
#6
And one more thing when you had the pump off did you raise the fuel arm (the piece the shutoff selinoid attaches to) up all the way when you adjusted the govenor lever.
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OK yeah I was in neutral. I'll try it again while actually driving. I'm pretty sure I had lifted that arm all the way. I'm going to re-do it this evening just in case I did something wrong; but pretty sure I had it up because I know when I did it on the truck the how-to said to make sure to lift the plunger up all the way.
Another symptom: When driving, if I let off the fuel pedal and push in the clutch, RPM's dip down to ~350-400, then come back up to ~700-800. One time I stopped it completely stalled out. Also pulling into my driveway, had to give it a lot of pedal even in first gear just to keep it from stalling.
Another symptom: When driving, if I let off the fuel pedal and push in the clutch, RPM's dip down to ~350-400, then come back up to ~700-800. One time I stopped it completely stalled out. Also pulling into my driveway, had to give it a lot of pedal even in first gear just to keep it from stalling.
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#8
Lets say your in first and your climbing a hill your letting the truck pull itself how far down does the rpm's get or does just stall out? When engine is good and warm whats your idle at? It really sounds like low idle if it only gets to 800 I know its low move it up to at least 850 I like mine idling right at or just below 900 rpm.
#9
As for the no smoking do you have any way of checking the fuel pressure? The overflow valve is a good place to start. Where did you set the timming at when you put the pump back on? A bad or torn AFC diaphram will cause a loss of low end power, you would definitly know something was wrong. Sorry for all the questions.
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Please don't apologize about the questions, I'll get whatever info you guys need to help get this pig going right. Have a 2000 mile drive in a week, I need to make sure it's running right.
I set the timing at 16*. You can see a 6MB video here last night when I started it up, it's not running "off" or anything, it's pretty smooth:
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...after_pump.wmv
I haven't found any hills out here in W. Texas yet but when I find one I will let you know. If I'm on flat ground, and slowly let out the clutch, it will die, unless I give it fuel. I SHOULD be able to just side-step the clutch in first and have it start crawling.
I'm not sure what my idle is at, the dashes are stupid, but I would venture between 800-900, I would have to look closer at it.
I currently have no way to check fuel pressure. I do have a brand new filter in there. When I get home I'm going to check/clean the pre-screen on the heater.
Timing was set to 16*. Where is the AFC Diaphragm?
I set the timing at 16*. You can see a 6MB video here last night when I started it up, it's not running "off" or anything, it's pretty smooth:
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...after_pump.wmv
I haven't found any hills out here in W. Texas yet but when I find one I will let you know. If I'm on flat ground, and slowly let out the clutch, it will die, unless I give it fuel. I SHOULD be able to just side-step the clutch in first and have it start crawling.
I'm not sure what my idle is at, the dashes are stupid, but I would venture between 800-900, I would have to look closer at it.
I currently have no way to check fuel pressure. I do have a brand new filter in there. When I get home I'm going to check/clean the pre-screen on the heater.
Timing was set to 16*. Where is the AFC Diaphragm?
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OK I was researching on how to install a FP gauge and parts needed, came across this thread:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=88133
I noticed Bill said:
Does this mean that the lift pump is an all-or-nothing deal? It either works or it doesn't? I had a dry injection pump, dry lines, and a bone dry filter, and was able to prime it up to the injector pump using the manual prime. Then cranking the engine finished getting fuel through the rest of the system. Does that mean my lift pump is for sure good? Or, could it still be "weak"?
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=88133
I noticed Bill said:
Also since you took the banjo out to install the gauge you you would have broke suction from the injection pump, if the lift pump was bad you never would be able to get it started.
Air in the gauge line makes no difference at all.
Air in the gauge line makes no difference at all.
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I'm a pro at getting the AFC housing off if I need to look at something in there, done it enough times now.
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Building a gauge setup tonight, will report #'s; then clean out the pre-heater screen, and check #'s again. Then...I don't know? Guess we'll see what the #'s are.
Well I completely botched the DV hold-down o-ring putting it back in. Good thing I had the diesel injection place order me some today, should be in tomorrow. I was supposed to put it on the tip of the DV hold-down, not set it in the bottom of the bore!
Well I completely botched the DV hold-down o-ring putting it back in. Good thing I had the diesel injection place order me some today, should be in tomorrow. I was supposed to put it on the tip of the DV hold-down, not set it in the bottom of the bore!
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