truck losing power and wheel question
#1
truck losing power and wheel question
ok so i was on my way to pick up a set of wheels this morning...truck running fine down the road at 70mph ..stopped and got fuel along the road(assumed winter blend as its been cold here in mo) continued on and about 20 mi down the road it started losing power...dropped to 65 and lower on the hills...knew i had a problem cause pedal all the way down and no acceleration..so im thinking fuel filter perhaps...limped along to the destination which was another 60 mi..temp there at 29 deg...picked up wheels added some power service in the white bottle(what i had with me at the time) drove back with full power and no issues..what temps does fuel start gellin up?..is there something else i should look at?...second quest the wheels i bought were aluminum welds with 4 in backspace..i have second gen steels now and they measure 5 in backspace and dont like the way they look...these wheels have holes to fit 9/16 studs..i guess mine are 1/2 in... now the lug nuts to install these are tapered style..so the extra slop between the hole in the wheel and my studs would be safe?..or should i try to get shoulder bolts...thanks for all the replies..now that is a little warmer outside im going to go work on the beast a little
#2
wow did i really stump everyone on this or just no opinions...or would it be safe to say that we have all gone to if you cant say something nice dont say anything at all?..lol
#3
Adminstrator-ess
The paraffin in the fuel can start crystallizing up in the low 40's if the fuel is crappy enough. The wax crystals plug the filter.
Check the fuel heater, make sure it is plugged in and has power when the key is on. Also check continuity across the heater with the engine cold. If resistance is very high (over 30 ohms or so) you have a problem.
Use tapered nuts, but make sure they are wide enough that the taper hits the wheel before the nut bottoms on the hub. Make sense?
Check the fuel heater, make sure it is plugged in and has power when the key is on. Also check continuity across the heater with the engine cold. If resistance is very high (over 30 ohms or so) you have a problem.
Use tapered nuts, but make sure they are wide enough that the taper hits the wheel before the nut bottoms on the hub. Make sense?
#4
yes i understand the bottoming out..these wheels are thick though so wont have that problem..wish i could use a shoulder bolt but thats the way it goes..i dont haul that heavy anymore..just car to the race track and a few tractors to the pulls..thanks again
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