Trouble getting injector pump gear off -- what'd I miss?
11-19-2006, 08:25 PM
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Trouble getting injector pump gear off -- what'd I miss?
I followed the Haynes manual step-by-step to take this thing apart. I have everything disconnected, the 30mm nut & washer removed behind the oil fill hole. I have the (4) 15mm nuts removed, as well as the long 10mm bolts that vertically hold the pump down (one holding one of the fuel lines between the intake manifold & the IP, the other on the opposite side).
I bought a steering wheel puller, but instead of the gear pulling off or the pump pushing through, more all I'm doing really is bending the freaking puller bolts that are screwed into the gear. There's not enough room really to get 2 hands down to support the ratchet while pushing down. I can only fit a 3/8" ratchet in there to turn it.
Is there something I'm missing, or a better way to do this?
I bought a steering wheel puller, but instead of the gear pulling off or the pump pushing through, more all I'm doing really is bending the freaking puller bolts that are screwed into the gear. There's not enough room really to get 2 hands down to support the ratchet while pushing down. I can only fit a 3/8" ratchet in there to turn it.
Is there something I'm missing, or a better way to do this?
11-19-2006, 09:10 PM
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Dave:
I'd first put back on at least two of the 15 mm nuts holding the pump onto the timing case. Do this so that when it does let loose, it doesn't accidently push the pump off the back and fall down. They are heavy and ackward to move around.
The timing gear is a press on taper fit. There is no key to worry about. The gear nut is torqued to around 140+ ft/lbs (don't hold me to the exact number) but is high enough it can be tight. You will hear/feel a loud pop when it lets loose. Don't pry on the back of the timing case around the front of the pump. There is an O-ring there that can be damaged. It is a snug fit and you will have to work to get the pump to slide back out of the timing case housing.
I'm not sure why it won't come off with the force that it sounds like you are using. I've used the flat gear puller from snapon that gives more room up front to work.
When you do get it loose, be careful lifting it out and keep the battery covered. It makes a nice place to set it on but can make for even nicer sparks.
I'd first put back on at least two of the 15 mm nuts holding the pump onto the timing case. Do this so that when it does let loose, it doesn't accidently push the pump off the back and fall down. They are heavy and ackward to move around.
The timing gear is a press on taper fit. There is no key to worry about. The gear nut is torqued to around 140+ ft/lbs (don't hold me to the exact number) but is high enough it can be tight. You will hear/feel a loud pop when it lets loose. Don't pry on the back of the timing case around the front of the pump. There is an O-ring there that can be damaged. It is a snug fit and you will have to work to get the pump to slide back out of the timing case housing.
I'm not sure why it won't come off with the force that it sounds like you are using. I've used the flat gear puller from snapon that gives more room up front to work.
When you do get it loose, be careful lifting it out and keep the battery covered. It makes a nice place to set it on but can make for even nicer sparks.
11-20-2006, 09:42 AM
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Forgive me if I am being Ignorant ,but i assume you have removed the fan? with the fan off there is lots of room in there for a couple of hands.
Also , maybe try pushing (pulling is a little safer) the ratchet in a different direction, have the handle of the ratchet perpendicular to the puller bolts.
I used a combination wrench on my puller when i did my timing, and I was to the point where i could not turn it anymore ( i clamped a pair of vice grips on the H part of my puller to hold it) and i was walking across the shop to get a buddy wrench for some more torque , and i heard a very distinctive POP, walked back over and the gear was loose.
Also , maybe try pushing (pulling is a little safer) the ratchet in a different direction, have the handle of the ratchet perpendicular to the puller bolts.
I used a combination wrench on my puller when i did my timing, and I was to the point where i could not turn it anymore ( i clamped a pair of vice grips on the H part of my puller to hold it) and i was walking across the shop to get a buddy wrench for some more torque , and i heard a very distinctive POP, walked back over and the gear was loose.
11-20-2006, 09:55 AM
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You're right, I didn't take the fan off, I was hoping I'd be able to get it off with the fan still on. If I gotta take it off I gotta take it off, I guess that's some more tools I have to buy. 
Someone make me feel better about all the money worth of tools I'm buying -- how much would I expect to pay someone to R&R the pump for me? I better be saving a lot!
Good tip on the battery, and I will put a couple nuts back on there too.
First I'm going to try and get some stronger bolts that maybe won't bend, and give the gear some heat and see if that'll help me out.
Another question -- When the pump is removed, what keeps the gear in place from falling down? Just the puller?
Someone make me feel better about all the money worth of tools I'm buying -- how much would I expect to pay someone to R&R the pump for me? I better be saving a lot!
Good tip on the battery, and I will put a couple nuts back on there too.
First I'm going to try and get some stronger bolts that maybe won't bend, and give the gear some heat and see if that'll help me out.
Another question -- When the pump is removed, what keeps the gear in place from falling down? Just the puller?
11-20-2006, 10:22 AM
#7
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the pump gear wont fall down, even if you have the puller removed, i think it sits on other gears. anyway it wont fall down.
and i never ever removed the fan to do timing or to remove a ppump.
maybe you need a better puller.
i havent invested money in a puller, just bought some strong bolts with a 10 mm head, drilled some holes into a 1/2" thick piece of iron, and pull the gear of be turning in the bolts.
and i never ever removed the fan to do timing or to remove a ppump.
maybe you need a better puller.
i havent invested money in a puller, just bought some strong bolts with a 10 mm head, drilled some holes into a 1/2" thick piece of iron, and pull the gear of be turning in the bolts.
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11-20-2006, 10:49 AM
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I was hoping not to have to remove the fan. I'm hoping with better bolts, they won't bend. M8 aren't very thick bolts to begin with. I thought they were Grade 8, they were gold, but they're the ones that came with the puller so they're probably some cheapies. So you pulled the gear by turning the two threaded bolts evenly, instead of pulling the gear off by using the larger center bolt? With my luck I'll break a bolt off in the gear. 
11-20-2006, 11:10 AM
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Hrmmm. I'm not looking forward to buying the Snap-On one for $95. 
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
If my radiator wasn't in the way I could use my larger crow-foot gear puller. I tried the dealer for a tool but no answer there. I searched the forum but seems people either made their own or used a steering wheel puller.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
If my radiator wasn't in the way I could use my larger crow-foot gear puller. I tried the dealer for a tool but no answer there. I searched the forum but seems people either made their own or used a steering wheel puller.
11-20-2006, 11:34 AM
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Dave:
Wrong type of puller from Snap-on. That's a nice one but about 3X the price of the one you need.
Check this listing to see the one that is in the timing kit.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
By the time you're done you'll have enough tools to redo the timing and it will be worth the investment. Even at $70/hr shop time for a couple hours work you will still be ahead.
You also won't have to remove the fan to get this one in too.
Paul
Wrong type of puller from Snap-on. That's a nice one but about 3X the price of the one you need.
Check this listing to see the one that is in the timing kit.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
By the time you're done you'll have enough tools to redo the timing and it will be worth the investment. Even at $70/hr shop time for a couple hours work you will still be ahead.
You also won't have to remove the fan to get this one in too.
Paul
11-20-2006, 12:03 PM
#14
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Hrmmm. I'm not looking forward to buying the Snap-On one for $95.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
If my radiator wasn't in the way I could use my larger crow-foot gear puller. I tried the dealer for a tool but no answer there. I searched the forum but seems people either made their own or used a steering wheel puller.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
If my radiator wasn't in the way I could use my larger crow-foot gear puller. I tried the dealer for a tool but no answer there. I searched the forum but seems people either made their own or used a steering wheel puller.
11-20-2006, 03:07 PM
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Well I went down to the diesel injection repair place today. He actually had a P-7100 pump apart on the bench that he showed me and let me point out exactly what was wrong with it. Showed me where that nut may have fallen. Said once I get it off and can't find the nut, to just bring it in and he can pop off the back of the case, locate the nut, new gasket, put it back togother and call it a day. I was hoping I would be able to just take the back off, but there's a bunch of crap inside there so it's not that easy. After seeing the thing in pieces, now I know why they charge so much for a rebuild!
He had a gear removal tool for an older pump, if he had the newer one he said he'd have let me borrow it. I'm going to the scrap metal yard today to find a piece of metal to make my own tool. Picked up two new bolts too.
I think I'll have most everything I need to set the timing except the knowledge here soon.
He had a gear removal tool for an older pump, if he had the newer one he said he'd have let me borrow it. I'm going to the scrap metal yard today to find a piece of metal to make my own tool. Picked up two new bolts too.
I think I'll have most everything I need to set the timing except the knowledge here soon.