efbeason

I just ordered the TransGo TFOD Disesel HD-2 reprogramming kit. I have been doing some searching and I have read some really good posts on this kit. From what I have read, most people seem to like the kit. I know there are alot of fans of the prebuilt valve bodies. But, for the price difference I cannot justify doing one of those. Any of you who did the kit yourself, any pointers I should be aware of before I start this weekend? I am very confident on taking the valve body out. The e-clip is not a problem for me. I have had it out several times changing the shift springs trying to get the truck to shift where I want it. I just thought when I take it out this time I would stick this kit in. I already have a new manual valve and my shifts are somewhat firm. But, I want the line pressure up to where I can be confident it doesn't slip if I put a trailer behind it. I also like the idea of downshifting at any rpm so the truck will hold back a load. I do not have a lockup controller and I don't really intend to put on on it. So, any pointers? Thanks in advance!

oldblues

hi
did mine about 3 yr ago .
workin fine .

i did add a lock up switch so i can lock it sooner pullin hills from a stop with a load .
sooner it locks cooler it runs .

dont drill holes too big or shifts may be harsh , about 1/2 way of range they give .

i still have stock converter , a lower stall would be better .
stock trany pan also , and a 10 x20 aditional cooler in adition to factory one with a fan i can tun on in cab w/switch 308,000 miles

kit comes with a new manuel valve

efbeason

Hey, I appreciate the reply. So, are there different size holes recommended for different applications? I don't do alot of pulling. I do occasionally pull a horse trailer or hay trailer. I would say probably not over 15,000 at the very max very infrequently. But, I want something that is going to hold when I do. I have a Goerend triple disk in my truck. I have had it for about a year-and-a-half. It made a huge difference over stock. That's the big reason I have not really considered a lock-up switch. I am not really a performance guru and with that converter it pulls absolutely fine. The tranny usually does not get over about 175 degress on the hottest days. I also have billet front and rear servos, the billet 1-2 strap and anchor, and a deep sump B&M pan. I looked online and it looks like the kit comes with the drill bits. Is that true? Also, I watched the video from TransGo. Did you file a notch in your valve body? If so, what is that for? Thanks!

efbeason

Ok, I got the kit and I have been pouring over it and the Chrysler service manual and I have a couple of questions for the tranny gurus out there.

Question #1: I already have billet front and rear servos and a billet accumulator piston. I also have a billet 1-2 strap, anchor, and strut. The very first page of directions says to put new springs and a spacer in the rear servo and a new spring in the front servo. Do I need these springs and the spacer with the billet servos?

Question #2: I already also have a new manual valve that allows for cooler charge in park. And, the ability to downshift at any rpm is not a necessity for me. So, there are directions about what is called a "part valve body" in the TransGo kit. The Chrysler service manual calls that a limiter. Are these directions all in relation to giving the capability to downshift at any speed?

Question #3: What I really want out of this kit is to firm up the shift and make it shift at a later "part throttle" rpm. It looks like what I need to do is take the valve body out and drill out the separator plate at the designated 1-2 hole and the 2-3 hole, put the new line pressure springs in and do that adjustment, and put in the new throttle valve spring. Any of you who have done this kit and know more than me, is that what I need to focus on?

Question #4: What is the "Cherry Bomb"?

oldblues

hi
if the spring for the rear servo is stiffer than the stock one do NOT use it without adding a stronger spring retainer as the stifer spring will pop the factory retainer / snapring out and cause a problem u dont need .
i have the stock spring . do install the spacer in servo !

abort the dowshift at any speed part that is a accedent waiting to happen , a 5o mph dounshift to low no thank you !

n0 3 looks right to me !

band adj 2 turns front 3 turns rear !

efbeason

So, what about that "Cherry bomb"? Is that something to do with the "downshift at any speed" portion of the kit? Thanks alot!

high bid

It took me abour 4hrs first time. I cleared the 4x6' kitchen bar and installed it there w/help from a friend. I posted my results in the 24v drivetrain section.

kujo

it took me 4-6 hrs, i installed everything recomended in the kit including the cheerybomb.. if you have a tripple disk drill 1 small hole where it states it in the directions or it may lock really hard.. i have a single disk so i drilled 2 but on the small side of the size range incase i do get a tripple down the road it may not be too bad.. as for adjusting your shift points, your TV cable adjustment has a huge effect on this..

BC847

From 1st-hand experience, make a phone call to the techs at TransGo before you dig in just to bounce your plan off them. They are very helpful and can steer you toward the best settings/adjustments based on your intended usage. It's well worth the time.

IIRC, the Cherry-Bomb is what looks like a little ball that has a small cylindrical extension sticking out one side. It's part of the kit. The instructions should say where it goes in the valve-body.