BigDogJeepin

The installation went well, took me 8 hrs including replacing the front servo cover, 2nd gear band strut and anchor and adjusting both bands. I did NOT grind the notch into the valve body. Dave G says its not necessary and I didn't want to ruin the core value of the VB.

The shifts are much firmer and I like the results but the torque converter locks much slower than before the kit. Rather than locking firmly, it slides into lock.

Could this be the result of the notch Transgo has you grind into the Switch Valve or is there something else?

I should add that I did not drill the holes for the TCC. I plan to add a TC at a later date.

8 qts out, 11 back in (?)

jiggerman78

I have the same thing going on with my truck. It used to make me think my TC was slipping. I guess thats why its the smooth lockup. I found the only way to fix it is to give it more throttle or let off to make it shift. This is unless i give it more throttle from a standstill. The reason for it being smooth is because the hole isnt drilled since you intend to get a TC. If it was the shift would be firmer.

Crude dude

Installed my trans-go and mine shifts retarded hard, especially overdrive. My passengers look at me sometimes like something broke on the truck. If you are just putting around it is usually fine but as soon as you keep a firm acceleration it shifts really hard. I have noticed that my shuttle shift has gotten worse especially when its cold so I plan on going to the allison electronics someday. I also occasionally get a 1,2 and then feels like neutral for a split second and then 3rd. That definitely started after the transgo install. Anyone else have this?

BigDogJeepin

Did you drill the holes?

1985cucv

i drilled 1 hole couldnt be happier and prolly will still get an aftermarket tc someday and rock this valve body

Crude dude

I dont remember if I did or not, isn that lame? I can ask the guy that helped me...see if he remembers. Get back to ya

Swayse

I didn't drill the lock up holes either, but I did grind the notch in the valve body. I have the same lock up you are talking about, kinda slides in, I'm not thrilled about it. I had planned on adding a after market converter soon, thought that the stock converter was the weak link and would start slipping pretty soon. 20,000 miles later, and it's still fine, running smarty level 9.

BigDogJeepin

I am wondering if it has anything to do with the notch they have you grind in the switch valve. The switch valve controls lockup. I guess I can't rule out the possibility that I ground the wrong ring or the wrong side of it....
I see Sonnax makes a replacement that addresses soft lockup issues on stock VB's but their changes appear to affect different circuits than Transgo's modded valve.
http://www.sonnax.com/instructions/22771A-01-IN.pdf

I'm going to call Transgo this AM.

BigDogJeepin

Talked to Transgo. It seems that there are two issues at work. The Transgo separator plate has a smaller vent for the TCC circuit built into it (the notch in the corner). Its function is to soften lockup. This is intended to work with the hole(s) drilled for firmer lockup. This way, you have some adjustability by the number of holes you drill depending on how many clutches there are in your TC.

So by using their plate and not drilling holes, I've softened the lockup circuit. You have to do one or the other. If you are not drilling holes (for firmer lockup) and you are running stock TC, leave the original separator plate in (don't forget to drill the holes in the plate in page 6).

Would have been nice to know this before my 8 hr project!

ShutupAndHoldOn

BigdogJeepin,


Thanks so much for letting others of us take advantage of your mistakes!

If you were to do it again would you have skipped the Transgo seperator plate, or go with it and just drill the one hole?

BigDogJeepin

I don't think I would ever drill a hole in the valve body. I don't like making that kind of permanent change to such an expensive part. (Dave G says
plugging it is not a good option)

Really, we have only two choices if a TC is in our future, either leave the oem plate until you do have the TC, or just do it right the first time......

I'm leaning toward the latter. That way I can address two more weak points: the 1-2 apply lever and the flex plate (thinking Haisley insert).

Of course, if one never has any aspirations for more power, then by all means, drill holes. Sounds like it works well.

And remember, anyone considering leaving the oem plate in, you do still need to drill the two .106 holes in it just like Transgo's for "circuit calibration"

I'm also sitting here wondering; if you already have one hole drilled, can you have a builder make you a nice single disk TC that will work with the single hole?

As I typed this, Goerend called me back. They will have a TC, flex plate, and 1-2 lever for me on Wed. Guess my decision is made.

I wish I had the money for the billet input shaft but the wife is already giving me the evil eye.

matafdo

Im having a problem, i installed the transgo shift kit. I like the shift quickness it gives 1-2(its more crisps). The shift from 3-4 is hanging, and the TC when it locks out i mean its harsh(around 45-50). I purchased another valve body stock for a replacment but what can i do to this one to benefit from the shift kit. I went ahead a purchased some sonnax parts like the manul valve, and the other one that feed the tc while in park. I did a slip in band while i was in since that was the orginal problem and added the black billet servo and accumaltor for better sealing, with the billet strut and anchor.