Torque specs on banjo bolt at CP3?
02-26-2010, 11:24 AM
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Torque specs on banjo bolt at CP3?
Ne one have the torque specs on the banjo bolt at the CP3 on an 04 305/555? in/lbs or ft/lbs? any help would be great. I don't want to tighten it too much and have a leak or strip the bolt or break it off.
02-26-2010, 11:58 AM
#2
No torq. specs here but when i did mine i hand tightened and just "snugged" her up alittle with the wrench. I too was wondering the same when i did mine but no answers. I think they can handle alittle pressure but dont wrench on it like your torquein on a c-15 cat main bolts.
02-26-2010, 01:09 PM
#3
Administrator/Jarhead
I just copied all of it for future reference... It's step 12.
If you need more, let me know.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Cleanliness cannot be overemphasized
when handling or replacing diesel fuel system components.
This especially includes the fuel injectors,
high-pressure fuel lines and fuel injection pump.
Very tight tolerances are used with these parts. Dirt
contamination could cause rapid part wear and possible
plugging of fuel injector nozzle tip holes. This
in turn could lead to possible engine misfire.
Always wash/clean any fuel system component
thoroughly before disassembly and then air dry.
Cap or cover any open part after disassembly.
Before assembly, examine each part for dirt, grease
or other contaminants and clean if necessary. When
installing new parts, lubricate them with clean
engine oil or clean diesel fuel only.
(1) Inspect pump mounting surfaces at pump and
mounting flange for nicks, cuts or damage. Inspect
o-ring surfaces for nicks, cuts or damage.
(2) Clean injection pump mounting flange at gear
housing. Also clean front of injection pump.
(3) Install new rubber o-ring into machined groove
(Fig. 12) at pump mounting area.
(4) Apply clean engine oil to injection pump
o-ring only.
The machined tapers on both injection pump
shaft and injection pump gear must be absolutely
dry, clean and free of any dirt or oil film.
This will ensure proper gear-to-shaft tightening.
(5) Clean pump gear and pump shaft at machined
tapers with an evaporative type cleaner such as
brake cleaner.
(6) Position injection pump to mounting flange on
gear housing while aligning injection pump shaft
through back of injection pump gear.
(7) After pump is positioned flat to mounting
flange, install 3 pump mounting nuts and tighten
finger tight only. Do not attempt a final tightening
at this time. Do not attempt to tighten (pull)
pump to gear housing using mounting nuts.
Damage to pump or gear cover may occur. The
pump must be positioned flat to its mounting
flange before attempting to tighten 3 mounting
nuts.
(8) To prevent damage or cracking of components,
install and tighten nuts in the following sequence:
(a) Install injection pump shaft washer and nut
to pump shaft. Tighten nut finger tight only.
(b) Do preliminary (light) tightening of injection
pump shaft nut.
(c) Tighten 3 injection pump mounting nuts to
24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.).
(d) Do a final tightening of pump shaft nut to
105 N·m (77 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install drive gear access cover (plate) using a
3/8” drive ratchet. Plate is threaded to timing gear
cover. Tighten to 8 N·m (71 in. lbs.) torque.
(10) Install fuel line (injection pump-to-pressure
limiting valve). Tighten bolts to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(11) Install fuel line (injection pump-to-fuel rail).
(a) Tighten fitting at fuel pump to 37 N·m (27 ft.
lbs.) torque. Use a back-up wrench.
(b) Tighten fitting at fuel rail to 37 N·m (27 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(12) Install fuel line (injection pump-to-fuel filter
housing). Tighten to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Connect Fuel Control Actuator (FCA) electrical
connector to rear of injection pump.
(14) Install intake manifold air intake tube (above
injection pump). Tighten clamps.
(15) Install accessory drive belt.
(16) Install cooling fan shroud.
(17) Install cooling fan assembly.
(18) Connect both negative battery cables to both
batteries.
(19) Check system for fuel or engine oil leaks.
CAUTION: Cleanliness cannot be overemphasized
when handling or replacing diesel fuel system components.
This especially includes the fuel injectors,
high-pressure fuel lines and fuel injection pump.
Very tight tolerances are used with these parts. Dirt
contamination could cause rapid part wear and possible
plugging of fuel injector nozzle tip holes. This
in turn could lead to possible engine misfire.
Always wash/clean any fuel system component
thoroughly before disassembly and then air dry.
Cap or cover any open part after disassembly.
Before assembly, examine each part for dirt, grease
or other contaminants and clean if necessary. When
installing new parts, lubricate them with clean
engine oil or clean diesel fuel only.
(1) Inspect pump mounting surfaces at pump and
mounting flange for nicks, cuts or damage. Inspect
o-ring surfaces for nicks, cuts or damage.
(2) Clean injection pump mounting flange at gear
housing. Also clean front of injection pump.
(3) Install new rubber o-ring into machined groove
(Fig. 12) at pump mounting area.
(4) Apply clean engine oil to injection pump
o-ring only.
The machined tapers on both injection pump
shaft and injection pump gear must be absolutely
dry, clean and free of any dirt or oil film.
This will ensure proper gear-to-shaft tightening.
(5) Clean pump gear and pump shaft at machined
tapers with an evaporative type cleaner such as
brake cleaner.
(6) Position injection pump to mounting flange on
gear housing while aligning injection pump shaft
through back of injection pump gear.
(7) After pump is positioned flat to mounting
flange, install 3 pump mounting nuts and tighten
finger tight only. Do not attempt a final tightening
at this time. Do not attempt to tighten (pull)
pump to gear housing using mounting nuts.
Damage to pump or gear cover may occur. The
pump must be positioned flat to its mounting
flange before attempting to tighten 3 mounting
nuts.
(8) To prevent damage or cracking of components,
install and tighten nuts in the following sequence:
(a) Install injection pump shaft washer and nut
to pump shaft. Tighten nut finger tight only.
(b) Do preliminary (light) tightening of injection
pump shaft nut.
(c) Tighten 3 injection pump mounting nuts to
24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.).
(d) Do a final tightening of pump shaft nut to
105 N·m (77 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install drive gear access cover (plate) using a
3/8” drive ratchet. Plate is threaded to timing gear
cover. Tighten to 8 N·m (71 in. lbs.) torque.
(10) Install fuel line (injection pump-to-pressure
limiting valve). Tighten bolts to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(11) Install fuel line (injection pump-to-fuel rail).
(a) Tighten fitting at fuel pump to 37 N·m (27 ft.
lbs.) torque. Use a back-up wrench.
(b) Tighten fitting at fuel rail to 37 N·m (27 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(12) Install fuel line (injection pump-to-fuel filter
housing). Tighten to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Connect Fuel Control Actuator (FCA) electrical
connector to rear of injection pump.
(14) Install intake manifold air intake tube (above
injection pump). Tighten clamps.
(15) Install accessory drive belt.
(16) Install cooling fan shroud.
(17) Install cooling fan assembly.
(18) Connect both negative battery cables to both
batteries.
(19) Check system for fuel or engine oil leaks.
If you need more, let me know.
02-26-2010, 10:32 PM
#5
Administrator/Jarhead
I wish I could have talked to me a few years back, too!!! I'd probably be a lot better off than I am now, truck and life!!!!!
I'm here for the diesel community, if you need it, let me know.
I'm here for the diesel community, if you need it, let me know.
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03-11-2010, 04:34 PM
#9
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What you need is to use that TA and get your self a degree and go to MECEP, get paid more every week rather than every 4 years! Or go the route I am trying to go and join the Chair Force as an officer. Get paid and live skate!
03-11-2010, 09:57 PM
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Your a fool to stay enlisted if you plan on doing 20 +. Learn what you need to learn as enlisted and move on to be an officer. It will help you to understand what your troops are going through and thinking, and over all make you a better leader. Becoming an officer not only pays you much more, and gives a VERY cush retirment, but your in a place to actually make changes, rather then just being an advisor.
Also think of this. An O-3 over 4 makes more than an E-8 over 22. You do the math.
If your dead set on staying enlisted at least do your self the justice of utilizing the TA and get a degree. I maxed mine out and used a little Top-up and got my Bachelors in three years during my second enlistment.
Also think of this. An O-3 over 4 makes more than an E-8 over 22. You do the math.
If your dead set on staying enlisted at least do your self the justice of utilizing the TA and get a degree. I maxed mine out and used a little Top-up and got my Bachelors in three years during my second enlistment.
03-11-2010, 11:31 PM
#14
Administrator/Jarhead
You know, I almost got into a fight with some dude (that got out as a Sgt 10 years ago) in Lowe's for saying something along those lines to me about 2 weeks ago. Maybe in your opinion someone is a 'fool', but if they are happy with what they are doing, and it is supporting their family, then it's good for them. I'd rather be happy as a SgtMaj making 5k a month, than ticked off as a boot Lt or Capt making 5900 a month.
That stuff is not for everyone.
That stuff is not for everyone.
03-11-2010, 11:33 PM
#15
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Sadly enough that boot Lt is still going to be your boss. If you want to be incharge the zero side is the only way to go. And that same Lt or Capt is going to be making 100k a year when it comes time to retire as a Major.