OldSmokey

Ive got a four toplinks just sitting around the shop, and i was just wondering if using these as control arms would work. (If i could find some bushings) The control arms in the skyjacker rockready kits look a lot like these. Here is a link for some pics of what Im talking about. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...5631_200315631

Cowhand

No reason why you couldn't.....if you really wanted to.

As long as the length matches.....I'd also recommend verifying the wall thickness and type of tube. If it's anything less than a .120 wall, I'd personally shy away from it. I'd also be wary of those heims.....I pay more for 1 heim than they're charging for the whole arm.

Heims on both ends will also transmit alot of NVH up through the frame.

I had Skyjunker's single flex arms on my truck before I did the RA's, they were "designed" for this application. They turned out to be the root of many of the suspension issues I had.

ptgarcia

Hey Cowhand, what does NVH stand for? I've seen it before and didn't know what it meant.

btolenti

N = Noise
V = Vibration
H = Harshness

ptgarcia

Right on....thanks.

THURENfab.

I agree with everything posted above...

Also, finding the correct spacers to work with te OE hardware could cost more than the arms.

A heim joint made for the space shuttle may "look" just like one made for a lawn mower...

OldSmokey

Are the heims the ball joint at the end of the arms?

cquestad

Cutting/sizing spacers is NOT fun. Had to run around that for a bit till I dialed in my traction bars.

Two band saw blades later...I gave up and lathed the rest. LOL.

I would not "custom" build any or the more important locations...like CA's.

Those hiem joints will have a little slop in them...and wear fast. Maybe ok for a traction bar...but not for the precsion of a control arm.

Cowhand

Exactly.....and as far as heims go, you get what you pay for. Like I said, I pay a little more than that arm costs for one 3/4"X3/4" heim (my cost, which may not necessarily be your cost )......and you'd need 8.

OldSmokey

Ok thanks guys you probably saved me lots of headaces. If i want a five inch lift in the end where would be the best place to get some adjustable arms or would i be better off waiting and buying some that are not adjustable?

cquestad

The "hard" parts from a tough country 4.5-5" lift are hard to beat pricewise. They hold up if installed correctly. Combine that klift with good springs and shocks and you will be happy. I have 100k on mine...with NO alignment adjustment or ride quality problems.

There are much more expensive options as well.

ptgarcia

Hey cquestad,

I hear the arms for the Tuff Country lift, and others, get bent pretty easily. Have you had any issues like that with yours? Could you sleeve the Tuff Country arms to strengthen them?

Cowhand

There's really no need for adjustable arms. You can get plenty of caster out of the factory cam bolts...

cquestad

I can't bend the Tuff Country arms...so I am not really sure who could or did.

But...as I have been reminded before...I might be a wuss.

They are 1/4" wall...can't tell if they are tube or schedule 40 pipe, but they are stought enough. I have plenty of caster adjustment...with the stock cam bolts as Cowhand said.

Unless you want to step up to a BOMBPROOF radiue arm design...I see NO need to spend more than I did for the correct length conrol arms with good poly bushings.

I drilled in greese zerts about 20k ago...I would do that right away on the next one.

Back to the bending...I have had the truck up in the air with an arm on a rock, hit the pavement hard launching with 575 hp, and even screwed up once...had a hydraulic ram fail on one of my forklifts while was swapping out shocks and dropped the truck on a "out of the way" jack stand that happened to hit the crontrol arm and have not done more than scratch the powder coat. I have held the BDS arms and they look great too.

ptgarcia

Cool, thanks for the reply. I asked mainly for others interested in the arms. I'm holding out for Don's radius arms.