tired of getting stuck
#1
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tired of getting stuck
I am tired of getting this truck stuck I am currently running BFG TKO tread and burried it clear to the axles today. Had to get pulled out by a Cat wheel loader. Dose anybody have any ideas what can be added to the differentials to make it more stick resistant. I dont realy wont any rougher tires
#2
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The rear "Should" already have the posi type unit instlled. The front will be open. I have not looked in a while but I think the ARB air lockers are about all that is available for these axles. I'm sure there may be others by now but the ARB's would be nice.
You may still need to change to a slightly more aggressive tire though. All the lockers in the world will only go as far as your tires will take you!
What type of terrain are you getting stuck in?
You may still need to change to a slightly more aggressive tire though. All the lockers in the world will only go as far as your tires will take you!
What type of terrain are you getting stuck in?
#3
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Don't forget the fact that these trucks, as do all newer heavy duty trucks, are freaking HEAVY!! The fact that us Cummins fans have well over a thousand pounds of engine on the frontend is a big factor.
Personally, I think all heavy duty trucks should have, at minimum, a posi unit in both the front and rear diffs.
Personally, I think all heavy duty trucks should have, at minimum, a posi unit in both the front and rear diffs.
#4
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Any type of soft ground I spend 95% of the time on ashplat 4% on hard pack its that 1% that gets me every time I set a wheel into it. I seen a gear type locker would that work in the front axle
#5
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Try dropping the air pressure down for the off trail running. Trial and error to find the best traction vs. handling. Don't forget to pump 'em back up BEFORE you hit the hard top.
#6
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Nothing affects traction more than tires. They are the key to not getting stuck. The Terra Grapplers have an agressive looking tread, but don't seem to enjoy a good reputation. Maybe a differant M/S tire would work better.
The rear axle is usually a limited slip design. And a key not there is not No Slip, but Limited slip. It uses a worm gear design, which usually works well.
If the diff has a lot of miles, it might need an adjustment, to improve the torque bias.
Work gears are a little bit differant in operation than a clutch pack design. If you put one wheel in the air - or on snow, mud, ice - then all the power goes to that wheel, and none to the wheel with traction. Riding the brake pedal a little bit can often get you moving again .
The front axle is a differant story. It's an open design only from the factory. No option for LSD in the front. I have been told that a worm gear will work in the front, but I don't know anybody who's tried it. An air locker looks like a good option, but that has it's troubles, too.
The rear axle is usually a limited slip design. And a key not there is not No Slip, but Limited slip. It uses a worm gear design, which usually works well.
If the diff has a lot of miles, it might need an adjustment, to improve the torque bias.
Work gears are a little bit differant in operation than a clutch pack design. If you put one wheel in the air - or on snow, mud, ice - then all the power goes to that wheel, and none to the wheel with traction. Riding the brake pedal a little bit can often get you moving again .
The front axle is a differant story. It's an open design only from the factory. No option for LSD in the front. I have been told that a worm gear will work in the front, but I don't know anybody who's tried it. An air locker looks like a good option, but that has it's troubles, too.
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#10
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#11
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Wide tires and all wheel drive are your only hope. I just had a cement truck in my yard and it was a bit soft. The truck weighs about 70,000 pounds and rides on very wide tires. If the ground is too soft I have seen them sink right in though.
At least with a poor traction tire you will spin. With good traction in muck you will dig right down. If there's a bottom to the mud great, if not you'll sink until the frame and axles hold you up.
At least with a poor traction tire you will spin. With good traction in muck you will dig right down. If there's a bottom to the mud great, if not you'll sink until the frame and axles hold you up.
#12
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The factory no-slip simply slips and is a POS. Dodge lost it when they changed from Dana 70 & 80 in 2003 models. Go with air or electric lockers front and rear. Simply turn them on and off to turn corners in slippery ground. JHenson hit the nail on the head - you have 1000lbs of cast iron up front. Try an old Suzuki Samurai or 49 ****** and see the difference.
#13
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Ive drove the old Army jeeps and hummvs I dont believe I could ever achive that level of traction, but this thing is like driving to drive on soild ice up a 99% grade.
#14
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The front axle on my truck weighs 4400 lbs. You won't push the front end around in 2 wheel drive. Then 4 wheel drive is actually 3 wheels spinning so you're still dragging a 2200 pound anchor.
Wide tires, a locker and you'll do better.
Wide tires, a locker and you'll do better.
#15
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Glad you posted.
Im running stock tires and can get stuck in 1 inch of mud.
Letting air out helps a lot but my little cig lighter compresser takes forever to refil them.
Im running stock tires and can get stuck in 1 inch of mud.
Letting air out helps a lot but my little cig lighter compresser takes forever to refil them.
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