RenegadeT

Any secrets on getting the timing pin to drop in during IP removal? I am spinning the alternator nut with one hand and reaching around pressing the pin, it doesnt seem to want to drop in anywhere. I've spun the crank at least 2 revolutions. I'm pulling the pump for a teardown, so I guess I can always pin it once the pump is out, just wondering if there's something else I could try.

satburn

What is it, National Pump Gear Day? LOL...

The pins do get hard to push in and you can't get much leverage on them due to the location. Sometimes you can get it to slide in by wiggling it. I've used a small persuasion stick to get it to go (no warranty on that suggestion). If you're taking it off, I'd just re-time it on re-install, unless you don't have the tools to do it.

clutch1

pull the pin out and look for the hole with a light and a mirror or use a screwdriver in the hole if your by yourself. its alot faster, pull no.1 valve cover and watch for TDC or when the valves get loose then look for the hole

diesel don

What you can do is once you find TDC is to draw a line on the leading edge of the pick up sensor over the harmonic balancer. Then you can rotate the engine so the line is at 6 o'clock go under the truck, then take a ***** punch to mark it, than any time you want to check or change timing all you do is take off the valve cover for #1 cyl. and when you see the intake valve opening you coming up on the right cycle, not 180 degrees out.

RenegadeT

Its looking like I'll be pulling the #1 valve cover. But I'm stubborn and don't want to be defeated by this stupid pin...how do I get that pin out? I have the IP pump off, and still can't get the pin in the hole. Now I tried to remove the pin by taking out the 2 torx screws, of course the near one stripped. A last ditch effort of dremelling a slot and using a flathead screwdriver failed. In frustration, I was ready to cut the head off, but I just called it a night. Any suggestions?

infidel

Use the pin on the side of the pump when you're pulling the pump not the one on the back, that's what it's for.
The side pin is under a hex head cap. Remove the cap, pull the pin out and turn it around. When it slips down into it's notch replace the cap. Pump can't move during removal or transport.

RenegadeT

OK, a little late for me now. I got the pump rebuilt, its already locked. I need to get my engine to TDC. Isnt that what the pin in my picture is for? I'll be pulling the valve cover now anyways, then timing the whole mess after the pump is installed.

infidel

Neither pin should be trusted for setting timing, they are well proven to be up to 3° off.

Jim Lane

Since you already cut a slot into the bolt head, try to remove it with a hand impact driver, When you smack the driver on the end it will drive the screwdriver bit deep into the slot while it rotates the bolt out, or in.
You could also try a small sharp chisel of the edge if it and back it out but be careful you do not mess up the pin housing.
There is an o-ring around the pin that helps it from falling out of its housing.
Once you get it loose, clean it up then lube it. I used STP on the o-ring since I had it there while I was working on my pump.
Jim


http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes

RenegadeT

Good thinking. I've had that impact tool for over 10 years and barely used it until I bought this truck (September). I finally got the timing pin housing out. While turning the alternator nut, I was able to find the timing hole with my finger. Will that be close enough to install the IP, get the truck running, and drive it to a shop with the tools, so they can fine tune the timing?

I was surprised how tight the timing pin is housing, but at least I have a visual of how it works. I also put mark on the vibration damper for future reference