berner

I'm going to check/set my timing tomorrow and need to know if my homemade puller is going to work. Does anybody know the timing gear puller bolt spacing? It'd save me from pulling the oiltube off and re-installing it if I had to run out and buy something else.
Thanks

Jim Fulmer

Berner, it only takes 5 minutes to take the oil filler off, a normal puller should work but the puller in a timing kit works better, I bought just the kit's puller from Snap-On.

Jim

berner

Thanks Jim

I've had it off before when I tabbed my KDP. I've got a 1/4"X1" piece of flatbar with holes drilled thru that I've used to pull older style steering wheels. Going to see if that will work.

I ordered a D valve socket from a Snap-On guy in town; took over a month for him to get it to me. God knows how long it'd take to get a puller. This is the 2nd guy I've gotten crappy service from. Going to order direct from Snap-On's website from now on.

infidel

Good luck but I think your 1/4'' bar will bend before the gear pops unless it's tempered steel. Those suckers are on good, I've had some sound like a gun shot when they pop.

berner

Thanks for the heads-up, Bill. The gear has been loosened twice in the last year when 2 different shops have set the timing. Hopefully my homemade puller will work. I've got a balancer puller I'm hoping will fit in the space between the motor and the rad if it doesn't.

MnTom

You had the timing set TWICE last year?? What is up with that?

BBWD

Infidel:

Is it a good idea to clean the shaft with brake cleaner before re-torquing the gear on the shaft to prevent the gear from slipping?

John (DH)

tmiller24

I haven't done my timing yet but I heard that a steering wheel puller is the critter that works best. Bought one at NAPA several years ago that has to be more than beefy enough.

berner

I had it set to 15.5 at one shop. Ran great, little smoke. 6 months later it was smoking a blue/white haze when cold. I checked for boost leaks, nothing. I didn't want to go back to the first shop because the guy tried to sell me some 60HP injectors to go along with my stock auto and guages for $600. Took it to another shop. The guy there said the timing had slipped to 12 and set it to 16. Three months later it's smokey again, he wants rebuild my injectors for $65/ea + tax if I carry them in.
I just got in from the garage. The timing is at 19. I checked and rechecked. Did the drop-down valve method again to check my TDC. Checked my new dial guage against my dial caliper. The timing is definately at 19 (5.5mm). Almost looks like the guy used the 215 pump chart.
My homemade puller is too small and my balancer puller is too big. Guess I gotta spring for a puller. Not all was in vain. It was good finding out my magnetic base and dial indicator will work to set the timing.

infidel

John, it's essential to clean the gear and shaft thoroughly with brake cleaner then air blow, then do it again. An oily shaft may be the reason berner's timing slipped.

berner

Can timing slip "up" ie. more advance? I think the last guy used a light on it because the balancer had 2 marks, one at TDC and the other one I measured at about 11.5*. I'm trying to figure out why this guy's mark was at 11.5 and the timing is at 19. If you time with a light and a weak #1 injector, is fuel going to flow at a lower pump pressure (less D-Valve lift)? This is the only thing I can come up with to explain the 19* timing. The mark at 11.5 I'll chock up to the guy not knowing what he was doing.

How is 19* going to affect how the truck runs with the mods I've got? Just wondering because Piers told me not to go much over 15.5. I do have a good second of lag from idle. Thanks for the help, BTW.

MnTom

Your truck is set up pretty much like mine. I set mine at 5.1mm lift on the plunger. From what I can figure out, it should be at 16.5*. It seems to do pretty good there, although I don't think you would want to go any higher unless you were dumping in lots and lots of fuel.
Tom

infidel

19° isn't going to hurt anything, it just matters if you can live with it. At much more than 16.5 the engine can get hard to start and smoke more at cold start-up. It will also run louder.

kd460

So, when you pop the gear loose with the puller, can you get the brake cleaner in there without completely removing the gear? Like moving it around with your fingers and praying in the taper with a the straw or something? Do you have to remove the nut or just loosen it?

Also when the gear is locked by the dowel pin and the pump is locked by the pump pin, which way do you turn the crank to advance? Counterclockwise right? (opposite normal rotation)

Finally, any tricks to holding everything still while tourqing the pump gear nut? (preventing it from turning) Or is this not a big deal? Thanks, Kevin

berner

It always starts on the 3rd crank. Loud doesn't bug me. That's what I have a radio for. The burn-your-eyes blue/white haze is sort of embarassing though.

You don't lock the timing gear or the pump with the pins. You set your delivery valve lift height where you want it by turning the crank, pull the gear, rotate the crank CCW a bit then CW to TDC to remove the backlash. Then tighten the gear up. You hold it with the barring tool when you tighten it up.