Timing Gear Puller
#1
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Timing Gear Puller
I'm going to check/set my timing tomorrow and need to know if my homemade puller is going to work. Does anybody know the timing gear puller bolt spacing? It'd save me from pulling the oiltube off and re-installing it if I had to run out and buy something else.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
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Berner, it only takes 5 minutes to take the oil filler off, a normal puller should work but the puller in a timing kit works better, I bought just the kit's puller from Snap-On.
Jim
Jim
#3
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Thanks Jim
I've had it off before when I tabbed my KDP. I've got a 1/4"X1" piece of flatbar with holes drilled thru that I've used to pull older style steering wheels. Going to see if that will work.
I ordered a D valve socket from a Snap-On guy in town; took over a month for him to get it to me. God knows how long it'd take to get a puller. This is the 2nd guy I've gotten crappy service from. Going to order direct from Snap-On's website from now on.
I've had it off before when I tabbed my KDP. I've got a 1/4"X1" piece of flatbar with holes drilled thru that I've used to pull older style steering wheels. Going to see if that will work.
I ordered a D valve socket from a Snap-On guy in town; took over a month for him to get it to me. God knows how long it'd take to get a puller. This is the 2nd guy I've gotten crappy service from. Going to order direct from Snap-On's website from now on.
#4
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Good luck but I think your 1/4'' bar will bend before the gear pops unless it's tempered steel. Those suckers are on good, I've had some sound like a gun shot when they pop.
#5
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Thanks for the heads-up, Bill. The gear has been loosened twice in the last year when 2 different shops have set the timing. Hopefully my homemade puller will work. I've got a balancer puller I'm hoping will fit in the space between the motor and the rad if it doesn't.
#7
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Originally posted by infidel
Good luck but I think your 1/4'' bar will bend before the gear pops unless it's tempered steel. Those suckers are on good, I've had some sound like a gun shot when they pop.
Good luck but I think your 1/4'' bar will bend before the gear pops unless it's tempered steel. Those suckers are on good, I've had some sound like a gun shot when they pop.
Is it a good idea to clean the shaft with brake cleaner before re-torquing the gear on the shaft to prevent the gear from slipping?
John (DH)
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#8
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I haven't done my timing yet but I heard that a steering wheel puller is the critter that works best. Bought one at NAPA several years ago that has to be more than beefy enough.
#9
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Originally posted by MnTom
You had the timing set TWICE last year?? What is up with that?
You had the timing set TWICE last year?? What is up with that?
I just got in from the garage. The timing is at 19. I checked and rechecked. Did the drop-down valve method again to check my TDC. Checked my new dial guage against my dial caliper. The timing is definately at 19 (5.5mm). Almost looks like the guy used the 215 pump chart.
My homemade puller is too small and my balancer puller is too big. Guess I gotta spring for a puller. Not all was in vain. It was good finding out my magnetic base and dial indicator will work to set the timing.
#10
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Originally posted by BBWD
Infidel:
Is it a good idea to clean the shaft with brake cleaner before re-torquing the gear on the shaft to prevent the gear from slipping?
John (DH)
Infidel:
Is it a good idea to clean the shaft with brake cleaner before re-torquing the gear on the shaft to prevent the gear from slipping?
John (DH)
#11
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Thread Starter
Originally posted by infidel
John, it's essential to clean the gear and shaft thoroughly with brake cleaner then air blow, then do it again. An oily shaft may be the reason berner's timing slipped.
John, it's essential to clean the gear and shaft thoroughly with brake cleaner then air blow, then do it again. An oily shaft may be the reason berner's timing slipped.
How is 19* going to affect how the truck runs with the mods I've got? Just wondering because Piers told me not to go much over 15.5. I do have a good second of lag from idle. Thanks for the help, BTW.
#12
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Your truck is set up pretty much like mine. I set mine at 5.1mm lift on the plunger. From what I can figure out, it should be at 16.5*. It seems to do pretty good there, although I don't think you would want to go any higher unless you were dumping in lots and lots of fuel.
Tom
Tom
#13
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19° isn't going to hurt anything, it just matters if you can live with it. At much more than 16.5 the engine can get hard to start and smoke more at cold start-up. It will also run louder.
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So, when you pop the gear loose with the puller, can you get the brake cleaner in there without completely removing the gear? Like moving it around with your fingers and praying in the taper with a the straw or something? Do you have to remove the nut or just loosen it?
Also when the gear is locked by the dowel pin and the pump is locked by the pump pin, which way do you turn the crank to advance? Counterclockwise right? (opposite normal rotation)
Finally, any tricks to holding everything still while tourqing the pump gear nut? (preventing it from turning) Or is this not a big deal? Thanks, Kevin
Also when the gear is locked by the dowel pin and the pump is locked by the pump pin, which way do you turn the crank to advance? Counterclockwise right? (opposite normal rotation)
Finally, any tricks to holding everything still while tourqing the pump gear nut? (preventing it from turning) Or is this not a big deal? Thanks, Kevin
#15
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Originally posted by infidel
19° isn't going to hurt anything, it just matters if you can live with it. At much more than 16.5 the engine can get hard to start and smoke more at cold start-up. It will also run louder.
19° isn't going to hurt anything, it just matters if you can live with it. At much more than 16.5 the engine can get hard to start and smoke more at cold start-up. It will also run louder.
Originally posted by kd460
Also when the gear is locked by the dowel pin and the pump is locked by the pump pin, which way do you turn the crank to advance? Counterclockwise right? (opposite normal rotation)
Finally, any tricks to holding everything still while tourqing the pump gear nut? (preventing it from turning) Or is this not a big deal? Thanks, Kevin
Also when the gear is locked by the dowel pin and the pump is locked by the pump pin, which way do you turn the crank to advance? Counterclockwise right? (opposite normal rotation)
Finally, any tricks to holding everything still while tourqing the pump gear nut? (preventing it from turning) Or is this not a big deal? Thanks, Kevin