Ticking Fuel Line?
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Ticking Fuel Line?
So I have had white smoke probs. for a while now and have had a ticking noise near my fuel tank as well. This morning I crawled under the truck to locate the tick and felt the fuel line and could feel the pulse/ tick in it. It was ticking the most where the line goes into the tank.
What would cause that? It is a pretty hard tap too, so I imagine that is part of my mpg and smoke prob?
Any suggestions?
What would cause that? It is a pretty hard tap too, so I imagine that is part of my mpg and smoke prob?
Any suggestions?
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So I have had white smoke probs. for a while now and have had a ticking noise near my fuel tank as well. This morning I crawled under the truck to locate the tick and felt the fuel line and could feel the pulse/ tick in it. It was ticking the most where the line goes into the tank.
What would cause that? It is a pretty hard tap too, so I imagine that is part of my mpg and smoke prob?
Any suggestions?
What would cause that? It is a pretty hard tap too, so I imagine that is part of my mpg and smoke prob?
Any suggestions?
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Actually I'm running ritch, atleast the exhaust smells ritch but no black smoke.
I just replaced my fuel filter a few min. ago and it seemed a little better. What about the screen inside the tank, if it was stopped up would it tick?
My fuel lines are original too, 178k on the clock so I know I need new, but no one around here has the diesel line.
The tick is pretty bad where it goes into the tank @ the connector. It sounds like one of those paint sprayers people use to paint a house with if that helps
I never have probs at start up though, so is that air or the lift pump?
I just replaced my fuel filter a few min. ago and it seemed a little better. What about the screen inside the tank, if it was stopped up would it tick?
My fuel lines are original too, 178k on the clock so I know I need new, but no one around here has the diesel line.
The tick is pretty bad where it goes into the tank @ the connector. It sounds like one of those paint sprayers people use to paint a house with if that helps
I never have probs at start up though, so is that air or the lift pump?
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The ticking is excess fuel chattering past the overflow valve. It sounds like it's back near the tank. It's the tight string and two coffee can type thing if you know what I mean.
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Even if it's the overflow, does that mean it's bad? And if the overflow is bad does that mean that excess fuel is staying in the pump causing the ritch smell in my exhaust?
I don't totaly understand the concept of the cummins fuel delivery and if I did it might help me pinpoint my issue.
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Actually I'm running ritch, atleast the exhaust smells ritch but no black smoke.
I just replaced my fuel filter a few min. ago and it seemed a little better. What about the screen inside the tank, if it was stopped up would it tick?
My fuel lines are original too, 178k on the clock so I know I need new, but no one around here has the diesel line.
The tick is pretty bad where it goes into the tank @ the connector. It sounds like one of those paint sprayers people use to paint a house with if that helps
I never have probs at start up though, so is that air or the lift pump?
I just replaced my fuel filter a few min. ago and it seemed a little better. What about the screen inside the tank, if it was stopped up would it tick?
My fuel lines are original too, 178k on the clock so I know I need new, but no one around here has the diesel line.
The tick is pretty bad where it goes into the tank @ the connector. It sounds like one of those paint sprayers people use to paint a house with if that helps
I never have probs at start up though, so is that air or the lift pump?
Every 12v I've heard does it...
Check the OFV - buy a new one from Cummins...
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What size studs do I use for that lp?
When replacing the lp, is it similar to a mechanical fuel pump on a gasser with an ecentric, or is it gear driven?
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2 @ 8mm x 30mm x 1.25 pitch
2 @ 8mm lockwashers
2 @ 8mm x 1.25 pitch nuts
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ift+pump+studs
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I got my l.p. and overflow in from PDI today (I ordered it on fri. I'm happy) I already put the overflow in tonight and the ticking/ pulsing got much better.
I was compairing the old OV with the new and the old one you could see the ball more through the hole than the new one. It also looked like the spring fit over the ball better on the new one. The truck seemed to run smoother when I drove it around the block.
So now on to the LP, any quick tips?
I think I'm gonna jump on it tomorrow as the rest of my week is gonna be buisy.
I was compairing the old OV with the new and the old one you could see the ball more through the hole than the new one. It also looked like the spring fit over the ball better on the new one. The truck seemed to run smoother when I drove it around the block.
So now on to the LP, any quick tips?
I think I'm gonna jump on it tomorrow as the rest of my week is gonna be buisy.
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LP....
Use studs
I go at it buy removing the starter (i have long arms). Some folks remove the tire and plastic wheel well.The fittings are awkward to get at to say the least. would be a 15 minute job with the engine out. be patient Careful not to drop plunger into engine when you pull the old unit out. ( just one strait out motion) it's up against the cam so it cant fall out unless you try to take it out on an angle. I put PST on the pipe threads. Not to much fuel will leak out when you disconnect it, it's surprising.
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It should start better too.
LP....
Use studs
I go at it buy removing the starter (i have long arms). Some folks remove the tire and plastic wheel well.The fittings are awkward to get at to say the least. would be a 15 minute job with the engine out. be patient Careful not to drop plunger into engine when you pull the old unit out. ( just one strait out motion) it's up against the cam so it cant fall out unless you try to take it out on an angle. I put PST on the pipe threads. Not to much fuel will leak out when you disconnect it, it's surprising.
LP....
Use studs
I go at it buy removing the starter (i have long arms). Some folks remove the tire and plastic wheel well.The fittings are awkward to get at to say the least. would be a 15 minute job with the engine out. be patient Careful not to drop plunger into engine when you pull the old unit out. ( just one strait out motion) it's up against the cam so it cant fall out unless you try to take it out on an angle. I put PST on the pipe threads. Not to much fuel will leak out when you disconnect it, it's surprising.